jbrob007

I have the short fan belt for the manual fan (air pump delete with Porkensioner) provided by Roger. Never checked cam timing - wouldnt know where to start It was a strap on and go... probably not the best set up and we only ran her once. It was promotional FREE dyno tests from JEGS who had a contractor doing the runs - you get what you pay for... not sure I can get that info

The chart lists drf info:
SAE Smoothing: 5
Run Type: RO
Run Conditions: 81 F (warmer than I thought), 29.44 in-Hg, Humidity: 7%
SAE: 1.00
Max Power: 255.49
Max Torque: 288.11

Still happy with the results, but was looking for slightly higher HP... wish I lived closer to the NorthWest (again) - we used to live in Port Orchard, WA. I'll send you the chart. Thanks Ken

PorKen

Check that the WOT switch is working.

Kinda looks like one or both cams are advanced, though. See on the torque line how the first harmonic is just huge, and then the following two humps are just dying.

Advancing the cams lets it make big torque at lower rpms, but it can't breathe at higher rpms. (Note that there is a danger of pinging at full throttle with more than +3° advance.)

Ideally, the graph would be reversed, with the HP peak higher than the first TQ peak. (The last TQ hump determines peak HP.)

John Speake

Any thoughts on retard for the 16v Euro 85/86 ?

PorKen

S2s have longer duration cams and higher compression (10.4), so they should not need (or perhaps want) to go as high as -12°, but if it can be done safely, one cam tooth = 7.5°, looks like it would be perfect. That would make for a 61.5° intake closing (-12° on S3 = 62°), which would push the HP peak from 5900 to over 6200, but it should be a good bit higher.

You would have to increase ignition advance overall, and/or lower the octane to make up for the compression loss, plus change the fuel/timing over 5000 as it will be breathing better there. Rev limit to >6500.

(cam specs)

jbrob007

I'm sure your correct as it has TONS of torque out of the hole... One of our club members had his Porkenized 86.5 Auto dyno'd too - while his #s were a bit lower, the HP & TQ lines seemed reversed to mine. Do you adjust the cam timing via the timing belt? Guess I'll need to take it to someone who knows how to check cam advance/retard - well beyond my mechanical expertise

Anybody got a thread with step by step on this procedure? Or pics of where the cam gears arrows should be set for best performance on this MY? At least then I'll kinda know what I'm talking about when discussing the results with the 928 Buckeye LandShark club members this Wednesday.

Thanks again Ken! As always - any and all help is greatly appreciated

Avar928

Can the timing be off if the timing belt hasn't been changed in a long time, say 20 years? I think mine may be, I get some flat spots and power loss between certain RPMs and a few times when I'm in that range and punch it.

rexpontius

You have a 32v with a 20 year old cam belt?!

Change it before ever starting it again. Makes me wonder about the condition of the rest of the mechanics in your car when the belt has never been changed...,

Avar928

The last change was in '92 based on the records provided to me...and none after that. I believe the words "nightmare" and "dried and cracked" were used by my mechanic when he opened her up the first time to do the intake. I'm slowly making progress on fixing up everything and have a laundry list of stuff to do. Surprisingly she doesn't leak oil really aside the driver side cam cover

I'll be pull the cam gears and the other gears too.

jbrob007

From what I understand, some brands of belts (Conti) can stretch which could make a difference... Of course if your belt is that old you run a HUGE risk of timing belt failure which will kill your engine - no ifs, ands or buts

rexpontius

Dont take any risks, the 32v is an interference engine. When the belt breaks, you will for sure be looking at severe (and very expensive) engine damage.

John Speake

It would be an inmtersting experiment... I though each tooth on the cam was 3.75deg crank ? Are you talking about cam or crank deg when you talk about "12 deg retard" etc ?

Safety is a concern.....

PorKen

Each crank gear tooth is 15°, cam gears are 7.5° (72/144).

Crank degrees.

John Speake

The extra top end power would be useful but what the Euro S2 needs is more low down torque. A remap of the EZ-F certainly helps to fill the hole due to the stupid auto 'box ratios when changing from 2nd to 3rd.

PorKen

I was worried that the retard would make my auto a sloth, but a few turns tightening of the control pressure cable and not being shy of the kickdown switch make use of the new high rpm power. The lower compression with the cam retard lets the engine rev faster, and it doesn't engine brake at high rpm as much as it did at 0° (or advanced), so it feels effortless.

I used to be all about torque, but have since made a conversion. More Kiborts/sec is better than more torque at the expense of HP (with cam advance).


BTW, modifying the kickdown relay for a shift higher than 5900(?) might be good, too, especially for that 2-3.

jbrob007

Greeeeeaaaaaaat.... Now I KNOW I have no clue how to adjust the cam timing. I was hoping it was as simple as manuvering the belt a tooth this way or that on each cam gear... but, of course it just cant be THAT easy (not that its easy to begin with...)

Apparently I'm gonna need some expert guidance and Ken just lives too damn far away... Ever consider moving to OHIO!?!?

Joel