Kick-down bypass switch - updates wanted
#1
Racer
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Kick-down bypass switch - updates wanted
Hi Everyone,
I was looking through the kickdown bypass switch (KDBS) posts and I wanted to hear what other owners have to say about it, specially from those who have installed a KDBS on their 928's. I have an '88 S4 with an AT.
A few questions I do have are:
1) Switch type: Is it better to have a) pushbutton type switch, where the kickdown is turned on only when the switch is pressed, or is it better to have b) a toggle switch, where you leave the kickdown on for a longer time? Or would c) a push-on/push-off type switch be better than a toggle switch?
2) Removed KDBS: Has anyone installed a KDBS and removed it? Why? Did it cause any problems or damage to your car?
3) Remote engine starter switch: I have this idea to buy one of those remote engine start switches (see photo) wire it up as a KDBS and clamp it to the AT shifter shaft, so the KDBS button would be at my fingertip. Has anyone done that?
After reading through all the previous posts on the KDBS, I am interested in trying on my car. I can see a number of ways of doing it, including wiring up a relay can to a click-on/click-off type switching.
It might make for a more fun and sporty driving situation.
Thanks in advance,
Joe
I was looking through the kickdown bypass switch (KDBS) posts and I wanted to hear what other owners have to say about it, specially from those who have installed a KDBS on their 928's. I have an '88 S4 with an AT.
A few questions I do have are:
1) Switch type: Is it better to have a) pushbutton type switch, where the kickdown is turned on only when the switch is pressed, or is it better to have b) a toggle switch, where you leave the kickdown on for a longer time? Or would c) a push-on/push-off type switch be better than a toggle switch?
2) Removed KDBS: Has anyone installed a KDBS and removed it? Why? Did it cause any problems or damage to your car?
3) Remote engine starter switch: I have this idea to buy one of those remote engine start switches (see photo) wire it up as a KDBS and clamp it to the AT shifter shaft, so the KDBS button would be at my fingertip. Has anyone done that?
After reading through all the previous posts on the KDBS, I am interested in trying on my car. I can see a number of ways of doing it, including wiring up a relay can to a click-on/click-off type switching.
It might make for a more fun and sporty driving situation.
Thanks in advance,
Joe
#2
Electron Wrangler
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Either type of switch can work. (momentary/latching)
Push switches work best for foot activation (eg on dead pedal) , I'd only suggest toggles where it is immediately to hand (handbrake cover, shifter, console). Persoanlly I don't like toggles anywhere in a car - they scream "AFTERMARKET" since no manufactirer uses them anymore (and hasn't for decades). So I'd go with a push/rocker switch of either type...
Personally if it were me I'd be looking at a push to make (momentary) switch on the dead pedal. Alternatively Jaeger makes a shifter **** with switch nicely integrated. For me keeping the switch on most of the time would make the car too aggressive for full time use...
I wouldn't add another relay - no partiucular reason to...
Alan
Push switches work best for foot activation (eg on dead pedal) , I'd only suggest toggles where it is immediately to hand (handbrake cover, shifter, console). Persoanlly I don't like toggles anywhere in a car - they scream "AFTERMARKET" since no manufactirer uses them anymore (and hasn't for decades). So I'd go with a push/rocker switch of either type...
Personally if it were me I'd be looking at a push to make (momentary) switch on the dead pedal. Alternatively Jaeger makes a shifter **** with switch nicely integrated. For me keeping the switch on most of the time would make the car too aggressive for full time use...
I wouldn't add another relay - no partiucular reason to...
Alan
#4
Drifting
I'd say hookup a temporary switch to see how you like it first.
My 90' S4 has the GTS dynamic kickdown relay and throttle switch installed, so it's plenty sporty on shifting. I experimented with the kickdown solenoid to see if I could get the car to start in first gear with activation, but found this wouldn't work on the later automatics.
My 90' S4 has the GTS dynamic kickdown relay and throttle switch installed, so it's plenty sporty on shifting. I experimented with the kickdown solenoid to see if I could get the car to start in first gear with activation, but found this wouldn't work on the later automatics.
#5
Former Vendor
For what it's worth, our upcoming window switch panel replacement has an empty spot that could easily be dedicated to a kick-down bypass.
Hans and I have talked about it. Easy implementation.
Paul
Hans and I have talked about it. Easy implementation.
Paul
#7
Rennlist Member
Not a big fan of the PKS. If you only drive on the street, and want to leave the car in "D" and let the tranny do the work, then the PKS is great. If you go on the track, or manually shift your car, the PKS can create some hairy situations. I actually have my stock kickdown switch disconnected, and shift the car manually 90 percent of the time.
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#8
Hey Adam,
I followed your recommendations in an old mailing list post on disabling kickdown for track driving, and it worked out very well. Kickdown switch disconnected under accelerator, kickdown relay removed, and a very loose bowden cable. Put them all together with the aftermarket shift handle and it's a very intuitive setup.
Thanks again for sharing that info
I followed your recommendations in an old mailing list post on disabling kickdown for track driving, and it worked out very well. Kickdown switch disconnected under accelerator, kickdown relay removed, and a very loose bowden cable. Put them all together with the aftermarket shift handle and it's a very intuitive setup.
Thanks again for sharing that info
#9
Racer
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Hi Adam,
Thanks, I fall into your first category of driver, put the AT in "Drive" and go.
I dont track the car, so I dont have to worry too much about "hairy" situations.
