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85 Euro re-build thread

 
Old 09-19-2012, 09:24 PM
  #31  
AO
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Tried to do some sharktuning tonight. Idles fine, but cannot get it to tune well just off idle. I found a kinked fuel hose in front that might be causing some issues. Not sure though. Also, I think the RRFPR that DR uses might be adding to the mix - although I have the same unit on my GT and its fine. I think I will install a stock S4 FPR and fix that hose as a next step.

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Old 09-19-2012, 09:34 PM
  #32  
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Good update. For those getting up to speed, what are the compression numbers?
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Old 09-19-2012, 09:49 PM
  #33  
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Errr... I think all were like 170-180 except #7 which was 120. I have not re-checked. I'm running some **** through the tank to clean off any deposits on the valves. Then will re-check compression and do a leak down as needed.
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Old 09-19-2012, 10:03 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by AO View Post
Tried to just take it around the block and it was not happy. AFR was in the 18's!



Thanks.
It is a wonder it even ran at that AFR.
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Old 09-19-2012, 10:06 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by blown 87 View Post
It is a wonder it even ran at that AFR.
It didn't. I had to restart several times.
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Old 09-19-2012, 10:11 PM
  #36  
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If you have a cylinder that isn't really working tuning is virtually impossible.
Partially because that 1 cyl won't be igniting so your afrs will be way off the mark.

Do the leakdown and find the source of the low comp on cyl#7, fix that then tune. If you don't, you will just be eating time.
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Old 09-19-2012, 10:18 PM
  #37  
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Great thread Andrew, looking forward to the updates.
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Old 09-19-2012, 11:16 PM
  #38  
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CARS AND KIDS RULE!

I hope to get my daughter interested in my 914, but she's only 8 and it's a massive project, even I don't remember how I took it apart 10 years ago.

we'll see! keep us posted bud!!
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Old 09-20-2012, 01:50 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Lizard931 View Post
If you have a cylinder that isn't really working tuning is virtually impossible.
Partially because that 1 cyl won't be igniting so your afrs will be way off the mark.

Do the leakdown and find the source of the low comp on cyl#7, fix that then tune. If you don't, you will just be eating time.
Yeah... I know. But it's still kind of fun. The leak down shouldn't take too long. I'll be out of town this weekend, so maybe next week or next weekend.
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Old 09-20-2012, 02:06 PM
  #40  
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Andrew: Great project!

My kids are all adults now, and my youngest (Kate) is the only one with the car 'bug'. The older two really don't care to do more than turn the key and go. I miss those times under and around the car with my kids.

Enjoy and good luck with the project!
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Old 09-20-2012, 04:35 PM
  #41  
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A cylinder NOT firing because of compression or other issues will make it seem rich to the 02, and it will lean the rest out.

If that was a lean cylinder because of the air distribution at high power, it may have killed it somehow.

As the great Walt said "Real men pull engines"
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Old 09-20-2012, 07:15 PM
  #42  
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Uhm, a cylinder that doesn't fire reads lean as there is still loads of oxygen that wasn't consumed by the combustion.
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Old 09-20-2012, 07:41 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Lizard931 View Post
Uhm, a cylinder that doesn't fire reads lean as there is still loads of oxygen that wasn't consumed by the combustion.
I understand what you are saying, but it not, in my experience, as intuitive as that.

The cylinder that isn't firing will have fuel dumping in and not burning, and then going out the exhuast. If JUST that cylinder was read, it would read RICH.

But because it is averages between 8, it may make the computer see more fuel than oxygen, and then lean out the rest.
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Old 09-23-2012, 04:26 PM
  #44  
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It is a special car and a focus in special little ways.

Regards,
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Old 10-06-2012, 06:09 PM
  #45  
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Good News and Bad News...

Thanks to Rhudy (Camboinc) for letting me drive his Panamers GTS. I also got to pop the cherry on the launch control on the car. Ohhh BABY! That car is so much fun to drive. If you have the means... I highly suggest you pick one up! It is so choice!

So Rhudy pushed me to do the leakdown test. Thanks again homo! Interestingly all the cylinders were pretty close. Between 25% and 35%. Not great, but not horrible either.

First the good news. I've finally gotten a bit of tune on it so that I can drive it around the block without it dying. I took too much out of the cranking and warmup map so it's hard to start cold, but once it starts it idles great!

The oil smoke out the tail pipe is clearly from the oil breather setup (What a cluster f***). It's plumbed to feed the output to the exhaust. I think this was done for the Texas Mile run that Ed did, but something has gone wrong with this setup and it's now just spewing oil into the exhaust. I think one of the issues is that whoever did the install used heater hose which is not rated for oil... so now they are all super soft.

My plan of attack is to remove all that stuff, cap the exhaust ports, and install a provent to control any excess crank case pressure and return any oil back to the sump (like I do on my GT). I just need to get some plugs for the heads to un-install all the mickey-mouse BS oil breather crap that's on there.

OK now the BAD NEWS!

Cylinder number 7 is badly scored! The leakdown confirmed that the loss was through the rings (or maybe the cyl wall). And many of the pistons are in really bad condition. It is clear this car was knocking really really badly. Evidence below...

Cylinder #7


Another view...


One more...


Cyl #3(?)


Cyl #6


Cyl #4


So now the decision is what to do. In my opinion, this motor is toast - but drivable for a while. It might last a week or maybe a year.

I'm thinking I will get it tuned up a bit more and fix the oil-breather crap and then drive it. Meanwhile I will source a new motor. The only thing that might be useful on this motor are the heads.

Thoughts?
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