Shane

Joel it is easier than moving the belt one tooth, hardest part about changing the cam timing is getting the two timing belt covers, caps and rotors off. Order the 32vr tool from Ken or Roger, directions come with it. It really is simple.

PorKen

It's quite easy to get the belt off one tooth when doing the timing belt, most often on the 5-8 side.


16V cam gears are fixed, so the only adjustment is a full tooth.


32V cams are infinitely adjustable, with a ±2 teeth range. It's possible to have the gear mark align with the head, but the cam is way off. You need a PK32V'r to see the actual cam position. (A PKBumpstick makes it super easy to adjust, if needed.)

PorKen

Here are the 'hot' tips for getting consistent S3 dyno results. My graphs nearly always stack one on top of the other.


Most importantly, position a Blue Blower over the opening at the rear of the intake as shown. It will externally cool the air temp sensor, and MAF. Dyno places will usually have a couple of these, but if you have one, bring it, and an extension cord!

The air temp sensor will retard the ignition timing, and the MAF reads differently as it heats up.


The dyno place MUST put a BIG fan (or fans) in front the the car.

Let the engine cool to 1/2 on the gauge before doing the run. Dyno place may whine that it can't be done, but it only takes ~5 minutes with the 928 radiator and aluminum block with a BIG fan out front. Always leave the key in the 'on' position so the A/C fan runs whenever the engine is turned off.

If the coolant temp is at the 3/4 mark (or higher) then the results WILL be lower.

PorKen

After doing some more graph comparisons, I'm starting to think that there may be an airflow 'wall' at 5500 rpm which may limit the max S3 HP, even at -12°.

Below is a comparison of 0, -2, and -8, with manuals trans, open airbox. I fear the peak at 5000 will be higher at -12, but the HP will still flatten out. (More HP at 5000 is still more HP, though.) I am hopeful the last harmonic works better at -12, and the HP peak will be higher, but I'm not going to bet on it.


It is certainly nice to drive! I went for a drive yesterday in the black car. Mom's day, 0 traffic, 0 police, awesome. The exhaust note is different with the 87 octane/less ign. advance, glorious, but muted (HeX-pipe to GT resonators to balanced pipes straight out the back). When 5000 hits, it becomes scarily faster - uphill!

mark kibort

what was the acutal on the dyno run?

pretty amazing.

BC, dont think that 42 lb injectors are needed, especially, since i wish i had 24lbers ,and am using 30lbers, for my 370rhp, and did 330rwhp with a 5 liter and 70psi.

BC

Can we use your normal chips and run the retard?

PorKen

I think you mean UNCorrected, or what the car actually puts down at the air temp during the dyno run.

All of the runs below were done at about 60F/16C and 30.1"hg. I have not yet dynoed the manual at -12.

Corrections
STD 60F 29.92"
DIN 68F 29.92"
SAE 77F 29.23"


The auto really does a number on the torque between 4-5K.
Notice how choppy it gets between 4-5K. (The same thing happens on Glen M's auto dyno.)
Note that at -12 it catches up with the manual at 0 by 6250, because it plods along at the lower max torque for longer.


Auto -12 (red)
Manual -8 (blue), 0 (green)

IcemanG17

Ken
Be cautious at such high RPM......928's oiling issues are well documented and packing the heads with oil above 6000 is also well documented.....granted a short dyno pull or burst on the street won't hurt...but I would be VERY cautious spinning a race 928 to 6750rpm on stock internals!!!!! I've proven the engines are VERY reliable up too, but not past 6000rpm.... Since I also saw in person what a 7000rpm 32V 928 engine looked like when it sucked an intake valve...

PorKen

Argh...I realized I had the wrong MAF installed for the auto dyno. A wonky MAF that reads lean. Looking closer, 4500-5500 is leaner than it should be on the dyno AFR (I had removed my own logging equipment), so it may explain why the 5000 peak is chopped off.

I'll have to retest the auto after I do the manual...and pay closer attention to the AFR on the dyno.

jbrob007

O.K. Ken you've talked me into it... Can you send me what I need along with a bill or do I need to contact Roger? Really looking forward to running her once the cams are where theyre SUPPOSED to be... She runs pretty damn good now but I'm concerned with pinging at WOT - cant have that now can we! Let me know and I'll send my address, etc...

Avar928

I'm guessing better results with a rebuilt MAF? O.O Sweet.

jbrob007

Avar928,

You could be right but I'll start with the cam timing - easier, much-o less expensive and just as likely to be the cause... If the cam timing is correct (as in stock or whatever Ken thinks is the best advance/retard for my set up)... well, then its on to the MAF

Ken,

Where should the cam timing be with my set up (using the cam timing tool) ??? Car: 86.5, V3.6 Chips, 5 Speed, Cats and Intermediates, RMB, Airpump Delete, Manual Fan... ( no X-Pipe yet I'm shooting for the best Torque & HP across the board - my biggest concern is pinging at WOT (as mentioned earlier) - cant have that...

Thanks for the info guys!

PorKen

If your MAF is original, it should be rebuilt.

Cam timing should be zero with the standard S300s chipset. IE. 1-4 -2°, 5-8 0°, cold engine.

soupcan

We were headed home from the movies last night and drove past a "tuner" shop having a dyno day event. It was almost 10pm but they still had a good crowd outside so we pulled in,they said they couldn't do any pulls past 10 so they would hurry and try to get a quick couple pulls in. It toke a little time for them to get the 928 strapped down good and the local sheriff who was on hand had them shut it down at 10pm on the nose. We got one pull in, 272hp. Sorry about the dyno sheet it went to the beach with us this morning.

jbrob007

Ken, I believe it is... why should it be rebuilt? Does it have a specific shelf-life? It only has 63K miles on the clock - with the last 22K miles within the last year... yeah, I like to drive it

Thanks again for the info...