Roger - Yes Please - Put me in for a set -

 

Hi Roger!
I'm ready to buy a kit seal.
Best regards, Sergey

 

Regarding lubricants. Soapy water works well and is in every houshold.

 

I sent you an email earlier rog for a set!!

Geoff

 

Harbor Freight also has a couple sets for about $8 this one and one or two similar. I recall something like a stiff credit card edge worked "ok", but I may not have been doing it correctly at all.

 

Nice find Roger.
Put me down for a set please.
Email sent.
Thank you.

 

VERY COOL!!!! Dang People, the things we can get these days are mind-boggling. A few years ago (OK 10) I had to fab my own tools for this work from old bookshelf hanging parts. I'm going to run to HF and pick me up a set of these, thank you Dangler!

 

Here is the text from the inventor of the new rubber!



assemble a rubber profil on a door.hello shark-drivers

here I'll try to explain ,how to fix a new and soft rubber part upon the door , which eliminates the gap between the side-window, and the alluminium dooroutside, and finally stop scratching the side-window....!!

first take off all the inner covering , and the thin plastic part, and the rubber part upon the door -inside.
Against the window are two feltblocs , guides , ... loosen the bolts ,press the guides down ,and out.
After that in front , you can work through a hole to the rubber outside-part , work it a bit high , and take careful
out and off the door .
after that you can try to get in the new rubberpart, but when you do not have enough distance between outside door ,and the window , to get in the fissure with a finger , you better srew out totally the window.

look secure to the form at the ends of the original rubber , and take the new -one.

First cut off a minimal part ,about 30 degrees (like painted picture one , ) and so , that the longest point is dwnside.
Then cut off under about 45 degrees an edgepart, showed on photo 035 . of this
It looks now a bit like the sharp edge of a chisel.
After this you grind of a bit of this 45 degrees flattness, and make it a bit cave /sunken ,.. beware the end ,it gives the little pointup , (see the original,...)
After that you make three cuts in a distance of 15 -30-45 mm from the end , and a bit more than half , so the big middle also done,...
Be careful not to cut the upper flap,.. hold it away by hand ,...
The same way the other side .

After that you can cut through now in the middle , and have two parts in left and right form,...

To do so gives the possibility to make one new end when the first is not good , ..... because of no loose length of the rubber part, and the whole part is a bit too long , to have this possibility , (but not much ,..)

To make it smooth with teflon or vaseline , do not , because it clamps badder then .

make a control that the lower inside flap is not glued a bit by fabrication , other loosen it careful.

Now you begin as far as possible in the edge above the locking system , ... press in the rubber, first upper part , and hold and then with other hand between lock and window , inside the door , work the lower lip around the rail.
then press the rubber a bit to the edge, and fasten more on the same way as first , and press the rubber part totally to the edge, that it comes fine against the original ,which comes from above .

After this now you have to fasten the other side in the front -edge , where first is measured for the length , and make the length sooo that it does not have tension , 2 mm longer is better, because of shrinking a little bit in time , ....

sometimes you have to cut out a little part , ( see photo 036 ) to make that it clothes fine , but I saw in my second car that it is not always necessary, and again , press first the upper flap in the split , and then the lower flap.

After that , you fasten first the upper , and then the lower flap over the total length of the door.
When it all is done ,without screwing out the window , you can try with a screwdriver , in bottom of the V of the lower insideflap , to press down the rubber a bit , and with another part , (or finger , ) work the lower fasteningflap around the rail.
Sometimes this is real difficult , ... be very careful with pressure on the screwdriver , and sometimes it will not fine because of the harshness rubber,....
When the upper flap will not be fastened very well , you can help it by a little bit of kontact-glue in the split.

It costs a bit time , but the result is fine , and the knowledge , of not getting a scretched window feels very good,..

with kindest regards ,.. Remi from holland.

 

Not to be disrespectful but I agree that we might need Dwayne to help on this one

 

The thumb looks painful, or did look painful

 

I hope we don't all have to whack our thumbs putting this in. The queasy part is using a hot needle to drain the blood from under the nail, otherwise you can lose a nail.

So are we getting a kit to install or is this more like a Balsa wood airplane model?

 

No kit for certain - no kit with the Porsche seals.

The inventor does not speak perfect English, however his command of the English language is far better than most of us here's ability to speak Dutch or German. I am happy he made an attempt and we should thank him for that.

My good friend Schocki has already translated the instructions into English and they will available with the product. Once the testers have completed there findings then the instructions will be modified or added to.

 

Hey Roger, I know it is too late to be a test fitter, but if they fit o.k. I would like to place a order for a set also, BTW if you ever get in another bunch of fender covers I want a set reserved also-

 

Is there any progress, pics etc....

 

My existing seals are very hard, but still look good.

Any help, Rog?