Install latest Short Shifter and planned mods...
02-01-2010, 07:58 PM
#76
The Parts Whisperer
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02-01-2010, 09:26 PM
#77
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Mark,
You need a set of the 928sRus rear coupler bushes, bronze, oil impregnated and teflon coated bore for your race car. Or do you not use that setup.
Maybe you have the more superior rogerbox.
Roger
You need a set of the 928sRus rear coupler bushes, bronze, oil impregnated and teflon coated bore for your race car. Or do you not use that setup.
Maybe you have the more superior rogerbox.
Roger
__________________
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
George Layton March 2014928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
02-18-2010, 11:09 AM
#78
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A word to the wise on Rogers shift coupler upgrade to bronze bushings. Definately use a torch on the allen bolt that holds the rear. There is loctite on there and I almost stripped the bolt leaving it near impossible to remove. Also don't be a dummy like me and drive the coupler pin out without letting everything cool down from the torch. Doh!
02-18-2010, 01:00 PM
#79
Nordschleife Master
I have had one of the allen bolts strip on me as well.
I used a right angle drill and drilled out 80% of the threads. Then it came off and once it was out I used an extractor on the bench. I then took a bolt and put a point on the end and used that instead of the allen key. Now I have a 13mm bolt head to be able to undo it.
I used a right angle drill and drilled out 80% of the threads. Then it came off and once it was out I used an extractor on the bench. I then took a bolt and put a point on the end and used that instead of the allen key. Now I have a 13mm bolt head to be able to undo it.
02-18-2010, 05:35 PM
#80
Rennlist Member
A word to the wise on Rogers shift coupler upgrade to bronze bushings. Definately use a torch on the allen bolt that holds the rear. There is loctite on there and I almost stripped the bolt leaving it near impossible to remove. Also don't be a dummy like me and drive the coupler pin out without letting everything cool down from the torch. Doh!
If it's only a matter of removing the existing OE plastic bushing, remove it with heat, melt it out.
In many cases the plastic bushing is dissentigrated or about to fall apart. Just break the rest of it out of the coupler with a screwdriver, and press in the bronze bushing.
02-18-2010, 06:03 PM
#81
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If you are using the bronze bushings which presses in, why remove the pin to assemble it?
If it's only a matter of removing the existing OE plastic bushing, remove it with heat, melt it out.
In many cases the plastic bushing is dissentigrated or about to fall apart. Just break the rest of it out of the coupler with a screwdriver, and press in the bronze bushing.
If it's only a matter of removing the existing OE plastic bushing, remove it with heat, melt it out.
In many cases the plastic bushing is dissentigrated or about to fall apart. Just break the rest of it out of the coupler with a screwdriver, and press in the bronze bushing.
Well atleast I know what to do on the new one.
04-09-2010, 12:32 AM
#85
Nordschleife Master
Ducman,
You need to ensure that your bushings in the rear are either new bushing with no play. I say this as I saw 1 housing that had some wear and new bushing still had tons of play. This can be shimmed up using the plastic type bushing in the bottom of the shifter lever. To do this you cut them in half and slide them into the bushings.
The other option is to install brass bushings from Roger.
If you have installed the bushings or have no play in the rear then that means that the adjuster at the rear needs to be adjusted.
To do this loosen the M8 pinch bolt on the shift rod to universal joint with the car in 4th gear. To do this use 2 13mm wrenchs, or sockets. Then have a helper hold the shifter as if it is in 4th gear. While the lever is being held into 4th gear tighten the pinch bolt. This will ensure that it is properly adjusted.
Once these are done you will be able to access all gears.
You need to ensure that your bushings in the rear are either new bushing with no play. I say this as I saw 1 housing that had some wear and new bushing still had tons of play. This can be shimmed up using the plastic type bushing in the bottom of the shifter lever. To do this you cut them in half and slide them into the bushings.
The other option is to install brass bushings from Roger.
If you have installed the bushings or have no play in the rear then that means that the adjuster at the rear needs to be adjusted.
To do this loosen the M8 pinch bolt on the shift rod to universal joint with the car in 4th gear. To do this use 2 13mm wrenchs, or sockets. Then have a helper hold the shifter as if it is in 4th gear. While the lever is being held into 4th gear tighten the pinch bolt. This will ensure that it is properly adjusted.
Once these are done you will be able to access all gears.
04-09-2010, 10:27 AM
#86
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Duc,
You need one man in the car, one at the rear coupler. We did this a while back at Brads. I had to get in the car and make sure the shifter was where it needed to be. I think the manual says that the position of the shifter in neutral is 2 degrees aft lean and 2 degrees to the left lean. I just eyeballed it and once everything was where it needed to be, brad tightened up everything under the car.
The first go round, I could not get it into 4th or 5th.
Good luck!
You need one man in the car, one at the rear coupler. We did this a while back at Brads. I had to get in the car and make sure the shifter was where it needed to be. I think the manual says that the position of the shifter in neutral is 2 degrees aft lean and 2 degrees to the left lean. I just eyeballed it and once everything was where it needed to be, brad tightened up everything under the car.
The first go round, I could not get it into 4th or 5th.
Good luck!
04-09-2010, 12:10 PM
#87
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The shift lever was running into the mounting bolt and the bracket (red arrows). I created two tiny sleeve shims (inner diameter of the bolt) to give it a little more breathing room and it's fine now. I did replace the bushings with Rogers in the rear coupler. Maybe I'm doing it wrong but there was no way you could reach reverse/1st and 5th gears without it getting bound up on the head of the bolt and the mounting bracket. I had three different people look at it and adjusted about 20 times with one person in the car and one at the coupler on a lift. I would love to know if I'm missing something...
It is a great product once you get it figured out though. I love it!
It is a great product once you get it figured out though. I love it!
04-09-2010, 03:29 PM
#88
i might have to try the adjustment in the rear. so do i have it held in 4th or (far forward right) in gear, lift the car and slip the splines off, then on again? id hate to shim more if i dont have too. i ground the inside points off the bolt for clearance that way, seamed to help a little....
04-09-2010, 10:59 PM
#90
Nordschleife Master
Answered in other thread.
However you just need to make sure the pinch bolt is loose and it will slide on the 'splines' as they are more just grooves and the inner bore of the shift rod is smooth.
I recommend the 4th gear method as some trannies automatically go to the 4/5 plane and others the 2/3 plane. This just bypasses that confusion.
However you just need to make sure the pinch bolt is loose and it will slide on the 'splines' as they are more just grooves and the inner bore of the shift rod is smooth.
I recommend the 4th gear method as some trannies automatically go to the 4/5 plane and others the 2/3 plane. This just bypasses that confusion.
