worf928

I have to say that that is the most succinct and accurate description of the 928's clutch that I've ever read.

mark kibort

I almost did something like this with scots. fortunately, we were never a few degrees from reaching a 13mm bolt that holds the pressure plate to the flywheel. in the end, i forgot to push the pilot shaft into the pilot bearing. (it was pressure fitted around the bearing and jammed the entire set up) after making a similar mistake , and doing the clutch about 3 times, we got it done. fortunately, ive done this a bunch of times and the entire ordeal only set us back an hour or two. i think we got the engine out in 3 and back-in in about 6. He is a happy camper now with is euro 5 liter waiting to go to the dyno!

moral of the story, leave the ball and socket attached. push pilot shaft into pilot bearing before tighting 13mm bolts.

mk

klunssila

Hi!

Can anyone tell me the exact number for pilot bearing from SKF or some other well-known brand? Or the measures of bearing?

Original porsche number is 928 102 111 02, but in the local SKF-dealer they cannot translate porsche numbers.

Thank you!

Regards, Teemu

JKelly

Glad you finally got the clutch out Mike . How's it coming along?

My first clutch experience went like this:
Decided to do it in the driveway (vs. garage) since it was a nice warm and sunny November day when I started.
Spent the next week figuring out what the h3ll I was doing.
Finished it up with my back on plastic bags in the freezing rain and numb fingers.

After taking it out several times since then, it has become very simple to do. An Ott X-pipe, makes it a breeze since the exhaust doesn't have to come down.
btw, I grease the pin holes on the flywheel side before putting the clutch back in .

Mike Frye

John,

Thanks for checking in. I'm doing OK on it I guess. I'm waiting for the parts to come in for the rest. I've already pulled and replaced the pilot bearing, put on the new ball cup bushing, and thanks to your write-up, taken the throw-out bearing out in anticipation of the new parts.

I hear you on the weather thing. I went the other route, I put my car in the garage to work on it two weeks ago, and since then my wife's convertible has been outside in near monsoon conditions. Soon I'll be sleeping under the car .

I'm definitely going to take all I've learned here and put it into a write-up for newbies. Some of the things that scared the he!! out of me were non-issues, but the fear of the unknown was holding me back. Little steps like the shims are not clear in the manual and IMHO are glossed over by people who did write-ups after doing it a few times because it's a quick easy step. Also the thing with the pins apparently doesn't happen to most people, so it will be useful for others if they have a problem, and they can ignore it if it doesn't.

Bill Ball was kind enough to add his own issues to this thread so that future clutch 'virgins' will have the benefit of both sets of complications.

Thanks again for your insight and patience. See you at SITM?

Bill Ball

Clutch virgin no more. Matt and I buttoned up the clutch fairly quickly today. We took the opportunity to replace the rear main seal. That added a little time as we had to go to the hardware store for some stock to fabricate a tool to draw the seal in using the flywheel bolts. I had made a tool once before but couldn't find it. Also, it took us some time to figure out the trick to getting the clip back in that holds the release bearing assembly. You have to press a bit hard down on the pressure plate to compress a spring washer and expose the slot into which the clip goes. Everything after that was anti-climactic. Matt is finishing up few other tasks before he can fire the car up and determine if we eliminated a rattle that seemed to be coming from the clutch. I feel better now and will feel great if the rattle is gone. If not, Matt and I agreed the flywheel needed resurfacing anyway.

Mike Frye

So Bill,

I guess you used the old pressure plate? When I got the new one, it had those shims in it, so I didn't have any trouble getting that ring back on. Removing the ring from the old one required some effort since I hadn't put the shims in during removal. Per JKelly's instructions, I just used a clamp to compress the three spring locations and put the shims in on the bench. This gave enough room to just pull the ring without wrestling with it.

Good news that all is back together. Hoping to hear that it got rid of the rattle.

For me it was probably a combination of a burned out friction disk and NO release arm bushing left at all.

No more sounds, shift is smooth as silk.

Congrats and let us know if it cured the problem.

Bill Ball

No, we used a new pressure plate with the shims. Even so, getting the release bearing assembly locked into the arm and pressure plate with the wire snap ring took some additional pressure to compress that toothed-looking spring washer that is on the other side of the pressure plate fingers. We reassembled according to Matt's photos, since I was not there for the disassembly, but it looks right.

Mike Frye

Oh crap.

I hope I didn't screw mine up then. I didn't have any trouble getting the clip back in, I don't remember having to compress it to get the ring in that groove.

UKKid35

If the shims are large enough there is no problem getting the wire snap ring back in the bearing, it can be done just by pressing down with one hand. However I have no experience of the pre-S4 clutch so YMMV.

IrishLegend

Bump...I'll need this soon!

Lizard928

Teemu,

I believe that the clutch pilot bearing part number is 6202. But I could be mistaken.

atb

Colin,

When did you take off your wrist watch and start wearing a wrist calendar?