In need of a S4 transmission
#124
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
here are some pics
Just took it out for a nice drive to work! 60-100mph, etc. the Trans is perfect!! woo hooo!!
mk
Just took it out for a nice drive to work! 60-100mph, etc. the Trans is perfect!! woo hooo!!
mk
Last edited by mark kibort; 02-23-2011 at 04:42 PM.
#125
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Mark--
redline or Amsoil in the old gearbox? Just koorious. There may be a case for using a thicker oil, for sure a case for a cooler with spray bar in the cover and a good external pump.
redline or Amsoil in the old gearbox? Just koorious. There may be a case for using a thicker oil, for sure a case for a cooler with spray bar in the cover and a good external pump.
#126
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I have redline in the gear box, LSD no-slip version. 75-90 weight.
why mess with success. I mean, really, 10 full race seasons, 10,000s of street miles, all hard, and it finally gives out?? the guys at the track, druel with envy as they rebuild their jerico's every other race, blow things up on a regular basis, etc etc. I think 200hours on gear box is more than anyone could expect. still, the 5th gear is not broken, just has some teath damage. I dont think its a wear issue, based on the condition of the gear teath on all the other gears. I think its a material strength issue. but , again, 10 years later, is not a bad deal. definitely got my money's worth out of this one.
I never had a problem with shifting, ever, except for the first few years, where when it got hot, i would notice some stiffness and notchiness. BUT, after I learned how to shift with much better technique, that problem went COMPLETELY away. so, if you think a cooler and spraybars, thicker oil,etc will help, its really as easy as learning how to be nice to the gear box, while using it at 100% of its capability.
why mess with success. I mean, really, 10 full race seasons, 10,000s of street miles, all hard, and it finally gives out?? the guys at the track, druel with envy as they rebuild their jerico's every other race, blow things up on a regular basis, etc etc. I think 200hours on gear box is more than anyone could expect. still, the 5th gear is not broken, just has some teath damage. I dont think its a wear issue, based on the condition of the gear teath on all the other gears. I think its a material strength issue. but , again, 10 years later, is not a bad deal. definitely got my money's worth out of this one.
I never had a problem with shifting, ever, except for the first few years, where when it got hot, i would notice some stiffness and notchiness. BUT, after I learned how to shift with much better technique, that problem went COMPLETELY away. so, if you think a cooler and spraybars, thicker oil,etc will help, its really as easy as learning how to be nice to the gear box, while using it at 100% of its capability.
#127
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
for the life of me, why do some say to remove the CV axles by taking off the 32mm nut? why also does the manual want you to remove the suspension via the toe in esentric? the entire carrier just drops down. my alingment didnt change a bit, based on some early measurements, and how it drives.
this job was pretty straight forward, and next time it will be easier, as both Bill and I had broken jacks that took a lot of futzting to get them to raise stuff! (got to get one of those new aluminum jacks!)
this job was pretty straight forward, and next time it will be easier, as both Bill and I had broken jacks that took a lot of futzting to get them to raise stuff! (got to get one of those new aluminum jacks!)
#129
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The only hard part was the front torque tube upper bolts. a long socket 17mm and a short one will do the job, with a fairly thin ratchet. one of mine worked, the other, plus bill's didnt fit. when they fit, you can do it. this way, the torque tube just drops down with the transmission and suspension and you are free from everything. just remove the e-brake line and speedo wires, calipers tied to the chassis, with ABS sensors pulled back, and thats it.
about an 8 hour job. we had the transmission out like in the picture, in 3 hours almost exactly. i spent about 2 last night just making sure things were tight and filling the transmission with fluid with a tube and gravity feed through a funnel. piece of cake!
about an 8 hour job. we had the transmission out like in the picture, in 3 hours almost exactly. i spent about 2 last night just making sure things were tight and filling the transmission with fluid with a tube and gravity feed through a funnel. piece of cake!
#130
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Kibort.."so, if you think a cooler and spraybars, thicker oil,etc will help, its really as easy as learning how to be nice to the gear box, while using it at 100% of its capability......" Yea probably was no need for Porsche to put a pump and spray bars into a STOCK GTS gearbox and fit a cooler. What were they thinking ???? Mark could have just given them driving lessons.
#133
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The layshaft gears are working in all the gears but 5 th so they do get far far more torture than any other gearset. Part of the thinking behind cooling the trans is to reduce the expansion and dimensional changes of the alloy gear housing which lets the gears get further apart. The Rennlist stroker motor is also putting more torque into the box and more heat as the bearings are holding the gearsets in mesh.
