Rebuild of my 1980 Euro S
#1
Rebuild of my 1980 Euro S
Since we picked up the 928 at the end of August, it drove about 60 miles before putting it up on blocks for a thorough inspection. During the checkup, found the brake pads were almost done and several small things that added up to the decision to start a major section of the rebuild plan. Since then, the engine is out on the stand, the TT and trans pulled and all the suspension is out. My first group of parts was shipped today, so hopefully in the next couple weeks the rear area will start coming together. My plan (always being revised of course!) is to get all the suspension rebuilt, painted, plated, and detailed then move on to the engine bay strip and clean/paint. Last for this winter will be a teardown of the engine to reseal it (a giant grimy mess right now - yuck), and convert it to MS3. We are going to change the color from the dark metallic green (a poor repaint on top of the original) to Tahoe Blue, so the engine bay and wheel wells will be color matched now, so next winter the exterior can be repainted. Hopefully, we can drive it next spring and through next summer to work out the bugs. Overall, our goal is to rebuild this for reliability and performance so we can take crosscountry tours. I'm fortunate to have the full support of my SO, and she keeps pushing me to "get it done" - and she hasn't even rode in it yet!! Already this site has been invaulable for knowledge and help and I thank you all! I'll try to update this thread as it progresses.
#6
All my underside hardware from the firewall back was sent out for yellow zinc di-chromate plating today, and got all 4 shocks disassembled tonight. I'm going to trial our grit blasting at work on one of the aluminum ball joints to see if I like the surface texture, and if so, then probably blast clean all the castings (being careful to protect all the machined surfaces of course). Otherwise I'll be cleaning with chemicals and elbow grease.
Trending Topics
#9
grit blasting at work on one of the aluminum ball joints to see if I like the surface texture, and if so, then probably blast clean all the castings
#10
Thanks Greg - your thread about your rebuild was inspiring to me, and very helpful with all the pics and comments about what to watch for.
Rob, I'll be trying steel grit blasting on the old ball joint. After, it will be immersed in water to see if any shot is embedded in the aluminum and starts to rust.
Rob, I'll be trying steel grit blasting on the old ball joint. After, it will be immersed in water to see if any shot is embedded in the aluminum and starts to rust.
#12
Been selling Twinkies on Ebay,
have some extra cash right now.
Rennlist Member
have some extra cash right now.
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 6,746
Likes: 142
From: Working the street corner for $$$
I don't think that engine in post #1 is a Euro-S powerplant. The intake runners are the US non-S versions, narrower and longer. Maybe that is a non-S car w/ added spoilers?
Here is an "S" intake:
Here is an "S" intake:
#14
Erik,
I've wondered about the runners looking different, but the engine code is M28/12, and the VIN 92A0820533 checks out. From your pic, I think these would work better for the straight fuel rails I will use for the MS3 conversion.
I've wondered about the runners looking different, but the engine code is M28/12, and the VIN 92A0820533 checks out. From your pic, I think these would work better for the straight fuel rails I will use for the MS3 conversion.