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Installed new license plate light fixtures. Found some sweet red LED festoons...got the cooling fins built in and everything... Got those in ...looks super sweet at night!
Put in my new water pump and started fitting the PK tensioner. Does anyone know if there is a replacement boot for the oil level sensor? Mine is trash.
Pulled the thermostat housing and the thermostat was frozen in by corrosion. Not sure the best way to clean it other than scraping it out.
Roger just had a batch made. He has them ina good price
hoi
Originally Posted by Geo55
Put in my new water pump and started fitting the PK tensioner. Does anyone know if there is a replacement boot for the oil level sensor? Mine is trash.
Pulled the thermostat housing and the thermostat was frozen in by corrosion. Not sure the best way to clean it other than scraping it out.
Did a random check of the WOT switch and found it did not activate. Installed one I bought a while back and a new mini harness to it. After that still no activation. Found I was not getting full throttle. Adjusted the pedal cable and the WOT switch position to be sure there was a bit extra throttle beyond the activation point.
Started the car and it ran like crap. Missed randomly at idle. like a stutter. Did I create a vacuum leak? Hmmm. Got it hot then backed off the pedal cable a turn, ran a blinker test and it was only a wispier out.
Had to take the car for an estimate by a dig repair expert so drove it. It ran a bit better but the idle is faster out of gear and still misses a bit.
1. Maybe the tightened throttle cable was pulling the throttle valve a bit.
2. Most likely I have a vacuum leak that is stating to conform and seal after warming up. I would bet on that one.
Either way I can't tolerate even a slight miss. I am going back in slow-motion-mode to check all the vacuum connections; lines tubes and O-ring under the Throttle body, the MAF is well seated and even the ICV connections. There is so much going on in there and very little room so one item pushing on another can easily create a fault.
On the bright side the car pulls a bit better now with an actual WOT.
Cheers, Steve
Prepping for Water Pump and Timing Belt job tomorrow morning with Brother NCGrowler(aka Stephen). Nothing like getting laid off to find time to work on the fun part of life. I survived Torque Tube replacement and Stephen has done this before so I'm hopeful.
Drove it! Went to a Chamber of Commerce meeting to let them know how well Camp 928 was going. Went to Town Hall to ask about insurance requirements for it. Estimated there was room for 54 cars in front of Town Hall. Might fill it!
The new bumper is no longer pristine, but I sure enjoyed running these errands.
Completed TB and WP along with Front Crank seal, PS pump seal and Oil pump O-rings and car still runs. I had a fellow 928 fanatic help which made everything more enjoyable even when questionable situations arose.
We followed Dwayne's TB writeup which was incredible. Only real difference with his docs and my setup was I had a Porkensioner already installed. Not having to deal with the factory tensioner shaved a good 5 pages out of Dwayne's instructions.
The trickiest part of the job was the Oil Pump O-Ring. Tolerances are really tight and when reassembling the pump with the new o-ring, the new o-ring just needed a lot of coaxing not to rollout of its groove. Extra care and hands are needed to guide things back together.
After wanting to fix the holes in the drivers seat for years I have taken the covers off and looked for a shop to replace a couple panels. The price of remaking new ones and the typical results I have seen pushed me to try the panel replacement first. Found a reasonable piece of material so far as color in plastic but leather was very hard to come by in the right color or in small pieces.
Upholstery is a different type of work. It is weird how they made these seats.
Took the covers to a local car upholstery shop and talked them into trying. Nobody likes to work on old leather because it is so fragile.
Anyway got the job going for under $200. Basically kicking the full replacement cost down the road like repainting. However it turns out it will be better than it was.
After I get the covers back and on will continue looking to find a paint-less dig removal person that I feel lucky about as far as capability vs price.
I hate rolling the dice and letting other work on the car. There are just some equipment and skills I don't have.
Will let you know how it goes. Cheers, Steve
As the weather is finally clearing up here, I had time today to di-hibernate the car. Was looking forward to driving it, but alas no. When I was under it I noted a screw in the brand new Y rated Potenza I had put on. No driving, but had her running though.
Still cold, still some snow lying around, but drove the car. No warm air from the HVAC, but that was a good result: I had implemented the vacuum line switchheroo to force the heater valve closed. Previously, I was getting lots of heat, year-round.
It all started when I noticed coolant under the car and decided to finally replace the 29 year old radiator with 928 Motorsport unit; then while I was in there - replaced the water pump, timing belt, dialed in the cams and upgraded to a Porkententioner, new seals, all new drive belts & hoses. Also sent out the MAF to be recalibrated. Today I did the final bolt-ups, filled her with coolant up and fired up the 928 S4. I'm very happy to say there were no leaks and after a good warm-up, she pulls like a freight train!
Content with a celebratory Heineken in hand
04-02-2017, 12:30 AM
Adjusted the pedal cable and the WOT switch position to be sure there was a bit extra throttle beyond the activation point. 
Missed randomly at idle. like a stutter. Did I create a vacuum leak? Hmmm. Got it hot then backed off the pedal cable a turn, ran a blinker test and it was only a wispier out. 
