bd0nalds0n

I'm trying to remove the left tie rod where it goes into the rack. It's a 32mm fitting and the rack is 22mm to counter hold. I can't seem to get it loose. I want to make sure that I should be trying to spin the tie rod connector anti clockwise to get it out. Can someone please confirm that the left side going to the rack is not counter threaded? I'm going to try to apply more leverage, but I want to be sure I'm applying force in the correct direction. Thanks.

Garth S

All the racks I've opened are right hand thread on both ends ... so, "leftie loosie" works; however, I agree that some tie rod inners were tightened by a gorilla .... .
I usually position the wrenches such that both hands can wrap around them to apply a squeezing force ..... far more effective than trying to counterhold with one hand and pull with the other: caution - do not let finger tips get caught in the 'scissor' zone between the wrench handles, for when the threads let go, there is no time to pull the pinkies away ..

M. Requin

I'm working on my rack rebuild this afternoon, and just took a little break, relaxing on the list as usual and whoa! - a question I can answer!. Nope, it's not a LH thread, but I had to use a heat gun on mine to get it to come loose. Those things were tight! Took a fair amount of heat.

borland

They have the same part number, so you should expect the threads to be the same on each side.

WSM specified torque is 150 Nm or 108 ft-lb.

WSM says "tighten while holding rack" using torque wrench, but doesn't say 'counter holding with on the 22mm output shaft', so I'd guess with the rack in place you only need one wrench.

bd0nalds0n

So I can just put the 32mm on and yank? I was worried about messing up the rack if I didn't counter hold the output shaft...

Garth S

There are wrench flats machined on the rack rod ends for austensibly good reason: if the rod is not counterheld, all the torque applied to the inner tie rod end is transfered to the pinion .... spool valve ... ignition key lock on steering shaft, etc. .... so I err on the side of avoiding stress on these components.

Counterhold it ...

borland

Look at the Pirtle web site.... he has a section on the steering rack and removing the tie rod with a pipe wrench. No counter hold on the output shaft mentioned.

http://members.rennlist.com/pirtle/svc.html

I just don't think its necessary.

M. Requin

What Garth said. Counterhold it, for just the reasons he gave, I think it's safer. But you might also find your counterhold wrench slips - those flats on the rack are not very wide - so you may need heat, as I did. If you have to use a LOT of heat, you might take a look at the o-ring in the stop just inboard of the tie rod just to make sure it's ok.

M. Requin

borland- made my post before I saw yours, so I took a look at Pirtle's info, and he does indeed use that pipe wrench (a PO did the same on mine at some point) so I guess it works. Thanks for pointing it out.

bd0nalds0n

Without counterholding, I didn't need to apply as much force as I thought I was applying when I was counterholding, so it seems to have worked out okay. Thanks for everyone's input.

Bill Ball

The flats work well for counterholding. I've always done it. Page 48-3 in the WSM says to "hold the rack" while torqing the tierod. That probably means to counterhold the rack shaft. The rack is mounted on the car, so what else could "hold the rack" mean? Putting your hand on the rack?? Don't think so.

UKKid35

Wish I'd seen this a month ago...

On the plus side now I have new tie rods the pull to the left I had has now gone. This seemed to be caused by a loose right hand inner balljoint. I didn't realise how bad it was until I clipped a width restriction with my door mirror (and I never get them wrong).

mark kibort

give it a hug too. Kiss it before you leave.

Hey, i have to do my driverside tie rod. I was going to attack it with my limited tools, but after putting a little force on the steering rack side, i decieded to wait until i have two wrenches. the 32mm and the 22 mm. both flat wrenches i imagine.

im wondering about the spindle side. can you press this out with a bearing puller (in reverse to kind of, push the shaft down out of the spindle housing)? as was advised , the pickle fork is not recommended.. otherwise, its off to the shop for a quick swap. (new for the loose old one at the ball joint on the rack side.

mk

Bill Ball

If you are going to replace the balljoint with the tirerod, as I usually do, then a pickle fork is OK. However, I've encountered balljoints, like the one yesterday on Brian's car, that no pickle would break free. The proper balljoint separator tool is cheap and effective. In theory a hammer on the nut will work, but there is almost no room to swing one. Same with a gear puller - not enough room.

Here's a real nice once from Sears. Mine is crude compared to it.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...0070921x00003a

Garth S

I now use a press like Bill has shown .... but have removed a number of ball joints and outer tie rod ends by smacking the spindle at right angles to the axis of the ball stud: line it up carefully, and one good smack normally does it ( steel, being elastic, momentarily 'ovalizes' the tapered hole to release the stud). Keep the nut on for a turn or so, for the components will otherwise fly apart.
For really tough tapered studs, place a second BFH behind and in contact with the spindle before the killing strike ....