Captain_Slow

Installed the silicone OPG...

oups59

Installed the intake on my spare engine ...

supercedar

Put 25 hours into cleaning up the no show parts!

bureau13

Got out the throw-away Hazmat suit (fortuitous Halloween costume choice) and a gallon of Formula 88 degreaser and went to down on the lower half of my engine and the underbody. It's still pretty dirty but a lot better than it was, and about the best I can do without the ability to lift it higher.

Threw away afore-mentioned Hazmat suit.

Fitted temporary plywood spare tire cover (awaiting Sharkwoofer )

Got my box of Busman fuses and started going over the fuse situation in detail. Turns out my horn issue was due to no horn fuse, my condenser fan issue was (at least in part...there are other issues) due to no fuse, passenger seat electrics were not working due to the fuse being placed one spot over in the unused slot, and no fuse in the "rear wiper park" position (rear wiper still doesn't work, but I guess I'm one step closer). Lol I'm glad I hadn't really tried to diagnose any of this stuff before.

How critical is it to have the proper amperage fuses? I have a number of 25s that should be 20s, and I think a couple others that are one step higher than factory spec. I suppose I should just change them, since I have plenty now.

Captain_Slow

Cleaned the grime off my shock bodies and discovered they are not original. They are black Boge "automatic" GAS. So...if they are "new" (installed by the PO within the past 5-6 years/ 50,000 miles) I'm surprised. The car tends to bounce (high amplitude, low frequency) in front and rear riding over dips or bumps at speed. I didn't experience this with either of my previous 928 86.5s. I assumed the shocks were original and worn.

545svk

Not exactly to the 928, but for it.

Cleaned out the mouse nest behind my workbench. Caught 2 mice and put out some more traps. Now sorry I evicted the Carpet Python that used to live there.

Checked the cars for signs of mice.

martinss

Added another piece of missing original equipment:

Wisconsin

I found out that replacing the fuse for the cabin fan blows every time I replace it. I now have Window and blower issues to figure out before spring.

Andy Kay

Traded four Klipsch speakers for four Cup I wheels. Then had American Wheel straightened, powder coated and clear coat them. Went to Discount Tire for a Road Force Balance and install. They read 0.00. Tech said he has never seen 0.00 before. They look awesome! Thanks Chuck/Stretch!

PM me if you are interested in my old set.

Chalkboss

Finished the intake refresh! Merry Xmas to me. It was quite a bit of work, glad I took vacation time to do it. I replaced pretty much everything you can, including all sensors. The knock sensors were toast, as usual. And as usual, the worst things to do were the stinking ISV connector and the hall sensor. I did the sensor without pulling the cam cover. All in all not too bad though. I went with paint and hand lettered the insignia. If it holds up 3-4 years I'll be happy. I could not have done it without you guys (and Dwayne wherever he is. I need to buy that guy a nice dinner).

Here's a pic before I put the rail covers on and tidy everything up. It started right up and runs magnificent. Much better mid-throttle response. I think my flappy was sticking as the stop nut was missing on the diaphragm arm, so it was getting caught a bit due to closing in the chamber all the way. I fashioned a nut and adjusted it so that the flappy is open about 1/16th an inch. Smooth operator now!

Captain_Slow

Got the new Volvo motor mounts and cross member bolted up. Lots more to do...I disconnected the shocks from the lower control arms to make installing the cross member easier. I still have the motor support bar and chain holding up the engine until I torque the bolts I installed today. But sure is nice having the cross member and mounts in place underneath.

Alan

Yes you should change them all to correct values and don't ever be tempted to use something larger than stock.

Fuses exist to protect wiring & equipment - if the fuse is too big the wire might start protecting the fuse instead... That is very bad news indeed because you wouldn't know exactly which bit of wire needs to be replaced - and replacing it can be very difficult and expensive too. Fuses are cheap enough you can always have some on hand

Alan

bureau13

Sounds reasonable. They were all just a size up...I'm guessing there was a mass fuse-replace and they just didn't have all the sizes...but since I do, I guess it would be pretty stupid not to make them right.

Thanks

Bizman928

Its critical to keep to the stock sizes of fuses as much as you can. They are designed to save the parts & wires they are each connected to so there for a reason!

Why not try our LED Fuse kits - full set of fuses with Glow LED's in them so you can see instantly which fuse has blown without taking it out of the fuse board.
Great idea for those dark wet nights when a fuse blows and you cannot see all the way down to your fuse panel.

http://woodypeck.ipage.com/?product=led-blade-fuse
http://woodypeck.ipage.com/wp-conten...low-Fuse-2.jpg
Steve

Wisconsin

Last night I chase the power window from the switch to the door. I need a window motor. Today I had 20 minutes so I cleaned the corrosion off the negative battery terminal that connects to the body of the car. I did not have a new bolt the proper size but will pick one up Friday. I found a window motor on EBay for $100. Will probably jump on that.