Making Rear Fender Flares W/Pics
11-11-2008, 03:07 PM
#46
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Just for fun, if you wanna get really crazy you could go with the "944 influenced monster flares".
These monsters are made of Kevlar and only weigh 3 lbs each. If memory recalls Bob DeVore made a couple sets of these back in the late 80s for his 78 6.2L Racer. I am pretty sure the matching fronts to the rear ones I have are currently on James Morrison's 928 Racer.
They add at least 5-6 inches to each side so it would be like driving a dually :-)
BTW Louie, your flares look great on Ken's 928.... NICE!!!!
These monsters are made of Kevlar and only weigh 3 lbs each. If memory recalls Bob DeVore made a couple sets of these back in the late 80s for his 78 6.2L Racer. I am pretty sure the matching fronts to the rear ones I have are currently on James Morrison's 928 Racer.
They add at least 5-6 inches to each side so it would be like driving a dually :-)
BTW Louie, your flares look great on Ken's 928.... NICE!!!!
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11-16-2008, 02:34 PM
#48
Three Wheelin'
Sorry, I've been out away from home for a week or so. I attended the SEMA show in Las Vegas and visited friends in Berzerkeley, CA.
Sure, the fenders will fit on OBs. The fender flares have a flange on the bottom that bolt to the S4/GTS rear bumper cover where it comes forward to the rear of the wheel well cutout. You'd cut that flange off. Your OB has metal in that area and you'd leave the metal in place of the S4 bumper cover in that area. Leave a couple extra inches of metal above the seam where the new fender joins and bond the metal to the inside of the new fender. It would be the same as how the fender is bonded to the body in front of the vertical joint of the bumper cover and body. I'll post some pics that might help explain as I've had some other inquires about this.
Sure, the fenders will fit on OBs. The fender flares have a flange on the bottom that bolt to the S4/GTS rear bumper cover where it comes forward to the rear of the wheel well cutout. You'd cut that flange off. Your OB has metal in that area and you'd leave the metal in place of the S4 bumper cover in that area. Leave a couple extra inches of metal above the seam where the new fender joins and bond the metal to the inside of the new fender. It would be the same as how the fender is bonded to the body in front of the vertical joint of the bumper cover and body. I'll post some pics that might help explain as I've had some other inquires about this.
https://rennlist.com/forums/attachme...1&d=1226860195
https://rennlist.com/forums/attachme...1&d=1226860195
Last edited by Louie928; 06-13-2013 at 05:13 PM.
11-16-2008, 05:07 PM
#50
Drifting
Pierre,
What kind of foam did you guys use? I'm looking to make some flares for the front of my car from fiberglass, and I'm curious as to what the most economical way to fashion the molds is.
What kind of foam did you guys use? I'm looking to make some flares for the front of my car from fiberglass, and I'm curious as to what the most economical way to fashion the molds is.
11-16-2008, 05:12 PM
#51
Burning Brakes
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Urethane, but not the DIY kind you buy from regular hardware stores. Get it from guys who supply the fiber glass industry.
11-16-2008, 05:57 PM
#52
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Dec 2005
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Dupont urethane sheet foam, available in 48 x 48 inch in almost any thickness you need. I buy it in 2", 4", and 6" thickness. I use it for for building custom refrigeration boxes in yachts too.
It isn't very expensive - and you can bruise it with your finger. Make sure you keep it wrapped and protected at all times.
NOT what the SO wants you transporting in the car... it will be everywhere!
It is extremely easy to shape, sometimes TOO easy, and resistent to polyester resin. It shapes real easy with a stanley surform file blade.
When you have the shape you like, seal it first with a light coat of polyester resin, no cloth, and then start your glass work.
Highly recommended to wear a good dust mask at all times.
http://www.generalplastics.com/produ...il.php?pid=19&
BTW Pierre... Great looking car!
It isn't very expensive - and you can bruise it with your finger. Make sure you keep it wrapped and protected at all times.
NOT what the SO wants you transporting in the car... it will be everywhere!
It is extremely easy to shape, sometimes TOO easy, and resistent to polyester resin. It shapes real easy with a stanley surform file blade.
When you have the shape you like, seal it first with a light coat of polyester resin, no cloth, and then start your glass work.
Highly recommended to wear a good dust mask at all times.
http://www.generalplastics.com/produ...il.php?pid=19&
BTW Pierre... Great looking car!
11-17-2008, 06:47 PM
#54
Three Wheelin'
11-17-2008, 09:00 PM
#55
Rennlist Member
Here's my now Niizazzed S4.
Thanks to Ken Osage, John Davis, and Tom Middleton for helping with the install, and of course for Louie for designing these awesome things. I'll start a new thread on the installation process. All told, I think it took about 18 hours.
Thanks to Ken Osage, John Davis, and Tom Middleton for helping with the install, and of course for Louie for designing these awesome things. I'll start a new thread on the installation process. All told, I think it took about 18 hours.
Last edited by atb; 11-17-2008 at 09:59 PM.
11-17-2008, 09:10 PM
#56
Three Wheelin'
Thanks for posting that pic. It shows off the curves way better than a hundred pictures of my white car. Where is the air intake hole?
11-17-2008, 09:57 PM
#57
Rennlist Member
I haven't done any venting (yet). 
On the one hand, I wanted to see the car with the curves intact, and I'm liking what I'm seeing.
If I decide to go forward with putting in scoops, it shouldn't be too difficult with the fenders on the car. I'm still not sure that I'll be able to plumb the tranny coolers in the way that I want, so I may just leave the stock set up at the front of the car with the additional cooler up there.
On the one hand, I wanted to see the car with the curves intact, and I'm liking what I'm seeing.
If I decide to go forward with putting in scoops, it shouldn't be too difficult with the fenders on the car. I'm still not sure that I'll be able to plumb the tranny coolers in the way that I want, so I may just leave the stock set up at the front of the car with the additional cooler up there.
11-17-2008, 10:05 PM
#58
Three Wheelin'
I haven't done any venting (yet).
On the one hand, I wanted to see the car with the curves intact, and I'm liking what I'm seeing.
If I decide to go forward with putting in scoops, it shouldn't be too difficult with the fenders on the car. I'm still not sure that I'll be able to plumb the tranny coolers in the way that I want, so I may just leave the stock set up at the front of the car with the additional cooler up there.
On the one hand, I wanted to see the car with the curves intact, and I'm liking what I'm seeing.
If I decide to go forward with putting in scoops, it shouldn't be too difficult with the fenders on the car. I'm still not sure that I'll be able to plumb the tranny coolers in the way that I want, so I may just leave the stock set up at the front of the car with the additional cooler up there.
