anonymousagain

Mike - would be nice to get a 5psi and 7psi dyno run to compare the efficiency between the two...if not too much trouble while your on the rollers

Also, might consider relocating the air filter inside the bumper cover cavity, without the pre-filter sock. Actually, you could try removing the pre-filter in it's current location (provided there's no water concern), to see if it breaths a bit better...bet it does.

There's a lot of room for placement and air in the bumper cover, but mostly that you can get rid of the pre-filter sock. Seems strange, but quite a few have reported a pre-filter is a restriction to inlet air, with Turbo installs. I have had first hand experience with this on an ATV, needing to re-tune for a hard-pack track (sans Outerwears) on a big bore Raptor.

Might not be more than 3 or 4% significant, but hp is hp and away from the ground will keep the element cleaner longer anyway.

Just a suggestion.

killav

I have thought about the filter relocation thing, but there is just no way to get the filter routed back to that area with this set up. The turbo faces north/south under the car, and you would have to bring a pipe 180 degrees towards the back of the car, crossing over other stuff. The filter pipe would hang down really low and have a lot of bends.

I bought a 7psi spring a few weeks ago. I threw it in and gave the car a quick spin while sharktuning. The thing is a holy terror with the 7psi spring. COMPLETELY CHANGES THE CHARACTER OF THE CAR FROM THE 5PSI SPRING EVEN THOUGH I COULDN'T FLOOR THE CAR. The MAF and injectors were both maxing out way before I could open the throttle all the way. I took it back out and put the 5psi spring and tune back in. I know its only a 2 psi difference, but it really made a huge difference in the way the car pulls. That 7 psi is coming in so low in the rpm, the car just pulls like a freight train.

I have recenly ran into issues with the shark tuner that I am trying to work through. This has stopped me from finishing the 5 psi tune. Once I get this worked out, I will re-dyno the car at 5psi. But after that, 7psi , supermaf or supermaf harness interface and bigger injectors are in my very near future. I will dyno one more time after that.

John Speake

Try this one for sales and technical enquiries only:
johnthomas49(AT)msn.com

928mac

With the TEC-4 engine management system, the mass air flow (MAF) is removed and replaced with a straight temp sensor and a different MAP sensor
Top left of the picture

anonymousagain

Mike - if you can't re-clock the turbo, perhaps you can create a splash shield that will still allow removal of the pre-filter.

From the sound of your 7psi experiment, it seems you're setup is quite efficient !! Way to go and good luck sorting the tune.

SeanR

What issues are you running in to? The one over here should be right at 7psi to start, but it's intercooled and all sorts of bells that I'm tinkering with. I'd have had it started a few minutes ago but something else is not fitting right.

killav

Sean,

I'll have to call you. There is something going on with the Techedge wideband O2 module. It is giving me funky O2 correction readings all over the place, from -20 to +50 percent, and then the entire screen just goes to all dash's.

SeanR

Ok, gotcha.

928mac

Sean, what happens when you loose connection with the O2 sensor,
Dose the system default to a rich setting?

Jon B.

Will do. Thanks John.

Iwanna928

How are things going w/ this project?

Mongo

The Y-pipe connects to a 3" single pipe going backwards; is that a little too restrictive for a turbo converted 32v? I would think they would have chose 3.5", but I am sure it would be a bitch to fit both the charge pipe and exhaust pipe next to eachother if the OD was increased another 1/2" on the exhaust pipe.

killav

I can't say it enough, there just isn't what I would call lag with this system. The car is just not slower below the point at which it starts making more power from the extra air entering the cylinders. Even adding the turbo in the exhaust, which is a restriction, just didn't have enough of an effect to feel in my honest opinion. I drove the car for nearly four years before adding the turbo. I fixed everything, and bolted on an x-pipe, EIS intake system, etc, etc. all in search for more power. Now, I might get flamed for this, but to me, adding the single 3" exhaust and Y pipe gave me slightly more low end torque than before. That's my honest opinion.

The pipe is sized according to much research by the P-9 guys. My guess is that bigger pipe would just result in longer spool times. Three and a half inch pipe would just have to be stepped down to the inlet size flange of the turbo anyway. I can't remember the size of the turbo flange at the moment. I can tell you that the 3" pipe is not an issue with this system as far as not making power. If its choking the exhaust down at any point, I can't tell.

I finally got the shark tuner working properly again (my issue, not the ST's fault). I am currently making modifications to my PCV system and will post on that once complete. It's a hybrid type system that's all I can describe for now.

I will say, that I love power delivery of this system. And I am extremely happy with the end result. However, I expected to have to tinker with it. I mean, it is the first kit sold. It wasn't perfect. Yes, I bought stuff that was not inlcuded but most of it was optional. For the record, (and this is not all inclusive, just off the top of my head), I bought:

1. 24lb injectors-Optional-Not reqd with base kit(5PSI)
2. Blow off valve-Optional/Required??-I wanted one
3. Fuel pressure gauge-Required
4. Boost gauge-Required
5. A-pillar Pod-Kind of Required unless you custom designed something else.
6. Wire/connectors for the guages-Duh
7. Header wrap for the exhaust pipe-Optional
8. Big hose clamps for holding on the above-Optional
9. ****Exhaust tip modifications******

Number nine is a biggie. Because I fabricated my own exhaust from the turbo back. I bought a 3" Dynatech Splitfow muffler and V-band flange and custom fit this to the leaving hot side of the turbo. (I have a mig welder). The stock configuration is just a stainless steel exhaust tube. The exhaust was just to loud for my tastes. This GREATLY reduced the sound output and didn't effect spool times at all. I did all of the work over at Roger's house and he has heard the car run. I hope he will chime in on his thoughts about how the car sounded afterward.


And lastly I want to say that John Thomas was there for me every step of the way. We talked on the phone a lot both before and after I bought the kit. No, this kit is not as complete as say the Murf kit. But I didn't buy a supercharger, I bought a turbo.....

Landseer

Very, very, very cool. Nice work, great posts, please keep documenting.

Mongo

I actually like the tip on there already. Kinda looks like you're staring down one of the GE F110 engines on an F-14D.