Tuomo,
You know all this Rube Goldberg-esque fuel pump stuff isn't necessary and that a Walbro pump supplies 600+hp reliably, efficiently and quietly even at high pressures and through stock lines, right?

 

Just not enough carrot man, he hangs a big enough check in front of them and they will make it.

 

I gave up on the Aeromotive 16306 pump controller (and Aeromotive A-1000 fuel pump). This
combination should have higher flow numbers then the Bosch 044 and keep the fuel cooler, but
doesn't seem to be able to maintain the fuel pressure when the fuel gets hot, which it's suppose to
control (even at fuel pressures that are within it's working range (40-60 psi)). The pump controller
did not take care of the hot fuel issue, even though it does control the output of the pump. At this
point I'm going back to the Bosch 044 pump. I'm also going to the Weldon A2040-281-A-120 fuel
pressure regulator from the Aeromotive 13109 to see if it can maintain a 1-1 fuel pressure increase
with boost. I was told that it was one of the few fuel pressure regulators that could actually do this
consistently. I'll find out after my next series of "upgrades/corrections". If this does work, and I still
need more flow, then I'll add a second 044 that will come on under peak load.


My 16306 install... since removed and returned

 

That PWM board I linked to is like 7 dollars. It will multiply it by 6 and you are done. Seriously.

 

Sure they are telling me to go away, but in an Un-American way. The American way is to quote me $12,000 for the controller, in which case I will go away. But they don't know that for sure, so what's the downside for them to quote $12,000?

The country has been turning socialist over the last five years. This is just one indication.

 

If my plan would be to make some puny 640 hp, then I would have just bolted on the 044 and lived happily ever after! ;-)

I ordered that board just because I may need it for another project. However, it will not work for this project. The reason is that if I feed 0-12V signal to it, I'll smell that familiar scent of burned electronics. The board only works for 0-5V pwm signal.

 

You're reading too much into it (or you're looking for an opportunity to make a political statement.) It is most likely the case that the person you are talking to is an order taker rather than a sales person - or hasn't been given the authority to think beyond the product line they currently offer.

 

Mostly it was just humor on my part. Fortunately, I am still not taking this project too seriously. When it gets serious, it often is less fun.

The $12,000 figure was also a joke...

 

Tuomo - I didn't catch that the signal is 12V. You could always buy a MS3 and just run it in piggyback-shadow and run the pump with any PWM duty cycle you want. That would be expensive, but much less than 12,000 dollars.

I think this should be the impetus for you going aftermarket ECU for your project.

 

I've been pretty busy at work recently and the project has slowed down a bit, but today I had a chance to test some of my ideas for the low-compression engine. The lowering the compression only makes sense if I am going to increase boost and advance timing, which I will of course do.

In preparation for the higher boost levels, I've been looking at how to attached the MAF to the engine more securely. The goal is again to keep it all as close to stock as possible. I can see a couple of problems with the stock arrangement. First, the clamp and the throttle body and MAF housing are made of incompatible materials in terms of thermal expansion. Second, the strapping of the clamp to the MAF housing and then having the tiny rubber boot lip hold it all together isn't sufficient for 20 psi of boost, let alone 25 or 30 psi.

The first thing I did was order some constant torque clamps to address the thermal expansion issue.



The clamps come with three bandwidths. The wide one is too wide for this project. The middle one is 16mm and the narrow one is 14mm. 14mm is still wider than the stock clamp, I believe.



I needed to clearance the MAF boot a little bit to fit any of the clamps. I am experimenting with an old and tired MAF boot.



Breeze's Aero-Seal Constant-Torque 9452 clamp seems to fit pretty well to connect the MAF boot to the throttle body. That connection hasn't been the problem, though.



CT-9452 would otherwise be good for the MAF housing side, but there's a problem. The clamp's diameter is not large enough to connect the MAF boot to the MAF housing. Sorry.



CT 400 and CT 450 would be good in terms of the diameter, but the 16mm bandwidth is too wide. I can't groove the MAF that close to the edge, because there's deep groove on the other side, inside the housing.



The conclusion is that I'll need a 14mm or narrower clamp with a diameter about 4.25" to this side. I didn't think such a constant-torque clamp existed, but one supplier said that he has CT-9472 clamp that could be shortened to fit here. That was encouraging, since I can't find such a clamp in the Breeze catalogs, let's see what I get when the snails carry the merchandise here.

 

A quick update:

CT-9452 on the throttle-body side and CT-9472 on the MAF housing side seem to work pretty well. A little clearancing of the MAF boot was needed, but the bandwidth is narrow enough that one can probably cut a similar-width groove to the MAF housing.

 

If you want to run 25-30 psi of boost I would completely remake that rubber elbow in aluminum and weld V-band clamps to the maf and intake to hold it all together.

 

If this doesn't work out, then I'll try the silicone boot. If that doesn't work, then a metal elbow next.

At 30 psi, 10 square inches or so of area means 300 pound force trying to pop the MAF out of the boot. John Kuhn's air box is attached to the engine block in a way that shoulders some of that load, but not all. I am banking on the grooved MAF housing and these constant-torque clamps to both shoulder some of the load pulling the MAF housing out of the boot and also sealing the boot against the MAF housing.

We'll see.

 

The factory clamps (for mine) are a perfect width, IMO the boot will burst before the clamp will come out of the grove.

 

I'm not saying the elbow won't work. Just that for the amount of work you are putting into it I'd make it in metal and be done with it. I run 28 psi on my Audi and it has 5 silicon connectors in the intake tract with 360* clamps. I've never blown one off in 15,000 miles of driving.