Devek radiator
01-07-2008, 08:55 AM
#46
Shark Slayer
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and me'... Coolest running ever!
. . . so far!Doc
05-11-2010, 10:15 PM
#48
Road Warrior
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update: My Devek/Ron Davis Racing Radiator was leaking from all 4 corners.
here is what I learned after sending it back to Davis:
you CAN NOT weld it - the difference in metal thickness with the tubes and tank is too great. the tubes will melt before getting the ends hot enough.
it is a vacume sealed unit when built. the epoxy goes in the inside to help seal. apparently, its not a bulletproof design.
RD wants $1200.00 for a new unit. but why I'd want another unit from a firm that can't make one last 10k miles is beyond me. I'm crazy for sure, but not estupit.
I found a rad shop in Burbank that epoxied the OUTSIDE of all four corners. he does that for a lot of off road stuff that gets abused. he pressure tests and reworks it till it's leak free.
cost: $150.00 and it's solid as a tank. doesn't look bad either.
I don't think I'd try this on a 20 year old radiator, because the core is prolly full of so much debris it won't flow worth a hoot. but for anyone w/a newer unit that's leaking at the joints like the OP, it's fine, imho.
hope this helps.
here is what I learned after sending it back to Davis:
you CAN NOT weld it - the difference in metal thickness with the tubes and tank is too great. the tubes will melt before getting the ends hot enough.
it is a vacume sealed unit when built. the epoxy goes in the inside to help seal. apparently, its not a bulletproof design.
RD wants $1200.00 for a new unit. but why I'd want another unit from a firm that can't make one last 10k miles is beyond me. I'm crazy for sure, but not estupit.
I found a rad shop in Burbank that epoxied the OUTSIDE of all four corners. he does that for a lot of off road stuff that gets abused. he pressure tests and reworks it till it's leak free.
cost: $150.00 and it's solid as a tank. doesn't look bad either.
I don't think I'd try this on a 20 year old radiator, because the core is prolly full of so much debris it won't flow worth a hoot. but for anyone w/a newer unit that's leaking at the joints like the OP, it's fine, imho.
hope this helps.
05-11-2010, 10:37 PM
#49
I've got a Devek one that I keep meaning to cut open and see if I can rebuild it. It also was leaking and I just replaced it with a used factory one with new end caps. I'm happy enough in the Texas heat the current one.
05-12-2010, 01:44 PM
#50
Road Warrior
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I kinda wonder if I really had to go w/a bigger unit on my car. I've seen a few blown and stroked cars w/stock radiators and haven't heard much about overheating
05-12-2010, 01:54 PM
#51
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05-12-2010, 02:08 PM
#52
Road Warrior
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.014" and .20" AL don't play nice with a TIG welder, apparently.
that's why RD used some kind of vacume forming process, and tried to use an epoxy internally.
so much for that design. the OEM unit looks pretty nice all of a sudden, lol
on the other hand, we can have a nice shiney AL rad - as long as we buy some JB Weld
05-12-2010, 03:12 PM
#53
Fleet of Foot
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Makes me wonder how Greg Brown's upcoming design will be held together? He says it will address the "issues" of the C & R, hopefully this is one of them.
05-12-2010, 03:28 PM
#54
Road Warrior
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Fitament is a big deal w/him, so I suspect it'll fit like a glove. In that respect the RD unit was pretty good.
if it doesn't last, I'm sure the vendor will end up with an AL suppository, hahaha
if it doesn't last, I'm sure the vendor will end up with an AL suppository, hahaha
05-12-2010, 03:42 PM
#55
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update: My Devek/Ron Davis Racing Radiator was leaking from all 4 corners.
here is what I learned after sending it back to Davis:
you CAN NOT weld it - the difference in metal thickness with the tubes and tank is too great. the tubes will melt before getting the ends hot enough.
it is a vacume sealed unit when built. the epoxy goes in the inside to help seal. apparently, its not a bulletproof design.
RD wants $1200.00 for a new unit. but why I'd want another unit from a firm that can't make one last 10k miles is beyond me. I'm crazy for sure, but not estupit.
