Herman K

I got one of the latest short shifter kits from Roger and I'm previewing the installation. It appears that beside drilling the two holes to mount the supporting cross bracket which will hold the new short shifter (which has a center rotating bearing) I will need to remove the front guide tube all to gether or cut of a part of the it's fork together its shaft that normally fits in the upper hole of the original shifter.

Removing the guide tube requires a lot more work than anticipated so I'm in clined to cut of the end as shown in the attached drawings and pictures.

If there's ever a need to go back to the factory configuration then a replacement guide tube needs to be installed or reweld the cut piece.

This post is for other to chime in or for does that have done this one before to share their experience.

Thanks

tibbcat

oh no, it's a red car... i can't drive a red car!!!

soontobered84

Herman,
I haven't installed this, but could the front guide tube(#15) not be unscrewed from the ball cup assembly? (providing that the locking nut (#21) is not locked in too tight) The idea is, I'm guessing, to get the tube out of the way. I know that sometimes those locking nuts are not all that tight. You could just leave the existing ball cup in place.

Lizard928

A few things to note.

Please ensure that you put 4 divits with a center punch around the outside of the bearing (both sides). The bearing is an interference fit, but it still needs these divits!

As well your support bracket is upside down!
You also need to ensure that the bracket has the raised lip facing the bearing.

The front guide tube does NOT need to be removed or cut.
To undo it rotate it CW. If you rotate it CCW and the previous person to replace the ball cup did not tighten the pal nut properly then it will could undo the shift rod. If this nut is loose to start with then you will need to turn the front rod more than normal. But it will tighten up and allow you to pop the ball cup off without pulling the exhaust and heat shields. Once the ball cup is off its mount then you just push down and then forward and the guide tube is out of the way. You can leave it there for removal at a later time. Or you can drill 2 more holes as per JB to be able to unbolt the second bushing for that tube from above.

I do see that your center console has been damaged previously, but I would strongly recommend that you remove it for this installation.
As well to note the bushings in the universal joint must have no real play. If there is wear in these componants and you have new bushing in there, you can take 1 of the plastic bushings from the factory shifter to shim the play out of it.

As well if your alignment of the shift lever is not perfect, it can be adjusted at the sleeve on the front of the rear universal adapter.

Jadz928

Colin,
Could Loctite be used? Figured it may make it easier if it ever needs to be disassembled.

Herman K

I have put in the divits but I found that the Short shifter doesn't give me the required angle to engaged reverse or 1st gear I'll post some pics. Send me a PM with your phone number we should talk

Thx

Jadz928

Reads like you rear coupler is not indexed (or clocked) correctly.

Loosen rear coupler (inspect bushes, most likely replace)
Disengage coupler from spline shaft (by pulling shift lever aft),
Note position of shift lever, and move lever to the right (in your case),
Engage spline with coupler (by pushing shift lever forward),
Lock coupler,
Test.

Ispeed

That shifter looks like the future, just like the pork tensioner. I see that now any adjustment will need to be dona at the rear coupler pinch bolt.
I have $400 worth of short shifter and related parts into my BMW 540 shifter and it is crap next to the 928 with the old short shifter and stuff. If the new one is any better that would be something.

Lizard928

Jim,
Loctite is not required for any of the bolts for this.
And you are correct after having seen some other pictures from Herman when he had replaced the rear bushings the front shift rod was indeed not attached correctly to the universal.

Herman,
I do not have cell service or a land line where I am. I will try to get your number to give you a call though.
What I would recommend doing is to undo or loosen the pinch bolt on the rear shift tube. This is just forward of the universal joint. Once it is released then ensure that the tranny is in neutral (if you have nuetral centering (later cars). Then with the shifter attached and bolted in have a helper inside the car move the shifter left and right. The shift tube should rotate but the universal coupler should not.
Once you have obtained this setting again ensure that the tranny is in neutral and place the lever with the ball bearing being either bang in the middle. Or ever so slightly as if you are in the 4/5 plain.
Also ensure that it is straight up and down, (for/aft), or slightly leaning towards the front of the car.
Once this is done tighten down that pinch bolt and try to find the gears.
If they are not availible then there is wear on the componants of the universal coupler. This is easily solved by shimming it with one of the small plastic bushings cut in half.

Lizard928

For anyone reading this, this shifter will remove around 65-70% of the stock throw and it will have a very gated feeling. You would really need to be asleep to miss shift with it.
It makes a HUGE differenc.

ROG100

The shifter sells for $156 and includes the bushes for the coupler.
It will also have bronze bushings for the rear coupler with no elongated hole.
These are due to arrive shortly.

FUSE69

Damn... something else for the winter project list....

Lizard928

Ok I found the link I was looking for, Thanks Carl.

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...fter-slop.html

This is what I am talking about reducing the play from worn parts. However when I do this I press out the pin as if I am going to be replacing the factory bushings and I then put these plastic bushings in from the center out. I also would just cut a factory one in half and instead of trying to take up the for/aft play, put it on the bottom (as if installed in car) to eliminate any sideways play. Then reinstall the pin and you are good to go. The Bronze bushing Rog speaks of is the better way to go but may be too connected for some people.

Lizard928

Horrible isnt it!

Jadz928

So you've installed the bronze bushes?

Good thing about them is no need to press out the couplers center pin. These can just press in from the sides.