Joe
Thanks, I fall into your first category of driver, put the AT in "Drive" and go.
I dont track the car, so I dont have to worry too much about "hairy" situations.
Joe
#10
Rennlist Member
Mine is a momentary under the rubber on the top of the left foot rest - activated by rolling foot upwards so toe presses the swicth. Works fine. Once the solenoid at the box fires, it goes down a gear , and holds that gear until it reaches the natural change up speed for the amount of throittle you have applied. Note that you need to have some throttle in to it to get it to go down - it wont do it on trailing or light throttles (at least my 3speed wont). YMMV.
jp 83 Euro S AT 52k
jp 83 Euro S AT 52k
#11
Rennlist Member
Awesome Paul, I love that set up.
If I could reach 1st gear with a manual downshift in my A/T, I'd like it better than my 5 speed for the track.
If I could reach 1st gear with a manual downshift in my A/T, I'd like it better than my 5 speed for the track.
Hey Adam,
I followed your recommendations in an old mailing list post on disabling kickdown for track driving, and it worked out very well. Kickdown switch disconnected under accelerator, kickdown relay removed, and a very loose bowden cable. Put them all together with the aftermarket shift handle and it's a very intuitive setup.
Thanks again for sharing that info
I followed your recommendations in an old mailing list post on disabling kickdown for track driving, and it worked out very well. Kickdown switch disconnected under accelerator, kickdown relay removed, and a very loose bowden cable. Put them all together with the aftermarket shift handle and it's a very intuitive setup.
Thanks again for sharing that info
#12
Adam, I hear you on the 1st gear downshift 'lockout'. Even when I was running with a PKS, I could only downshift to 1st at 40kph or less. That was alright for street driving (merging in particular), but not much help at all on the track.
Fortunately that issue comes into play at just one of the smaller local tracks in my area. On the bigger tracks, I only need 1st as 'launch control' and use in 2nd and 3rd (4th only comes into play on back straight at Mosport).
Fortunately that issue comes into play at just one of the smaller local tracks in my area. On the bigger tracks, I only need 1st as 'launch control' and use in 2nd and 3rd (4th only comes into play on back straight at Mosport).
#13
Mine is a momentary under the rubber on the top of the left foot rest - activated by rolling foot upwards so toe presses the swicth. Works fine. Once the solenoid at the box fires, it goes down a gear , and holds that gear until it reaches the natural change up speed for the amount of throittle you have applied. Note that you need to have some throttle in to it to get it to go down - it wont do it on trailing or light throttles (at least my 3speed wont). YMMV.
jp 83 Euro S AT 52k
jp 83 Euro S AT 52k
#14
Rennlist Member
Joe,
Personally I recommend you forget the switch, simply cut the wires that run to the kickdown switch, run them through a 13 amp connector [or whatever] and loop a pair of wires back to a convenient location [just under the dash] with spade connectors to short out the kickdown permanently. Then, tighten the kick down cable by about 3 turns. I set mine until it is such that I can push the throttle very slightly without it changing up in top gear cruise and then have some fun. Cost- nothing/improvement immense. Once you get used to this you will not want to drive without it.
Personally I reckon the fun factor improvement outweights any debit by a factor of about 10,000 to 1 but that's my 2C's worth. Anyone serious about track work really should get a manual but the auto can still prove effective even in a track environment depending on what exactly one wants to achieve. The box is only really limitedby it's paltry 4 speeds and highish ratios.
I find this set up very predictable and controllable, first gear starts on part throttle guaranteed but there will always be a limitation on being able to get first gear above certain speeds [somewhere in the region of 40 to 50 kph it simply will not drop into first] and I know of no solution to that limitation.
Now if only we could fit a double whopper gangbanger [or whatever they are called by Porsche] 6 speed box. That would be interesting.
Best wishes
Fred R
Personally I recommend you forget the switch, simply cut the wires that run to the kickdown switch, run them through a 13 amp connector [or whatever] and loop a pair of wires back to a convenient location [just under the dash] with spade connectors to short out the kickdown permanently. Then, tighten the kick down cable by about 3 turns. I set mine until it is such that I can push the throttle very slightly without it changing up in top gear cruise and then have some fun. Cost- nothing/improvement immense. Once you get used to this you will not want to drive without it.
Personally I reckon the fun factor improvement outweights any debit by a factor of about 10,000 to 1 but that's my 2C's worth. Anyone serious about track work really should get a manual but the auto can still prove effective even in a track environment depending on what exactly one wants to achieve. The box is only really limitedby it's paltry 4 speeds and highish ratios.
I find this set up very predictable and controllable, first gear starts on part throttle guaranteed but there will always be a limitation on being able to get first gear above certain speeds [somewhere in the region of 40 to 50 kph it simply will not drop into first] and I know of no solution to that limitation.
Now if only we could fit a double whopper gangbanger [or whatever they are called by Porsche] 6 speed box. That would be interesting.
Best wishes
Fred R
#15
Joe,
Personally I recommend you forget the switch, simply cut the wires that run to the kickdown switch, run them through a 13 amp connector [or whatever] and loop a pair of wires back to a convenient location [just under the dash] with spade connectors to short out the kickdown permanently.
Personally I recommend you forget the switch, simply cut the wires that run to the kickdown switch, run them through a 13 amp connector [or whatever] and loop a pair of wires back to a convenient location [just under the dash] with spade connectors to short out the kickdown permanently.