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85 Euro re-build thread

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Old 10-08-2012, 12:12 AM
  #61  
James Bailey
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The USA 4.7 block lacks the hole for the crank timing sensor.....as I recall.
Old 10-08-2012, 04:24 PM
  #62  
AO
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Originally Posted by James Bailey
The USA 4.7 block lacks the hole for the crank timing sensor.....as I recall.
I think you are right. Hacker did something to convert his boosted car to run the LH2.2 and EZ-F. He approached it for the opposite direction. He has a 4.7 US and added the euro stuff on top. I have the euro stuff and will be adding a US block. The end result will be the same.

Time to give him a call.
Old 10-08-2012, 06:37 PM
  #63  
Lizard928
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The boss is there on the 4.7L us car, just needs to be drilled out and possibly a spacer.
Old 10-08-2012, 06:50 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by AO
well... If I want to keep it boosted (which I do) then another hi compression motor might not be a good choice. I can pick up a cheap 4.7l here for next to nothing and use the high-flow euro heads and SCer and should make some good HP. But yes, I want knock detection. Will look into the Vampire system when I get that far.
.
FYI. It's the heads that bump up the compression. The pistons are the same except for the slightly larger valve reliefs. If you use the euro heads without altering the combustion chamber size, you will still be in the same boat. I did a comparison with photo's here.
Old 10-10-2012, 06:19 AM
  #65  
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Thanks Fabio... Good information. Maybe I should reconsider movng to the E85. Lots to think about there.
Old 10-10-2012, 09:35 AM
  #66  
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Andrew, Vampire is the ticket! I run one in my twinscrew track car and I can say it works! I can adjust how much timing it takes out with each lbs of boost and it can retard up to 20 degrees based on the knock sensor that you mount in the valley. You can also have it retard all the cylinders or individual cylinder that is knocking.I also have the knock monitor so I can see when the car is knocking and how much timing is being taken out when it does,and in individual mode, which cylinder is knocking.
Old 10-10-2012, 11:49 AM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by AO
Thanks Fabio... Good information. Maybe I should reconsider movng to the E85. Lots to think about there.
You should. No more concern over detonation within reasonable (say, 30psi) limits on a stock engine.

Man I gotta get that 87 head/S3 bottom end motor together to show people. 12 or whatever CR, and boost. That would be wicked.
Old 10-10-2012, 12:15 PM
  #68  
EMan 928
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Originally Posted by OBehave
Andrew, Vampire is the ticket! I run one in my twinscrew track car and I can say it works! I can adjust how much timing it takes out with each lbs of boost and it can retard up to 20 degrees based on the knock sensor that you mount in the valley. You can also have it retard all the cylinders or individual cylinder that is knocking.I also have the knock monitor so I can see when the car is knocking and how much timing is being taken out when it does,and in individual mode, which cylinder is knocking.
Which Vampire model do you have? I think I want to get one for my 86.5 twin screw. PO put in a knock sensor.
Old 10-10-2012, 12:28 PM
  #69  
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Andrew...the car looks great. Glad to see you in to it now. Spending time with the kids is time well spent. They grow up so fast. It will feel like overnight at some point. It did me for sure.

Last edited by Dean_Fuller; 10-12-2012 at 08:10 PM.
Old 10-12-2012, 01:53 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by EMan 928
Which Vampire model do you have? I think I want to get one for my 86.5 twin screw. PO put in a knock sensor.
Eric,
J&S Electronics makes 3 systems. The Universal, The Intercepter, and The Vampire. I have The Vampire for my 85 stock ignition 32 valve engine. John at J&S is very familiar with the 928 and will put the whole system together for you. Louie Ott has the same system on his monster motor and recommends them very highly which helped to make my decision. After doing so I am more than pleased. It is simple to install and very easy to set up and use. You can adjust how much retard per lbs of boost and if you have a sharktuner,you can also datalog the amount of retard the unit is taking out so you can see if your engine is knocking and when and how much. I wouldn't run anything boosted without it. Insurance is good!
Old 10-26-2012, 10:37 AM
  #71  
EMan 928
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Originally Posted by AO
Good News and Bad News...

Thanks to Rhudy (Camboinc) for letting me drive his Panamers GTS. I also got to pop the cherry on the launch control on the car. Ohhh BABY! That car is so much fun to drive. If you have the means... I highly suggest you pick one up! It is so choice!

So Rhudy pushed me to do the leakdown test. Thanks again homo! Interestingly all the cylinders were pretty close. Between 25% and 35%. Not great, but not horrible either.

First the good news. I've finally gotten a bit of tune on it so that I can drive it around the block without it dying. I took too much out of the cranking and warmup map so it's hard to start cold, but once it starts it idles great!

The oil smoke out the tail pipe is clearly from the oil breather setup (What a cluster f***). It's plumbed to feed the output to the exhaust. I think this was done for the Texas Mile run that Ed did, but something has gone wrong with this setup and it's now just spewing oil into the exhaust. I think one of the issues is that whoever did the install used heater hose which is not rated for oil... so now they are all super soft.

My plan of attack is to remove all that stuff, cap the exhaust ports, and install a provent to control any excess crank case pressure and return any oil back to the sump (like I do on my GT). I just need to get some plugs for the heads to un-install all the mickey-mouse BS oil breather crap that's on there.

OK now the BAD NEWS!

Cylinder number 7 is badly scored! The leakdown confirmed that the loss was through the rings (or maybe the cyl wall). And many of the pistons are in really bad condition. It is clear this car was knocking really really badly. Evidence below...

Cylinder #7


Another view...


One more...


Cyl #3(?)


Cyl #6


Cyl #4


So now the decision is what to do. In my opinion, this motor is toast - but drivable for a while. It might last a week or maybe a year.

I'm thinking I will get it tuned up a bit more and fix the oil-breather crap and then drive it. Meanwhile I will source a new motor. The only thing that might be useful on this motor are the heads.

Thoughts?

Hey Andrew,

What boroscope do you have? I want to check how much carbon buildup I have on my pistons, etc?

Thanks,
Old 11-08-2012, 04:47 PM
  #72  
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So the decision has been made. I just purchased a US 4.7l motor and will use whatever I can off the Euro motor to build the US one (heads are hopefully in good shape, cams too). With the lowered compression, we should be able to crank up the boost a bit more - or at least not worry as much about detonation.

Still haven't decided on e85. Part of me wants to, but I would like to be able to drive it to SITM or other destinations and am a bit concerned about availability and range. I've got time to think about that.

I've got some concrete work in the garage that needs to be completed before I can yank the current motor, but I suspect the motor will be out by Christmas and then we will start the rebuild process.
Old 11-08-2012, 04:48 PM
  #73  
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And here is a link to the camera I used to look inside the engine.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2M-6-5Ft-USB...item20c47c65d7
Old 11-08-2012, 07:06 PM
  #74  
Charley B
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Originally Posted by AO
.....................................I've got some concrete work in the garage that needs to be completed before I can yank the current motor, .................................................
Who pissed you off now???
Old 11-08-2012, 09:02 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by AO
And here is a link to the camera I used to look inside the engine.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2M-6-5Ft-USB...item20c47c65d7
Wow, that $16 scope took those pics? I may have to forego my next 12 pack of IPA and get me one of those.


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