Who uses the new 15W-50 M1?
#1
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It shouldn't be any surprise by now, that Mobil "re introduced" their top shelf multi grade oil 15W 50.
I wasn't real sure why they did this so I looked it up and found...
Why are you reintroducing Mobil 1 15W-50? Have there been any changes to the formulation, or is it identical to the previous product?
Mobil 1 15W-50 is being reintroduced based on popular demand. Mobil 1 15W-50 provides higher viscosity, designed to provide extra protection for performance vehicles and vehicles that operate in severe service, such as towing, hauling and racing. Additionally, Mobil 1 15W-50 contains higher levels of anti-wear (ZDDP or Zinc DialkylDithioPhosphate) that may be required for certain racing applications and camshaft designs. This is a new Mobil 1 15W-50 formulation and is not the same as the product that was marketed a few years ago.
What I am surprised about, is that they say "... not the same as the product that was marketed a few years ago. " Whoa, I have been buying this stuff up until a month ago. Do they just make that much that it takes 3 years to deplete their inventory?
Also, (and NOT complaining here) though they have re-introduced it, the cost is less!!! It's supposedly better and now meets four classifications rather than three.
So does anyone have any comments about the change and the lower price for better schtuff? You can buy this oil at Costco now for around $29.00 a case....sure beats the $42.00+ a case I have seen in the past for the old gold top.
![](http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/oil_1.jpg)
I wasn't real sure why they did this so I looked it up and found...
Why are you reintroducing Mobil 1 15W-50? Have there been any changes to the formulation, or is it identical to the previous product?
Mobil 1 15W-50 is being reintroduced based on popular demand. Mobil 1 15W-50 provides higher viscosity, designed to provide extra protection for performance vehicles and vehicles that operate in severe service, such as towing, hauling and racing. Additionally, Mobil 1 15W-50 contains higher levels of anti-wear (ZDDP or Zinc DialkylDithioPhosphate) that may be required for certain racing applications and camshaft designs. This is a new Mobil 1 15W-50 formulation and is not the same as the product that was marketed a few years ago.
What I am surprised about, is that they say "... not the same as the product that was marketed a few years ago. " Whoa, I have been buying this stuff up until a month ago. Do they just make that much that it takes 3 years to deplete their inventory?
Also, (and NOT complaining here) though they have re-introduced it, the cost is less!!! It's supposedly better and now meets four classifications rather than three.
So does anyone have any comments about the change and the lower price for better schtuff? You can buy this oil at Costco now for around $29.00 a case....sure beats the $42.00+ a case I have seen in the past for the old gold top.
![](http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/oil_1.jpg)
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#2
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Is the new schtuff still considered 'Extended Performance'? Seems I read somewhere that the EP is better? I just bought 3 cases of the EP from AutoBarn.com & it would be nice to be able to buy locally. Time to cruise the Hillary threads.
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The formulation changed a few years ago to SM from just SL, with reduced zinc and other antiwear minerals. Even though I believe Doug has said that with modern formulations this change made no difference, Doug often cited the ACEA certfication as a prefered standard. It's good to see now that they have that certification. Sorry if I am misquoting or misconstruing what Doug said. M1 15/50 was very hard to find around here for about 6 months.
Oh, found this from Doug:
"Always ensure that the ACEA A3/B3 specification is stated on any oil going into a 928 engine!"
https://rennlist.com/forums/showpost...3&postcount=63
Oh, found this from Doug:
"Always ensure that the ACEA A3/B3 specification is stated on any oil going into a 928 engine!"
https://rennlist.com/forums/showpost...3&postcount=63
Last edited by Bill Ball; 11-02-2007 at 11:36 PM.
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The "old" stuff with more zinc had the red cap, switched to the gold cap....so now I'm looking for a gray cap?
Cool - I'll keep that in mind next spring when I buy my oil for the year. Then again with oil prices doing what they are, maybe I should buy a few cases now.
FWIW - On the Factory Five forum there are lot of threads about engine building, installing new cams, lifters etc... There was a thread recently discussing this same topic.
There is a big concern about "new" engine parts (mostly cams / lifters) that need zinc for proper break in. A few of the sponsors who are engine builders listed a few oil additives (STP mentioned the most) that add the zinc back into whatever oil you use. There was a general agreement that on an "old" engine not being broke in, the zinc level was not as important.
Cool - I'll keep that in mind next spring when I buy my oil for the year. Then again with oil prices doing what they are, maybe I should buy a few cases now.
FWIW - On the Factory Five forum there are lot of threads about engine building, installing new cams, lifters etc... There was a thread recently discussing this same topic.
There is a big concern about "new" engine parts (mostly cams / lifters) that need zinc for proper break in. A few of the sponsors who are engine builders listed a few oil additives (STP mentioned the most) that add the zinc back into whatever oil you use. There was a general agreement that on an "old" engine not being broke in, the zinc level was not as important.
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I've been using it for the last 8 years, never noticed that there was a temporary lack of supply. Betwen Schucks, Costco, and Wal Mart, I've never had a problem finding it.
Learned most of my motorbuilding info from an old time wrench back when I was in High School. He swore by STP in the build.
