Making Rear Fender Flares W/Pics
11-02-2008, 11:10 PM
#32
Rennlist Member
what do you mean "glue on"? I know most of the shops are using glue instead of welding now and using very little bondo for these kinds of mods.
what did you do on the fronts. those look pretty wide too! (and great shape)
mk
what did you do on the fronts. those look pretty wide too! (and great shape)
mk
11-03-2008, 12:16 AM
#33
Pro
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Québec, Québec, Canada
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I am not a welding kind of guy, but I have seen some work done. In order to obtain an arc line that is "controlable" and durable, You may want to use a solid 1/4" steel bar, bend it into the shape that You want the arc to be, anchor it in the front, and in the back if possible, and weld the cut-out tongues and filler prieces onto this solid bar.
See the attached picture for clarification. The solid bar is red on the picture. The car on the picture ended up with 18" X 12½" wheels IIRC.
Either way, best of luck with Your project.
Ragnar
See the attached picture for clarification. The solid bar is red on the picture. The car on the picture ended up with 18" X 12½" wheels IIRC.
Either way, best of luck with Your project.
Ragnar
This pics just make me feel bad watching it.
11-03-2008, 09:35 AM
#35
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
11-03-2008, 10:06 AM
#36
Hey Ed
If you want to rivet or weld on a new pc....I still have the patterns from when I made mine. I have a few sizes that I experimented with. I actually wanted the rivets to show so I made them from aluminum. If you wanted to weld them you could use carbon steel.
If you want to rivet or weld on a new pc....I still have the patterns from when I made mine. I have a few sizes that I experimented with. I actually wanted the rivets to show so I made them from aluminum. If you wanted to weld them you could use carbon steel.
11-03-2008, 11:02 AM
#37
Burning Brakes
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Not sure if was Abby-Louisiana-, or, our oft missing South Africaner's 'Bully' but should be similar pics
in the archives.
I'm lazy...so I'd fit after market something or others .
That's a LOT of work.
Rust...the horror, the horror, don't forget to radius those cuts to prevent cracking.
in the archives.
I'm lazy...so I'd fit after market something or others .
That's a LOT of work.
Rust...the horror, the horror, don't forget to radius those cuts to prevent cracking.
My car is a wide body fibreglass jobby. Different kettle of fish.
Cheers,
Pierre.
11-03-2008, 02:20 PM
#38
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
Thanks,Ed.
11-03-2008, 03:54 PM
#39
Hi Dave,That would be cool,do you have them as a CAD file or cardboard/metal template?It would be interesting to see how close I could come to duplicating your and tony's look.As I got further into this the shape started to take a turn for the worst but at least I'm learnin' somtin'!Thanks,Ed.
Thanks,Ed.I can get you some clean templates right off of my car. They will be posterboard so I'll just roll them up and mail them to you. It helps a lot if you have a slip-roll and beading or edge rolling tools.
11-03-2008, 05:06 PM
#42
Rennlist Member
11-11-2008, 01:49 PM
#44
Three Wheelin'
Sorry, I've been out away from home for a week or so. I attended the SEMA show in Las Vegas and visited friends in Berzerkeley, CA.
Sure, the fenders will fit on OBs. The fender flares have a flange on the bottom that bolt to the S4/GTS rear bumper cover where it comes forward to the rear of the wheel well cutout. You'd cut that flange off. Your OB has metal in that area and you'd leave the metal in place of the S4 bumper cover in that area. Leave a couple extra inches of metal above the seam where the new fender joins and bond the metal to the inside of the new fender. It would be the same as how the fender is bonded to the body in front of the vertical joint of the bumper cover and body. I'll post some pics that might help explain as I've had some other inquires about this.
Sure, the fenders will fit on OBs. The fender flares have a flange on the bottom that bolt to the S4/GTS rear bumper cover where it comes forward to the rear of the wheel well cutout. You'd cut that flange off. Your OB has metal in that area and you'd leave the metal in place of the S4 bumper cover in that area. Leave a couple extra inches of metal above the seam where the new fender joins and bond the metal to the inside of the new fender. It would be the same as how the fender is bonded to the body in front of the vertical joint of the bumper cover and body. I'll post some pics that might help explain as I've had some other inquires about this.
11-11-2008, 02:44 PM
#45
Rennlist Member
Ott Fender Flare install on OB
Here are pics of Ken Osage's OB with the Ott flares.
Ken chopped the rear lower section of the native panel off because he is installing an S4 rear bumper cover.
Here's the driver side after the bonding process is complete:
Here's the install after blending. It's awesome, but not quite up to Ken's standards, he's going to be putting a little more time into it to make it perfect:
My S4 is going to Ken's shop on Wednesday to get the process started. Should be cool, I'll post all the gory details (on a new thread, sorry for the OT OBehave).
Ken chopped the rear lower section of the native panel off because he is installing an S4 rear bumper cover.
Here's the driver side after the bonding process is complete:
Here's the install after blending. It's awesome, but not quite up to Ken's standards, he's going to be putting a little more time into it to make it perfect:
My S4 is going to Ken's shop on Wednesday to get the process started. Should be cool, I'll post all the gory details (on a new thread, sorry for the OT OBehave).