I found a rad shop in Burbank that epoxied the OUTSIDE of all four corners. he does that for a lot of off road stuff that gets abused. he pressure tests and reworks it till it's leak free.
cost: $150.00 and it's solid as a tank. doesn't look bad either.
I don't think I'd try this on a 20 year old radiator, because the core is prolly full of so much debris it won't flow worth a hoot. but for anyone w/a newer unit that's leaking at the joints like the OP, it's fine, imho.
hope this helps.
here is what I learned after sending it back to Davis:
you CAN NOT weld it - the difference in metal thickness with the tubes and tank is too great. the tubes will melt before getting the ends hot enough.
it is a vacume sealed unit when built. the epoxy goes in the inside to help seal. apparently, its not a bulletproof design.
RD wants $1200.00 for a new unit. but why I'd want another unit from a firm that can't make one last 10k miles is beyond me. I'm crazy for sure, but not estupit.
I found a rad shop in Burbank that epoxied the OUTSIDE of all four corners. he does that for a lot of off road stuff that gets abused. he pressure tests and reworks it till it's leak free.
cost: $150.00 and it's solid as a tank. doesn't look bad either.
I don't think I'd try this on a 20 year old radiator, because the core is prolly full of so much debris it won't flow worth a hoot. but for anyone w/a newer unit that's leaking at the joints like the OP, it's fine, imho.
hope this helps.
It's not cheap, but it is compared to the cost of a radiator, and it does what it says.
05-12-2010, 04:01 PM
#56
Fleet of Foot
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05-12-2010, 04:38 PM
#57
Road Warrior
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You might want to look into the Muggyweld stuff that I used for my rear A/C evaporator. They make a couple of pretty good aluminum solders. The one I used melts at only 350F and is rated 20000 PSI. They also have another alloy that melts at 600F and is rated higher strength.
It's not cheap, but it is compared to the cost of a radiator, and it does what it says.
It's not cheap, but it is compared to the cost of a radiator, and it does what it says.
05-12-2010, 08:09 PM
#58
Captain Obvious
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update: My Devek/Ron Davis Racing Radiator was leaking from all 4 corners.
here is what I learned after sending it back to Davis:
you CAN NOT weld it - the difference in metal thickness with the tubes and tank is too great. the tubes will melt before getting the ends hot enough.
it is a vacume sealed unit when built. the epoxy goes in the inside to help seal. apparently, its not a bulletproof design.
RD wants $1200.00 for a new unit. but why I'd want another unit from a firm that can't make one last 10k miles is beyond me. I'm crazy for sure, but not estupit.
I found a rad shop in Burbank that epoxied the OUTSIDE of all four corners. he does that for a lot of off road stuff that gets abused. he pressure tests and reworks it till it's leak free.
cost: $150.00 and it's solid as a tank. doesn't look bad either.
I don't think I'd try this on a 20 year old radiator, because the core is prolly full of so much debris it won't flow worth a hoot. but for anyone w/a newer unit that's leaking at the joints like the OP, it's fine, imho.
hope this helps.
here is what I learned after sending it back to Davis:
you CAN NOT weld it - the difference in metal thickness with the tubes and tank is too great. the tubes will melt before getting the ends hot enough.
it is a vacume sealed unit when built. the epoxy goes in the inside to help seal. apparently, its not a bulletproof design.
RD wants $1200.00 for a new unit. but why I'd want another unit from a firm that can't make one last 10k miles is beyond me. I'm crazy for sure, but not estupit.
I found a rad shop in Burbank that epoxied the OUTSIDE of all four corners. he does that for a lot of off road stuff that gets abused. he pressure tests and reworks it till it's leak free.
cost: $150.00 and it's solid as a tank. doesn't look bad either.
I don't think I'd try this on a 20 year old radiator, because the core is prolly full of so much debris it won't flow worth a hoot. but for anyone w/a newer unit that's leaking at the joints like the OP, it's fine, imho.
hope this helps.
05-12-2010, 10:19 PM
#59
Road Warrior
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05-13-2010, 12:53 AM
#60
Captain Obvious
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