Learned most of my motorbuilding info from an old time wrench back when I was in High School. He swore by STP in the build.
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#8
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It's what I've used for the past 4 years or so.
It used to be called SuperSyn.
It disappeared for about 9 months and I had to use Valvoline 20-W-50 synthetic.
I'm back on the M1 after I found it at Costco about 4 months ago.
It used to be called SuperSyn.
It disappeared for about 9 months and I had to use Valvoline 20-W-50 synthetic.
I'm back on the M1 after I found it at Costco about 4 months ago.
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We found it in SoCal (and other...) Wal-Marts for less than $20 for the five-quart jug. This is the grey cap. the beige cap stuff was an interim product that was on local shelves for about a year. It replaced the red cap that I had used for a long time. The latest stuff has been around now here for close to a year.
The way I drive the car, it would be happy with anything north of salad dressing. The M1 has been the choice since I've owned it though. Until they come out with a good creamy italian flavor, it will stay in the car.
The way I drive the car, it would be happy with anything north of salad dressing. The M1 has been the choice since I've owned it though. Until they come out with a good creamy italian flavor, it will stay in the car.
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Doug often cited the ACEA certfication as a prefered standard. It's good to see now that they have that certification. Sorry if I am misquoting or misconstruing what Doug said. M1 15/50 was very hard to find around here for about 6 months.
Oh, found this from Doug:
"Always ensure that the ACEA A3/B3 specification is stated on any oil going into a 928 engine!"
Oh, found this from Doug:
"Always ensure that the ACEA A3/B3 specification is stated on any oil going into a 928 engine!"
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Argh! Did I get them backwards, Keith? I don't recall the ACEA rating on the old stuff.
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Yea, I am a bit cornfused now myself....
The label on the left is the old/gold cap, the right is the new/silver cap.
![](http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/oil_111.jpg)
So if I am reading this right, I am using the wrong oil?
The label on the left is the old/gold cap, the right is the new/silver cap.
![](http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/oil_111.jpg)
So if I am reading this right, I am using the wrong oil?
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The one of the left does not list "SL", only "SM".
See here:
http://calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/API.html
Found this on an oil FAQ, after reading this everything is as clear as mud. Maybe I'll stick with Royal Purple:
Another interesting read (scroll down past the menu):
http://www.naaaccc.ca/oil_additives_.htm
See here:
http://calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/API.html
Originally Posted by SM
For all automotive engines presently in use. Introduced November 30, 2004. SM oils are designed to provide improved oxidation resistence, improved deposit protection, better wear protection, and better low-temperature performance over the life of the oil. Some SM oils may also meet the latest ILSAC specification and/or qualify as Energy Conserving
Originally Posted by SL
For 2004 and older automotive engines
API Certification, Phosphorus & ZDDP
Never use a non-API certified synthetic oil (there are many of these on the market). The problem with the non-API certified synthetics is that they contain too much phosphorus (in the form of the additive ZDDP (Zinc Dialkyl Dithiophosphates)). The API has limited the amount of phosphorus because phosphorus shortens the life of the catalytic converter. These oils are fine for snowmobiles, motorcycles, and older cars that don't have a catalytic converter, and the extra ZDDP does provide additional wear protection. Unfortunately, the marketers of some the non-certified oils do not explicitly and honestly state the reason for the lack of API certification. You can check the status of API certification on the API web site. Be certain to go not just by the manufacturer name but by the actual product as well. This is because a manufacturer will sometimes have both certified and non-certified products. Suffice it to say that Mobil 1, Royal Purple, Castrol, & Havoline all make synthetic oils that are API certified and that can be purchased at auto parts stores and other retail outlets. Amsoil has one product line, XL-7500 that is API certified, but it's other lines contain too much ZDDP to be certified and should not be used in vehicles with catalytic converters.
Never use a non-API certified synthetic oil (there are many of these on the market). The problem with the non-API certified synthetics is that they contain too much phosphorus (in the form of the additive ZDDP (Zinc Dialkyl Dithiophosphates)). The API has limited the amount of phosphorus because phosphorus shortens the life of the catalytic converter. These oils are fine for snowmobiles, motorcycles, and older cars that don't have a catalytic converter, and the extra ZDDP does provide additional wear protection. Unfortunately, the marketers of some the non-certified oils do not explicitly and honestly state the reason for the lack of API certification. You can check the status of API certification on the API web site. Be certain to go not just by the manufacturer name but by the actual product as well. This is because a manufacturer will sometimes have both certified and non-certified products. Suffice it to say that Mobil 1, Royal Purple, Castrol, & Havoline all make synthetic oils that are API certified and that can be purchased at auto parts stores and other retail outlets. Amsoil has one product line, XL-7500 that is API certified, but it's other lines contain too much ZDDP to be certified and should not be used in vehicles with catalytic converters.
http://www.naaaccc.ca/oil_additives_.htm
Last edited by hacker-pschorr; 11-03-2007 at 02:23 AM.
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Do 928's really require almost 9 quarts of oil? I'm asking because I've never heard of that before I've heard of 5 quarts at most but according to the 928 international repair tips and links they recommend purchasing 9 quarts.
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It's a BIG oil pan
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