Re-Shaping front fenders?
#1
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I understand per Jim that the aluminum will work harden, and to do anything with the lip shape, someone will need to resoften it?
I just would love to have another inch or inch and a half of clearance for a 10" 65mm offset. It would look great, I think.
I just would love to have another inch or inch and a half of clearance for a 10" 65mm offset. It would look great, I think.
#2
Race Car
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I was at the track about a month ago and there was a 928 track car out for it's maiden track weekend.
The guy had tastefully done flared fenders. Did them himself. Looked good - really smooth. Not sure I have the jargon down but I think it was "hammered". I think he said that he did it while still on the car, but don't specifically recall. He was NOT a professional metal worker. He learned enough to do nice roll cage welds among other things the past couple of years.
Not sure this helps, but I've seen what I would consider very good home-made fender flares.
What you are thinking of appears to be possible.
The guy had tastefully done flared fenders. Did them himself. Looked good - really smooth. Not sure I have the jargon down but I think it was "hammered". I think he said that he did it while still on the car, but don't specifically recall. He was NOT a professional metal worker. He learned enough to do nice roll cage welds among other things the past couple of years.
Not sure this helps, but I've seen what I would consider very good home-made fender flares.
What you are thinking of appears to be possible.
#3
Man of many SIGs
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You need to anneal the aluminum. You need to use a torch to heat them up and this will soften them for reworking.
When you strike your torch, leave the oxygen off. Use the pure acetalene flame to blacken the fender with soot. Adjust your mixture to a clean blue flame by adding oxygen. Heat the fender carefully until the soot burns off. It burns off at the same approximate temp that you need to heat the alum to anneal. Once you do this the alum. will be softened so you can work it. Be carefull not to put too much heat into the fender or it will become unworkable. You can also buy metalworking crayons that melt at different temps. If you go this route you will want one for about 800 - 850 degrees.
When you strike your torch, leave the oxygen off. Use the pure acetalene flame to blacken the fender with soot. Adjust your mixture to a clean blue flame by adding oxygen. Heat the fender carefully until the soot burns off. It burns off at the same approximate temp that you need to heat the alum to anneal. Once you do this the alum. will be softened so you can work it. Be carefull not to put too much heat into the fender or it will become unworkable. You can also buy metalworking crayons that melt at different temps. If you go this route you will want one for about 800 - 850 degrees.
#4
Nordschleife Master
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I will confirm what Fabio says as true, but you will need to take the paint off first, and ONLY heat it till the soot disappears, any more and you will possibly damage the fender.
#5
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#6
Man of many SIGs
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For sure. The paint wont take those temps. It will burn off if you heat from the backside. Burned paint is easier to sand off anyway.
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#7
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Of all the front fenders Ive seen, the only ones that are reasonably acceptable to me, are Joes and Mark A's
I was looking into this a while ago, and forgot how Mark A. did his. There was some discussion on cutting the fender near the downward lengthwise fold, and putting in a strip of aluminum to widen the fender, while pulling out the area attaching near the bottom door and front parking light areas.
If i cant win the next two races at laguna, I will have to win at Thunderhill, which will require more HP or a wider front track so i can run the 305s up front.
If someone knows for sure, it would be great to find out the secret formula for fenders that look almost identical to stock, but about 1" wider!!
It makes perfect sense with our fenders, because they have such natural curves to them, to just widen them before the curves which are the hardest for someone to fabricate and look decent
mk
Mk
I was looking into this a while ago, and forgot how Mark A. did his. There was some discussion on cutting the fender near the downward lengthwise fold, and putting in a strip of aluminum to widen the fender, while pulling out the area attaching near the bottom door and front parking light areas.
If i cant win the next two races at laguna, I will have to win at Thunderhill, which will require more HP or a wider front track so i can run the 305s up front.
If someone knows for sure, it would be great to find out the secret formula for fenders that look almost identical to stock, but about 1" wider!!
It makes perfect sense with our fenders, because they have such natural curves to them, to just widen them before the curves which are the hardest for someone to fabricate and look decent
mk
Mk
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#8
Nordschleife Master
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Also figured I would mention to you Brendan, I picked up a set of 18x11" rims, 4 of them to be exact.
designed specifically for the 928, and yes the 18x11" fits on the front under STOCK fenders! reduced steering though. I have to get a 1 1/2" spacer for the rears to fit though.
Oh and the other thing, each rim is just over 14lbs! Not going to be running those on the street though!
Or I can get 2 reshelled for the rear for $100/rim so no spacers are required.
could run 315s on all 4 with them!
designed specifically for the 928, and yes the 18x11" fits on the front under STOCK fenders! reduced steering though. I have to get a 1 1/2" spacer for the rears to fit though.
Oh and the other thing, each rim is just over 14lbs! Not going to be running those on the street though!
Or I can get 2 reshelled for the rear for $100/rim so no spacers are required.
could run 315s on all 4 with them!
#12
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Also figured I would mention to you Brendan, I picked up a set of 18x11" rims, 4 of them to be exact.
designed specifically for the 928, and yes the 18x11" fits on the front under STOCK fenders! reduced steering though. I have to get a 1 1/2" spacer for the rears to fit though.
Oh and the other thing, each rim is just over 14lbs! Not going to be running those on the street though!
Or I can get 2 reshelled for the rear for $100/rim so no spacers are required.
could run 315s on all 4 with them!
designed specifically for the 928, and yes the 18x11" fits on the front under STOCK fenders! reduced steering though. I have to get a 1 1/2" spacer for the rears to fit though.
Oh and the other thing, each rim is just over 14lbs! Not going to be running those on the street though!
Or I can get 2 reshelled for the rear for $100/rim so no spacers are required.
could run 315s on all 4 with them!
#13
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The paint will be stripped off. All this careful heating for me is a recipe for disaster.