85 Euro re-build thread
#46
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The oil in the exhaust could be blow by from that cylinder. Looks like that piston had gravel or some foreign objects in it maybe from debris entering through spark plug hole. Gunar
#47
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#7 looks like a broken ring, but you said the leak down for all the cylinders were close. Some of the damage you see on the piston could be on the head too, some welding and resurfacing should fix it. I would just yank the motor out and start looking for a 85-86 5.0 short block.
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As for the source of the oil being blowby on #7...I don't think so... but maybe. There is a lot of white smoke from the exhaust on decel! And the oil breather stuff has oil leaks all over the place. It's got to be that crazy setup. I want to at least cap the system. If I do that then there will be no question of if it is the source of the oil in the exhaust or not.
#7 looks like a broken ring, but you said the leak down for all the cylinders were close. Some of the damage you see on the piston could be on the head too, some welding and resurfacing should fix it. I would just yank the motor out and start looking for a 85-86 5.0 short block.
Since this is an 85 Euro, I was thinking about making a hybrid as well. I know of an 85 short block that I might be able to purchase locally... or maybe I will get one from 928 Intl when/if they do another 1/2 off end of year sale.
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Good News and Bad News...
.......................
So Rhudy pushed me to do the leakdown test. Thanks again homo! Interestingly all the cylinders were pretty close. Between 25% and 35%. Not great, but not horrible either.
OK now the BAD NEWS!...................
Cylinder number 7 is badly scored! The leakdown confirmed that the loss was through the rings (or maybe the cyl wall). And many of the pistons are in really bad condition. It is clear this car was knocking really really badly. Evidence below...
So now the decision is what to do. In my opinion, this motor is toast - but drivable for a while. It might last a week or maybe a year.
I'm thinking I will get it tuned up a bit more and fix the oil-breather crap and then drive it. Meanwhile I will source a new motor. The only thing that might be useful on this motor are the heads.
Thoughts?
.......................
So Rhudy pushed me to do the leakdown test. Thanks again homo! Interestingly all the cylinders were pretty close. Between 25% and 35%. Not great, but not horrible either.
OK now the BAD NEWS!...................
Cylinder number 7 is badly scored! The leakdown confirmed that the loss was through the rings (or maybe the cyl wall). And many of the pistons are in really bad condition. It is clear this car was knocking really really badly. Evidence below...
So now the decision is what to do. In my opinion, this motor is toast - but drivable for a while. It might last a week or maybe a year.
I'm thinking I will get it tuned up a bit more and fix the oil-breather crap and then drive it. Meanwhile I will source a new motor. The only thing that might be useful on this motor are the heads.
Thoughts?
The only reason to keep it running is so the wife thinks it still is a car.
#50
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Well I don't put too much faith in the accuracy of the HF leakdown tester. It idles and runs decently. But your description of it becoming an opil pump might explain a lot...
I guess this isn't a shocker. I knew the car had issues when I got it. But part of me was hoping it wasn't this bad.
I guess this isn't a shocker. I knew the car had issues when I got it. But part of me was hoping it wasn't this bad.
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From a Mobile 1 site ......"Reading Results
No engine will have perfect sealing with zero percentage loss. Five to 10 percent loss indicates an engine in great to good running order. An engine between 10 and 20 percent can still run okay, but it’ll be time to keep an eye (or ear) on things. Above 20 percent loss and it may be time for a teardown and rebuild. Thirty percent? Major problems. The percent of leakage should also be consistent across the cylinders. Any great differences indicate a problem in that cylinder."
Like I said....it's dead.
No engine will have perfect sealing with zero percentage loss. Five to 10 percent loss indicates an engine in great to good running order. An engine between 10 and 20 percent can still run okay, but it’ll be time to keep an eye (or ear) on things. Above 20 percent loss and it may be time for a teardown and rebuild. Thirty percent? Major problems. The percent of leakage should also be consistent across the cylinders. Any great differences indicate a problem in that cylinder."
Like I said....it's dead.
#52
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Thanks James. Well I guess I now know what my path is going forward. I think i will still "tune it up" so I can drive it around a bit and have a little fun. But this winter, it will be all about sourcing and building up a new block.
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If you're thinking long term, then sourcing an engine from uk or Europe may not be out of the question, a short engine, sent by sea might not cost too much.
BTW, please include a Vampire knock control system in your plans !
BTW, please include a Vampire knock control system in your plans !
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Andrew- e85 - do you have it where you live?
#56
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Well I don't put too much faith in the accuracy of the HF leakdown tester. It idles and runs decently. But your description of it becoming an opil pump might explain a lot...
I guess this isn't a shocker. I knew the car had issues when I got it. But part of me was hoping it wasn't this bad.
I guess this isn't a shocker. I knew the car had issues when I got it. But part of me was hoping it wasn't this bad.
Leakdown testers are fairly basic instruments. Rod (Gaugeman69) made one, using household items and I've used it a couple of times.
You can check the accuracy of your tester against a good engine, like your GT or any other engine. James is right, anything into the double digits is a concern and 35% is terrible. I'm sort of "rebuilding" a 996 right now and the carbon build up on the exhaust valves caused a 15% leak. Once all cleaned up, it dropped to around 3-4%. 4.7s are dime a dozen, I would use one for this project. That 300cc won't make much of a difference anyways.
#57
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John, is the Sharktuner directly compatible with the J&S systems? I was looking at the Vampire system, and it seems it's mainly for COP ignition systems. What's funny is that it's something I was considering for my Lightning. So, more information with your experience would be great. I know the Lightning guys that run their systems swear by them!
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#59
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yes we do. But this SCer is already pretty much maxed out. I don't think I would gain anything (power wise) by going to e85 with this SCer. If I put a 2.8l, then yes, but that would be a big endeavor.
Nice project, finally a thread worth reading.
Leakdown testers are fairly basic instruments. Rod (Gaugeman69) made one, using household items and I've used it a couple of times.
You can check the accuracy of your tester against a good engine, like your GT or any other engine. James is right, anything into the double digits is a concern and 35% is terrible. I'm sort of "rebuilding" a 996 right now and the carbon build up on the exhaust valves caused a 15% leak. Once all cleaned up, it dropped to around 3-4%. 4.7s are dime a dozen, I would use one for this project. That 300cc won't make much of a difference anyways.
Leakdown testers are fairly basic instruments. Rod (Gaugeman69) made one, using household items and I've used it a couple of times.
You can check the accuracy of your tester against a good engine, like your GT or any other engine. James is right, anything into the double digits is a concern and 35% is terrible. I'm sort of "rebuilding" a 996 right now and the carbon build up on the exhaust valves caused a 15% leak. Once all cleaned up, it dropped to around 3-4%. 4.7s are dime a dozen, I would use one for this project. That 300cc won't make much of a difference anyways.
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Kidding aside, Z turned me on to this. You can find them on eBay for about $20 shipped. Search for USB endoscope. The have little LEDs on the end and work great. Just need to plug it into a laptop. The business end fits right down through a spark plug hole. It's hard to maneuver, but with a little patience you can usually capture the image you're looking for. Pick one up. You'll be glad you did.
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You may wish to look further into that. Depending on what is happening with the boost, you will at least get the 5% for the mere fuel switch, and then the additional timing that is available, and once you have the newer engine in, it will completely remove the possibility of detonation.