early dyno results
03-17-2011, 06:45 PM
#541
Former Sponsor
Note the time....I barely even cared that we ran them, much less what the mixtures were. We simply removed Andy's pipes and ran mine without any changes.
03-17-2011, 08:11 PM
#543
Great work. Interesting info in the Oil Pressure column. If what was thought was happening before, this engine is holding 109PSI at 7000 RPM, so the Pan must be full of oil.
As for the A/F numbers, I have engines that look worse than this, but the engine makes its peak Torque with the A/F like this. Some engines like more and some like less. Just beciase you have a perfect A/f curve never ever meansd the engine makes its best torque. I've been told its all about the air's movement through the head at certain RPM's that dictates the A/F number to make the best torque.
I suppose this kind of speaks to the point Greg makes about Internet dyno's and engineers. Best to put you money where your ***** are, hold your engine at 7000 RPM for "X period of time" and then show the dyno results. I'm figuring most out there could not or would not do this. If there are any engines out there that make more "real" HP than this one with no oiling issues, then it would have been cloned and sold to all by now. It is just a good thing we bragg about our engines performance and not about our manly junk. If this was the case, there would be some real freaks out there.
As for the A/F numbers, I have engines that look worse than this, but the engine makes its peak Torque with the A/F like this. Some engines like more and some like less. Just beciase you have a perfect A/f curve never ever meansd the engine makes its best torque. I've been told its all about the air's movement through the head at certain RPM's that dictates the A/F number to make the best torque.
I suppose this kind of speaks to the point Greg makes about Internet dyno's and engineers. Best to put you money where your ***** are, hold your engine at 7000 RPM for "X period of time" and then show the dyno results. I'm figuring most out there could not or would not do this. If there are any engines out there that make more "real" HP than this one with no oiling issues, then it would have been cloned and sold to all by now. It is just a good thing we bragg about our engines performance and not about our manly junk. If this was the case, there would be some real freaks out there.
03-17-2011, 08:20 PM
#544
Administrator - "Tyson"
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
I've found that you have to be very careful with dyno fuel mixtures readings. The engine passes so quickly through those numbers that the readings are not necessarily accurate. Those A/F numbers that are in the 10's and 11's are actually about 12.5-13.0, if you go to those individual cells and hold the power steady.
Same thing happens when I tune on my Mustang Chassis Dyno. I'm able to hold things longer and more accurately tune an "individual point". If we go from the Mustang over to a DynoJet, the dynojet guy will always "freak" out at how far off the mixtures are.
I've found a Dynojet just a bit better than nothing, when it comes to tuning A/F mixtures...nothing has enough time to stabilize, when the engine sweeps so quickly through an RPM range.
Same thing happens when I tune on my Mustang Chassis Dyno. I'm able to hold things longer and more accurately tune an "individual point". If we go from the Mustang over to a DynoJet, the dynojet guy will always "freak" out at how far off the mixtures are.
I've found a Dynojet just a bit better than nothing, when it comes to tuning A/F mixtures...nothing has enough time to stabilize, when the engine sweeps so quickly through an RPM range.
Dynojet does sell more than one model with a full eddy braking system (like the one we use). Which can hold any speed / rpm under any load.
Yes most dynojets are inertia only, that doesn't mean all of them are. Their AWD dyno with dual eddy brakes are becoming quite popular.
03-17-2011, 09:15 PM
#545
Former Sponsor
We've been over this before Greg - you are discussing the differences between a inertia only dyno and one with a braking system.
Dynojet does sell more than one model with a full eddy braking system (like the one we use). Which can hold any speed / rpm under any load.
Yes most dynojets are inertia only, that doesn't mean all of them are. Their AWD dyno with dual eddy brakes are becoming quite popular.
Dynojet does sell more than one model with a full eddy braking system (like the one we use). Which can hold any speed / rpm under any load.
Yes most dynojets are inertia only, that doesn't mean all of them are. Their AWD dyno with dual eddy brakes are becoming quite popular.
When I say "Dynojet" I'm guilty of refering to the inertia only dyno thing. I have not seen one of their eddy current dynos, like you use....which has to be much like my Mustang, in terms of results.
BTW...Your "testy wording" in this comment, along with that whole thing about me selling parts off of the '90 car has gotten me a bunch (boatload, lots, many) of emails and PM's about what your problem is, with me. I kind of ignored the whole "parts" selling "problem" and wrote that off to you just trying to be a bit "over the top", as moderator. However, your comment here, is interestingly worded. Perhaps I've done something to offend you?
It would be good to get this out and talk about it...tough to exist on a Forum where the moderator has a hard on for you. If there is a problem, I can easily move to another Forum...no big deal, to me...there are people over there that I can talk to. Let me know...life is tough enough without having to fight your way through it.
BTW #2...Rennlist has not contacted me.
Last edited by GregBBRD; 03-17-2011 at 11:29 PM.
03-18-2011, 03:58 AM
#548
Drifting
Greg I have a couple questions. Please forgive me if they should be obvious.
referring to pictures on page one
1. Why no oil pressure sensor at the filter, it looks like a bleeder?
2. Are those temp probes in the exhaust, I thought they were not required?
3. Why use the stock belt tensioner?
4. Why use old distributor ignition instead of CDI?
Thanks
Brad
referring to pictures on page one
1. Why no oil pressure sensor at the filter, it looks like a bleeder?
2. Are those temp probes in the exhaust, I thought they were not required?
3. Why use the stock belt tensioner?
4. Why use old distributor ignition instead of CDI?
Thanks
Brad
03-18-2011, 11:16 AM
#553
I had a brief look at the engine while it was on the dyno cart in Greg's shop. To suggest that it's a work of art is a gross understatement. First of all, there's nothing ever hacked or less than perfect execution in Greg's projects. So any questions about quality of workmanship and execution are moot. The Simard ITB intake setup is nice enough to get extra blood flowing. The extra plumbing for the oil management system is all done with 'the good stuff' as far as hoses and fittings, and everything has a purpose. There's lots that isn't visible to the naked eye too. It's all eye candy for car guys, that's for sure.
Andy, you'll be very proud to open the hood with that engine sitting in there. Trust me! Also trust me that the auto box will be much more forgiving than a stick. The stick drivers can't do full-throttle 1-2 shifts without feeling the rev limiter, and 2-3 shifts are only marginally better. That's based on riding in Rob's GTS during some street-tuning runs for Sharktuning. If it were mine, I'd be looking for a good 2.20 S4 autobox with stiffened LSD so the extra torque could actually do some work going down the road. The quicker GTS ratios will have you out of tach before top speed, and keep the engine busy at freeway hyper-cruise speeds.
Andy, you'll be very proud to open the hood with that engine sitting in there. Trust me! Also trust me that the auto box will be much more forgiving than a stick. The stick drivers can't do full-throttle 1-2 shifts without feeling the rev limiter, and 2-3 shifts are only marginally better. That's based on riding in Rob's GTS during some street-tuning runs for Sharktuning. If it were mine, I'd be looking for a good 2.20 S4 autobox with stiffened LSD so the extra torque could actually do some work going down the road. The quicker GTS ratios will have you out of tach before top speed, and keep the engine busy at freeway hyper-cruise speeds.
