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Okay. How do I time these cams (cam card info)

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Old 02-09-2010 | 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by GregBBRD
Cam timing session on Rob's engine Friday at the shop.

Censored pictures allowed...don't want Carl to come up with any more "new" products, based on stuff I make...

By invitation from Rob only.
Originally Posted by Mike Simard
You could have fun with that. Include JB Weld somehow and then watch in amusement as your JB Weld instructions get copied and pasted into other "new products"!

Brendan, if they do invite you, make time for it and bring presents. That's definately something worth learning. I'm going to 'degree' cams later today too. I'm so excited!
I contacted Rob and Rob says its Greg's shop and he can do anything he wants. I'm thinking "Theme Party".

kidding.
Old 02-09-2010 | 11:15 AM
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I'll bring the engine!
Old 02-09-2010 | 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by GregBBRD
Cam timing session on Rob's engine Friday at the shop.

Censored pictures allowed...don't want Carl to come up with any more "new" products, based on stuff I make...

By invitation from Rob only.
Is this the "Intro to Cam Timing" class or is this one of the advanced classes? Wish you guys were right down the street or "just a coupla hours" drive from me. I learn much better from doing than reading. I guess I'll just try to get Sterling to come over when I get to that point.

Last edited by soontobered84; 02-09-2010 at 12:27 PM. Reason: addition
Old 02-09-2010 | 01:31 PM
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Just mount them up and do it the old fashion way. Start at about 45 degrees before TDC and zero the micrometer. At 20 degrees after TDC, the #1 or #6 lifter should be depressed about 2mm. With a more agressive profile, you might even want to look at 1-1.5mm, because with your 7000rpm motor, you want to have the cams slightly retarded anyway. remember, we did the dyno test with advanced like GT vs retarded like 85s and hp gain was only around 5, and the torque loss was about 20 (peak), at a rpm that I dont use in racing. So.....
There you go, DONE!

mk
Old 02-09-2010 | 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by mark kibort
just mount them up and do it the old fashion way. Start at about 45 degrees before TDC and zero the micrometer. at 20 degrees after TDC, the lifter should be depressed about 2mm.
There you go, DONE!

mk
I think he wants it set up to the specs on the cam card, not to the specs of the opening of the stock cams.
Old 02-09-2010 | 02:00 PM
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fine,then just set it up for 4mm movement at TDC for the intake.

Those cams are nothing like the S3 cams. they start to open at near 45degree BTDC and are at 4mm at TDC. Then, the lift is well over the S3 cams as well.

Anyway, if he just sets it to 4mm at TDC starting from 50 degrees BTDC, he will orient the cams where the cart wants them to be. Right?

mk

Originally Posted by blown 87
I think he wants it set up to the specs on the cam card, not to the specs of the opening of the stock cams.
Old 02-09-2010 | 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by mark kibort
fine,then just set it up for 4mm movement at TDC for the intake.

Those cams are nothing like the S3 cams. they start to open at near 45degree BTDC and are at 4mm at TDC. Then, the lift is well over the S3 cams as well.

Anyway, if he just sets it to 4mm at TDC starting from 50 degrees BTDC, he will orient the cams where the cart wants them to be. Right?

mk
I have no idea.
Old 02-09-2010 | 02:14 PM
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Also I noticed valve lift vs cam lift are different (i.e. .5" vs .35"). is that because of a base circle grind down? curious.
Old 02-09-2010 | 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Sterling
I wish I was closer... I spent quite a bit of time degree'ing cams when I was setting up my variocam years ago....
I sometimes get myself confused (not too hard) and end up looking at a degree wheel to figure it all out. I'm afraid that my brain would spontaneously combust if I tried to figure out a vario cam. My hat is off to you!
Old 02-09-2010 | 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Simard
You could have fun with that. Include JB Weld somehow and then watch in amusement as your JB Weld instructions get copied and pasted into other "new products"!
Old 02-09-2010 | 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by mark kibort
fine,then just set it up for 4mm movement at TDC for the intake.

Those cams are nothing like the S3 cams. they start to open at near 45degree BTDC and are at 4mm at TDC. Then, the lift is well over the S3 cams as well.

Anyway, if he just sets it to 4mm at TDC starting from 50 degrees BTDC, he will orient the cams where the cart wants them to be. Right?

mk
I sure as hell hope they are nothing like S3 cams. I said they were the original S3 cams changed to these specs by grinding. I paid over 1000 dollars a few years ago to get these ground like this. They BETTER be different.
Old 02-09-2010 | 03:10 PM
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When you have cams ground don't you specify how you plan to install them, straight up or whatever?

Who is bringing the donuts?

I could bring my HF dial guage.
Old 02-09-2010 | 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by danglerb
When you have cams ground don't you specify how you plan to install them, straight up or whatever?
Yeah, like we are smart enough to know what that means!
Old 02-09-2010 | 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by danglerb
When you have cams ground don't you specify how you plan to install them, straight up or whatever?

Who is bringing the donuts?

I could bring my HF dial guage.
I was new to the process. If specifying their installation was possible, I would have done it. It was a "grind" that was available through my chosen vendor - and he sent them somewhere else.

Since then, I have attempted to get the true information on them so I could accomplish this important task, and I just never got a straight answer, other than "when you want to put them in, call us"

That's not how you learn. But I am learning now.
Old 02-09-2010 | 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by mark kibort
Also I noticed valve lift vs cam lift are different (i.e. .5" vs .35"). is that because of a base circle grind down? curious.
No. The software probably wanted an input on that, but I just asked him for the lobe info. True lift would be engine specific, I think.


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