#134
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I dont know how different the GTS transmission is. drive your car on the street for a few hours straight and feel the transmission. its barely warm. most of these types of mechanical systems wear less at some optimimum warm temp as well.
Porsche had NO ONE that really tested our gear boxes as Anderson and I have. Anderson has almost 200more hp. Sure a case for keeping things at a level of where they are for my set up.
If you are not "nice " to the gear box, then there might be higher temps, i dont know. certainly the syncros dont work when hot, so why is it that I have no problem now, at the end of the races??? the bottom-line Jim, is 10 years of racing, with none of the notchiness of shifting that some speak of, that I have experienced in racing for longer than most anyone in this platform (longer, meaning, one gear box no mods and 10 full race seasons , never missing a race!)
so, make fun of treating the equipment right, but much of a racers success is taking care of the equipment. most bolt on stuff before they even know what do do with it and that is just the way it is. blip the 928 engine on every down shift, and blip it so we can hear it, and you will never have a shifting problem on the track. even scots old crummy OB box with bad synchros was not that bad if you were very careful in race conditions.
you dont believe me. watch the videos of scots car in a race or mine.
10 years of racing Jim. So, would spray bars and coolers extended my life for where it failed??? more than likely, not.
So, as for what porsche was thinking?? Hmmm, do I really need to answer that? does the 928 "need" two air conditioners, a chassis that cant be crushed unless it is pre-cut, did it "need " 4 cams? remember, they had piston squirters first and then they removed them. Hmmm, something tells me that there were engineers trying to always make the 928 last even longer and longer and some things did this and others maybe just were interesting.
how many transmissions did anderson go through, when running the same lap times as I ran a few years ago?
heck, if I never changed the transmission oil, would this failure still occured? hard to say.
Now, all we can do is treat the stuff as it was meant to be treated. If you do that, 90% of the problems go away I would bet. I dont mean be easy on it, i mean use it right!
Porsche had NO ONE that really tested our gear boxes as Anderson and I have. Anderson has almost 200more hp. Sure a case for keeping things at a level of where they are for my set up.
If you are not "nice " to the gear box, then there might be higher temps, i dont know. certainly the syncros dont work when hot, so why is it that I have no problem now, at the end of the races??? the bottom-line Jim, is 10 years of racing, with none of the notchiness of shifting that some speak of, that I have experienced in racing for longer than most anyone in this platform (longer, meaning, one gear box no mods and 10 full race seasons , never missing a race!)
so, make fun of treating the equipment right, but much of a racers success is taking care of the equipment. most bolt on stuff before they even know what do do with it and that is just the way it is. blip the 928 engine on every down shift, and blip it so we can hear it, and you will never have a shifting problem on the track. even scots old crummy OB box with bad synchros was not that bad if you were very careful in race conditions.
you dont believe me. watch the videos of scots car in a race or mine.
10 years of racing Jim. So, would spray bars and coolers extended my life for where it failed??? more than likely, not.
So, as for what porsche was thinking?? Hmmm, do I really need to answer that? does the 928 "need" two air conditioners, a chassis that cant be crushed unless it is pre-cut, did it "need " 4 cams? remember, they had piston squirters first and then they removed them. Hmmm, something tells me that there were engineers trying to always make the 928 last even longer and longer and some things did this and others maybe just were interesting.
how many transmissions did anderson go through, when running the same lap times as I ran a few years ago?
heck, if I never changed the transmission oil, would this failure still occured? hard to say.
Now, all we can do is treat the stuff as it was meant to be treated. If you do that, 90% of the problems go away I would bet. I dont mean be easy on it, i mean use it right!
Kibort.."so, if you think a cooler and spraybars, thicker oil,etc will help, its really as easy as learning how to be nice to the gear box, while using it at 100% of its capability......" Yea probably was no need for Porsche to put a pump and spray bars into a STOCK GTS gearbox and fit a cooler. What were they thinking ???? Mark could have just given them driving lessons.
#135
Nordschleife Master
Why did you remove the TT as well?
I have removed a manual transmission with dropping the rear suspension, removing a dropped centering spring, and reinstalling everything in 6 hours including cleanup time.
So you do have some time to save there.
I have removed a manual transmission with dropping the rear suspension, removing a dropped centering spring, and reinstalling everything in 6 hours including cleanup time.
So you do have some time to save there.