The setup of the multiplexing electrical system is now all done, except power-up. As I have had a few requests for information regarding the setup, I thought I would post the latest configuration sheets and an overview of where the system is located throughout the car.

Still have some cleaning up to do to make the installation neater, but it will work for now during the testing phase of all the electrical components that can be tested at this point. First picture is of the "CEB" with the CANBUS connections done (large yellow connectors). Second picture is of the general component location in the car, followed by the configuration sheets.

Each controller has its unique address on the CANBUS network, and are all controlled by the Master cell. The front Power cell has address #1, the rear Power cell has address #2, cabin Power cell has address #3, the InMotion controller has address #4 and finally the InDash Max unit is at address #5. The InDash Max unit also has a second CANBUS connector so any additional modules can be easily hooked up directly to it without the need for splicing into the main CANBUS harness.

The CANBUS harness has 4 wires, black (ground), red (power), blue and green (hi/lo signals). From the front Power cell, all 4 wires run to the Master cell (it gets its power from this connection). From the Master cell onwards only the blue and green wires are needed for communication, so the red and black wires can be cut in the remaining CANBUS harness. One exception is the connection for the InDash Max controller, which also needs a ground reference (black wire) so I spliced that unit in at the Master cell connection.

The Master cell has 50 inputs (some reserved for special functions), but even after my somewhat complex setup I still have around 15 empty inputs to use as needed. The Master cell takes these inputs (low voltage, milliamps) and commands the Power cells to do what the programming calls for. Each Power cell has 10 outputs, each capable of up to 25 Amps. Each Power cell gets its supply power (+12 hot) from the battery (rear power cell), jump post (front power cell) via Megafuses. So there is a drastic reduction in running power vires all over the car, and the only connection these cells need, is the CANBUS harness. Every output from the power cells are 12 AWG, so it is very "sturdy" and therefor will make wire bundles seem just as large as the stock system, but in reality there are less wiring in each harness (for the most part).

I have added many new functions, such as ambient (mood lighting) for the door pockets, under-seat lighting, door handle lighting etc. Also added the ability to turn on all cabin and trunk lights with one dedicated button, added a "headlight wash" button which just raises the headlights (also controllable via remote) for when it is time to wash the car, divided the cabin lights into sections which allows only the trunk lights to come on when the trunk is open, yet turn on all the interior lights when doors are opened or security is disabled. Disabling security also turns on instrument lights and switch lights for 1 minute so it is easier to see "things" when getting in the car in the dark. DRLs (Daylight running lights) are automatic when car is running, powering the fog lights via PWM at 70%, with no driver selection needed. There is also a dedicated mirror heat selector, independent of the rear defroster, yet they both turn on when rear defrost is set to high. At low, the rear defroster is PWM at 50%, 100% on high. Also put a 5 minute time limit on those items.

Cheers!
Carl

 

Wow!

 

Took the word right out of my mouth.

 

Very impressive.

This is the (only) way to go to resolve for once all those nagging and mysterious electrical gremlins.

Would it be too much to ask if you could do a short write-up that I could show to my mechanic to ask whether there is any hope of following your set-up?

Thanks.

MN

 

Wow! Is right!!!

 

Hi MN,

I could do that, it will be about a week as I'm on the road for work at the moment. PM me with what you need and any questions you have about the setup.

Cheers!
Carl

 

Some minor stuff accomplished this month, new upgraded 044 fuel pump and new filter installed, along with larger in-tank fuel strainer (larger outlet), new fuel line from hardline to fuel filter. Power for fuel pump is via a relay in spare wheel well, triggered by the ECU pump signal. Allows for shorter wire runs and less voltage drop.

Also had time to repair the disintegrating rear ABS harness, covered with split loom and sealed. Front bumper cover is also on and front lighting hooked up, power-up and test pictures next post.

Cheers!
Carl

 

I guess Christmas came early this year, received my 6 speed auto transmission, and while I wait for the torque tube and bell housing to arrive I started to assemble the mockup engine block. Attached the rubber motor mounts, common with a 2000 Camaro (LS1). Oil pan is a Holley pan, which needs some modification in order to clear the front cross member. It is amazing how much room there is around the engine when placed in the engine compartment. Also had some time to make the parking spot for the car a little more appropriate

Some quick and dirty pictures below.

Cheers!
Carl

 

This is going to be so nice when finished! Keep up the good work!

 

You are not exaggerating!

 

Thank you Gentlemen!

Hoping to get the car out to the shop in May for the transaxle install, provided life and work doesn't get in the way. Will post the details when that is done.

Cheers!
Carl

 

A couple of pictures of the 5-speed Porsche transmission next to the 6-speed automatic. Fairly compact for a 6-speed auto

Cheers!
Carl

 

Whatcha doin' with that crappy ol' G28.55 box?

 

It is going to a gentleman that needs a "new" one, shipping out Monday. Which reminds me I have to update the "for sale" thread

Cheers!
Carl

 

I'm still hoping that you enjoy the build more than driving .. and sell it to me

Lovely work.