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Rebuild of my 1980 Euro S

 
Old 01-05-2011, 04:33 AM
  #31  
Podguy
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Who did the cadmium plating on the hardware and how much did it cost you. Or is the hardware just painted?

Thanks
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Old 01-05-2011, 04:42 AM
  #32  
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Why mess with a three speed auto. Why not convert to a five speed. There are a couple of older transmissions on eBay at the moment that would work. The rest of the parts are easy to come by.
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Old 01-05-2011, 10:24 AM
  #33  
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Plating hardware is done by Superior Plating in London, ON. Canada (519-686-0803). It is zinc plated with a yellow di-chromate dip after. All hardware has the Hydrogen Embrittlement Relief (H.E.R) process done. Cost is free as I get it included in the stuff from work, and we stay under the 150lb limit.
I have confirmed the heads are "S" heads, block is stamped M28/12, and the trans is confirmed as a Euro S, but some PO changed the spider legs to non-S versions. I'll stay with the 3spd auto - too much hassle for me to change to 5spd.
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Old 01-05-2011, 10:35 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by BigAl1 View Post
I have confirmed the heads are "S" heads, block is stamped M28/12, and the trans is confirmed as a Euro S, but some PO changed the spider legs to non-S versions.
How did you check the heads?

Weird to change the legs. Maybe Porsche built it that way. Bigger legs would be good but I think it's the larger "S" throttle body you might be concerned about.
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Old 01-05-2011, 12:20 PM
  #35  
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BigAl1, Thanks for sharing your rebuild, I've enjoyed seeing your progress and comments from other 928 owners. I want to shed alittle light on your S or Non S motor. I to own a 1980 928S Euro and my engine block number is M28-11 not 12. I am very sure the 11 is correct because I've spent some serious dollars on parts, plus my owners manual says it's M28-11. If this means the M28-12 is US or Euro I can't say yes or no. I can say in 1980 the 4.7L in the 928S motor number is M28-11. Hope this helps.
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Old 01-05-2011, 12:54 PM
  #36  
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I think the M28-11 or 12 has to do with the transmission (flywheel?). I have a 12, but it was originally from an automatic car. I had to swap flywheels.

As Dan said the position of the WUR is in the "S" location, but the OP's intake runners are off a lower compression intake.
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Old 01-05-2011, 12:55 PM
  #37  
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Glen,
I checked the heads casting # - they are the 348 series heads. And, the OD of the throttle body is ~4", so I'm assuming ~3.5"ID, another Euro S clue. I still need to verify the plenum PN though.

toofer,
the M28/11 is for a manual trans engine, and the M28/12 is Auto trans engine. I'm sure it is a Euro S, just with the intake parts changed to non Euro version for some reason. Thanks for the comments, I will keep updating this thread during the rebuild. Hopefully next pics show some solid progress.
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Old 01-05-2011, 01:11 PM
  #38  
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BA, Project is coming along nicely and looks like you are enjoying the process. I had an 80 Euro S, auto, non-sunroof 16 years ago and it was great. Keep the pics and script flowing. We also are enjoying the process. 77Tony
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Last edited by 77tony; 03-31-2011 at 10:59 PM.
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Old 01-05-2011, 02:17 PM
  #39  
karl ruiter
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I've got and extra set of 'S' intake runners and an extra 'S' throttle body if you need. Most of us look at the intake runners to determine S/non S so it would seem like a bit of a shame to leave the non S runners on an S motor.
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Old 01-05-2011, 03:00 PM
  #40  
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^There ya go!^
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Old 01-05-2011, 04:04 PM
  #41  
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Karl,
PM sent - thanks!

Allan
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Old 01-06-2011, 11:48 PM
  #42  
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Well, 2 evenings in a row with great progress! Admittedly it is disassembly progress, but still going well! Got the car now completely stripped of every removable item from the firewall forward, and all the way underneath to the fuel tank. Nothing, nada, zero loose items! Now the real work begins with cleaning all those surfaces....
When removing the brake MC from the brake booster can, it hissed at me! Gave me a start for a moment - it still held vacume even after 3 months - amazing! The brake fluid looks clean, so encouraging that the calipers are ok, and the MC hopefully is not rusted.
The Euro headlights hydraulic adjuster lines still have oil in them, but one headlight assembly is missing the tiny plastic pushrod between the cylinder and the headlight mount ring, so I may have to make a copy for that side. I just clipped the hose right next to the cylinder nipple, so I can tear apart on the bench more carefully. I keep finding details that this car was damaged at the RH front corner, but seems it didn't get into the fender or hood front edge. I think the bumper bar was replaced, but the RH bumper mount (fixed, solid version) is still damaged, so I will repair it before reinstalling.
This whole project has grown much larger than originally planned for, but with winter here, this is a good time to do it. I figured, why not spend the time and effort now to get everything in the running gear as perfect as I can make it, and have no worries about those items for years. Still hoping to get it back on the ground in March, and hopefully have the engine back in and running MS3 for early summer.
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Old 01-07-2011, 10:23 AM
  #43  
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I replaced the hydraulic adjusters in the headlight assemblies with the ridged piece from US models. Keeps the headlights from bouncing after cracks and potholes. 928I had them...6 years ago. The PET shows them.
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Old 01-07-2011, 07:21 PM
  #44  
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You might consider changing to US style bumper shocks. The will slide right in and give you up to 5 MPH with no damage to the frame. These can be found on eBay for a resonable price. Broken ones can be refilled with oil. The cap in the end pops but can be rewelded or re-epoxyed. Thread in a zert fitting to refill.
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Old 01-07-2011, 09:54 PM
  #45  
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Thanks for the ideas. Keep them coming....
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