RyanPerrella

if the problem is the endcaps separating from the core, then you can still fix it. Take it to a radiator shop or a competent machine shop or welder and have them pull the caps off and prep them and weld them up instead. Dont just throw the Devek radiator away, you have core components there that are worth good money. I would think the parts of the radiator are fine, they were just very poorly put together it appears.

Actually, why am i telling you this......YOUR RADIATOR IS WORTH NOTHING. SEND IT TO ME! I will take it and even pay you to ship it to me.

SeanR

Mine was also welded at the end caps. I figure some day I'll have it rebuilt so I've got a spare around.

GUMBALL

Don't know if I would take it to "any" radiator shop. Welding thin aluminum is not that easy, and an inexperienced welder might just make a bigger hole. Is there a good fabrication shop in your area? Or anyone that is good with a TIG?

Marine Blue

Gumball has a point, maybe there's a racing shop nearby that can suggest a good fabricator.

Anyone know if the Ron Racing Radiators are the same as the Devek offerings? Mine has a Ron Racing sticker on it and is an all aluminum with welded end tanks.

SeanR

I believe they are one and the same.

Imo000

I don't think it will hold that much pressure. JB is good for many things but not for pressure. BUt if it's just a little pin hole then it might just work.

I would take the rad in to a welding shop and have them tack the hope with the proper rod.

Art20c

I got to see about that, but I guess after holidays?
My radiator had sign on front " Ron Davis". Even though I bought it from Devek I think it was made by Ron Davis. Is it a good thing or bad?

Jim bailey - 928 International

Ron Davis was the supplier for the DEVEK radiator ...

Art20c

As a temporary solution, until I find good welder, I used JB weld to fill that hole. Thus far it holds, but strange thing is, even though I got coolant level OK, there is no pressure build up in hoses and radiator. I drove the car for about 5 miles, no leaks and no pressure. Upper radiator hose is soft when squeezed.

Bill Ball

T-stat needs to close off the bypass passage before coolant flows to the radiator. 5 miles is probably not be long enough.

Art20c

I got it running at idle for at least 2 hours, same thing, no pressure

mark kibort

thats not good. you do need to have the system be able to hold pressure, or that boiling point doesnt go up as it needs to.

leaky cap, or is it the pin hole in the radiator still? JB weld is a good temp solution for many leaks in the radiator, but on the sides as a "cover" for a hole, i dont think it could work. in the radiator middle, the JB weld can be "shoved" in between the radiator jacket paths, and the entire area sealed off.

after 10 min of driving, pull over an see where the leak is. it should be coming out like a steam engine if you idle long enough. you said, " 2hours of idling" ? really? thats one cool running motor! can you turn off the fans, heater, and drive it around to get the pressure up?

mk

Art20c

There is no leaks from the cap, no leaks from radiator. I dont see anything wrong with cooling system, except no pressure issue

RngTrtl

I had to do the JB fix to my stock radiator a year or so ago and it is still holding fine; however, I developed the same lack of pressure issue that you speak of about 6 months ago. The motor never runs above normal operating range (right in the middle of the gauge) and I have good coolent flow so I guess that all is well. Worth noting though, I do have an electric fan that blows hurricane force winds through the radiator when I have it turned on (I have the fan on a manual switch).

Bill Ball

So, you're saying you drive the car far enough for the coolant to get hot enough to kick on the fans (I'm assuming you have electric fans) and when you open the overflow bottle cap and there is no pressure release?