Transmission Replacement
04-19-2013, 01:18 AM
#31
Nordschleife Master
Colin,
Specifics on the bold type issue(s) so I can put right.
I was thinking of a brake job I did recently on another one of my vehicles, and was so wrapped up with the order of operations of this job which is new to me, I didn't take the appropriate steps with the caliper removal issue - don't ask me what I was thinking for it was offline. Hopefully will not be so irrevocable to make right.
Thanks,
Craig
Specifics on the bold type issue(s) so I can put right.
I was thinking of a brake job I did recently on another one of my vehicles, and was so wrapped up with the order of operations of this job which is new to me, I didn't take the appropriate steps with the caliper removal issue - don't ask me what I was thinking for it was offline. Hopefully will not be so irrevocable to make right.
Thanks,
Craig
But before you install, put the caliper in the freezer overnight.
Then install bolts, and torque to spec (cannot recall what spec is). Let it rise back up to temp, and reinstall.
04-19-2013, 01:25 AM
#32
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Quite a novelle sequence.
Regarding the bolts, a highly rated carbon steel bolt no doubt - any specific plating such as zinc or cadmium for the brake caliper application ?
04-19-2013, 02:45 PM
#35
Former Sponsor
If there are seals between the two caliper pieces....they will be flat and need to be replaced, most likely.
The "early" 911 calipers and the 914 caliper had a "square cross section" seal ring, which I actually had to have made...
The "early" 911 calipers and the 914 caliper had a "square cross section" seal ring, which I actually had to have made...
04-19-2013, 09:56 PM
#36
Nordschleife Master
Greg,
He only removed 2 of I believe 4 bolts before realising his error.
So he should be OK with just replacing and properly torquing the bolts.
Do you know the torque spec on the through caliper bolts?
He only removed 2 of I believe 4 bolts before realising his error.
So he should be OK with just replacing and properly torquing the bolts.
Do you know the torque spec on the through caliper bolts?
04-19-2013, 10:33 PM
#37
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Greg, Thanks for the input. Received the transmission today. Would you happen to know the torque values ? No work on car today. With daughter going to open houses for college.
04-19-2013, 11:08 PM
#38
Former Sponsor
10mm 8.8 hardness.....32 ft.lbs.
10mm 10.9 hardness.....48 ft. lbs.
10mm 12.9 hardness.....62 ft.lbs.
Although the bolts are going into aluminum, Brembo is going to have tightened them so that the stretched some....I'd think you should start at 48 ft. lbs. and see how they torque. If the bolts are 12mm....I'll have to re-think this, a bit.
04-19-2013, 11:16 PM
#39
Nordschleife Master
they are M10 bolts, for sure.
Put the caliper in the freezer overnight,
then torque to say 50 ft lbs, use some high heat loctite on the threads of the bolts.
Put the caliper in the freezer overnight,
then torque to say 50 ft lbs, use some high heat loctite on the threads of the bolts.
04-19-2013, 11:19 PM
#40
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
No one will have that specification.....except Brembo.....and getting that information is hopeless. Here's what I do know: (I think the bolts are 10mm.....never had one out.)
10mm 8.8 hardness.....32 ft.lbs.
10mm 10.9 hardness.....48 ft. lbs.
10mm 12.9 hardness.....62 ft.lbs.
Although the bolts are going into aluminum, Brembo is going to have tightened them so that the stretched some....I'd think you should start at 48 ft. lbs. and see how they torque. If the bolts are 12mm....I'll have to re-think this, a bit.
10mm 8.8 hardness.....32 ft.lbs.
10mm 10.9 hardness.....48 ft. lbs.
10mm 12.9 hardness.....62 ft.lbs.
Although the bolts are going into aluminum, Brembo is going to have tightened them so that the stretched some....I'd think you should start at 48 ft. lbs. and see how they torque. If the bolts are 12mm....I'll have to re-think this, a bit.
There are two 8mm and two 10mm bolts. I have access to a great hardware shop up here and I planned on getting 10.9 carbon steel/zinc plated.
Is this a good choice ?
04-28-2013, 03:12 PM
#42
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Guys,
Have a question. Probably an obvious answer (and I think i know what it is), but as it is the first time on this job I wanted to ask the Forum first.
In the process of dissecting the connections to the original transmission prior to removing it. In the center of the image attached there is an electrical connection to the ATF line. Does one remove the nut to detach the electrical connection, or does the electrical connection just pull out ? I couldn't find any descriptions of this electrical connection on any of the 722 manuals (or WSM) I have.
Thanks in Advance.
Craig
Add: Rennlist is acting up again - I can't upload the image. It is a single black electrical cable through a large nut on the aft end of the ATF line union to the transmission on the L side. The connection is just under the shift linkage arm.
Have a question. Probably an obvious answer (and I think i know what it is), but as it is the first time on this job I wanted to ask the Forum first.
In the process of dissecting the connections to the original transmission prior to removing it. In the center of the image attached there is an electrical connection to the ATF line. Does one remove the nut to detach the electrical connection, or does the electrical connection just pull out ? I couldn't find any descriptions of this electrical connection on any of the 722 manuals (or WSM) I have.
Thanks in Advance.
Craig
Add: Rennlist is acting up again - I can't upload the image. It is a single black electrical cable through a large nut on the aft end of the ATF line union to the transmission on the L side. The connection is just under the shift linkage arm.
04-28-2013, 03:22 PM
#43
Rennlist Member
I think you are referring to the transmission fluid temperature switch. I don't think the connection is removable at the switch. There is a banjo bolt that holds the fluid line and switch fitting to the transmission. Remove the banjo bolt and the line will be free. No need to remove the switch. You will need to anneal the copper sealing washers for the banjo bolt and fitting before re-installing the bolt (unless of course you buy new.)
Mike
Mike
04-28-2013, 03:32 PM
#44
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
I think you are referring to the transmission fluid temperature switch. I don't think the connection is removable at the switch. There is a banjo bolt that holds the fluid line and switch fitting to the transmission. Remove the banjo bolt and the line will be free. No need to remove the switch. You will need to anneal the copper sealing washers for the banjo bolt and fitting before re-installing the bolt (unless of course you buy new.)
Mike
Mike
Thanks.
I see now if the black electrical line is not attached to the transmission. I tried tracing the wire, but it was lost to the top of the transmission while it is still up.
I am installing one of Greg's 'new' units. What does annealing entail if need be ?
Thanks again.
Craig
04-28-2013, 03:45 PM
#45
Rennlist Member
Slip the washers onto a screwdriver or other suitable rod. Heat with a torch until red hot, then drop into water. Annealing will remove the work hardening that occurs when the washer is crushed during tightening and return the copper to it's soft state. Now the washer can be re-used as it will crush some more when re-installed.
Mike
Mike