Adjusting Cam timining 86.5
#1
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Adjusting Cam timining 86.5
I just browsed through the other post and so not to get things all merged to gether ill start a new thread of what we are finding and discovering as we proceed with this.
The tool is well made and fits as advertised.
Darien and i came across a few "head scratchers" and thought we'd post what we have found here first before "adjusting" anything.
Granted, the cams are best set with a dial gauge but as Dariens car sits right now, this is where we are at.
If i read this corectly, the the passneger side is at "0" and the driver side is advanced 6 degrees....correct?
The crank is at 0' TDC when these were measured.
pics below..
Top passenger side.....bottom driver side
Ill ask more questions later...
The tool is well made and fits as advertised.
Darien and i came across a few "head scratchers" and thought we'd post what we have found here first before "adjusting" anything.
Granted, the cams are best set with a dial gauge but as Dariens car sits right now, this is where we are at.
If i read this corectly, the the passneger side is at "0" and the driver side is advanced 6 degrees....correct?
The crank is at 0' TDC when these were measured.
pics below..
Top passenger side.....bottom driver side
Ill ask more questions later...
#2
Yep, 6° advance. Almost a whole tooth (7.5°)!
The cam gear mark looks like it's a tooth off?
The cam gear mark looks like it's a tooth off?
#4
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Is the belt on the passenger side riding close to the edge of cam sprocket? When I look in the cam cover hole, mine looks the same.
On the drivers side it rides further in, more in the middle of sprocket. Is this normal?
Thanks
On the drivers side it rides further in, more in the middle of sprocket. Is this normal?
Thanks
#5
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Ken AWESOME Tool
My question would be, how would the current settings affect the performance of the engine
My symptoms have been:
1. Power stagnation at peak rpm on the dyno.
2. Engine rev's slower than normal from a dead stop.
Thanks for the loaner Andrew
My question would be, how would the current settings affect the performance of the engine
My symptoms have been:
1. Power stagnation at peak rpm on the dyno.
2. Engine rev's slower than normal from a dead stop.
Thanks for the loaner Andrew
Originally Posted by PorKen
Yep, 6° advance. Almost a whole tooth (7.5°)!
The cam gear mark looks like it's a tooth off?
The cam gear mark looks like it's a tooth off?
#7
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Well I'm going to venture a guess here... ahhh... ummm... the performance would not be what it should be. There, I said it!
Seriously though, I would expect a lumpy idle, but not sure if 6* is enough to get you to that point. But if one side is advanced 6*, I would think:
1. Power stagnation at peak rpm on the dyno. Because not as much AF mixture is getting into the combution chamber on one side = loss of horsepower
2. Engine rev's slower than normal from a dead stop. - Same issue, but this would be more becasue of the exhaust port side opening too early which I believe would cause loss of torque = slow revs
I don't claim to be an expert, but just thinking it through, this make sense (to me at least...)
Seriously though, I would expect a lumpy idle, but not sure if 6* is enough to get you to that point. But if one side is advanced 6*, I would think:
1. Power stagnation at peak rpm on the dyno. Because not as much AF mixture is getting into the combution chamber on one side = loss of horsepower
2. Engine rev's slower than normal from a dead stop. - Same issue, but this would be more becasue of the exhaust port side opening too early which I believe would cause loss of torque = slow revs
I don't claim to be an expert, but just thinking it through, this make sense (to me at least...)
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#9
6° is a lot of advance - that's 12° crank (ignition) advance.
I don't know if that would give the syptoms described, but the engine has more compression on one side than the other, so it won't be firing as smoothly as it could. I would expect the idle to be a little lumpy.
On a 16V, I'd expect there'd be pinging at high rpm's on that side, as the distributor is driven by the left cam.
I reckon a large percentage of 32V engines are mistimed.
I don't know if that would give the syptoms described, but the engine has more compression on one side than the other, so it won't be firing as smoothly as it could. I would expect the idle to be a little lumpy.
On a 16V, I'd expect there'd be pinging at high rpm's on that side, as the distributor is driven by the left cam.
I reckon a large percentage of 32V engines are mistimed.
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Originally Posted by PorKen
6° is a lot of advance - that's 12° crank (ignition) advance.
I don't know if that would give the syptoms described, but the engine has more compression on one side than the other, so it won't be firing as smoothly as it could. I would expect the idle to be a little lumpy.
On a 16V, I'd expect there'd be pinging at high rpm's on that side, as the distributor is driven by the left cam.
I reckon a large percentage of 32V engines are mistimed.
I don't know if that would give the syptoms described, but the engine has more compression on one side than the other, so it won't be firing as smoothly as it could. I would expect the idle to be a little lumpy.
On a 16V, I'd expect there'd be pinging at high rpm's on that side, as the distributor is driven by the left cam.
I reckon a large percentage of 32V engines are mistimed.
#11
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After doing some searchs about "cam Timing" i found this:
The reason for the timing difference on the separate banks is to compensate for the slight discrepancy in belt-tension between the two sides; I would stick to the manuals which were written by the engineers.
I found this very interesting and wonder how setting both sides up equal will change the performance
The reason for the timing difference on the separate banks is to compensate for the slight discrepancy in belt-tension between the two sides; I would stick to the manuals which were written by the engineers.
I found this very interesting and wonder how setting both sides up equal will change the performance
#12
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Any other gear heads out there have any input??
Originally Posted by Darien Nunn
Ken AWESOME Tool
My question would be, how would the current settings affect the performance of the engine
My symptoms have been:
1. Power stagnation at peak rpm on the dyno.
2. Engine rev's slower than normal from a dead stop.
Thanks for the loaner Andrew
My question would be, how would the current settings affect the performance of the engine
My symptoms have been:
1. Power stagnation at peak rpm on the dyno.
2. Engine rev's slower than normal from a dead stop.
Thanks for the loaner Andrew
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From: Vancouver, Canada
I bot one of Porken's timing tools a while back but haven't used it yet, because I thought to get correct readings, you first had to time the cams with the dial indicator method per the WSM. Am I mistaken here? Ken?
Glenn
Glenn
#14
Originally Posted by Loaded
After doing some searchs about "cam Timing" i found this:
The reason for the timing difference on the separate banks is to compensate for the slight discrepancy in belt-tension between the two sides; I would stick to the manuals which were written by the engineers.
I found this very interesting and wonder how setting both sides up equal will change the performance
The reason for the timing difference on the separate banks is to compensate for the slight discrepancy in belt-tension between the two sides; I would stick to the manuals which were written by the engineers.
I found this very interesting and wonder how setting both sides up equal will change the performance
Excellent find.
Don't forget that the engineers who designed, tested, and then mass-produced this (crazy! ahem, sorry) mega-belt system knew full well the floppiness of the dang thing and made allowances for it.
But 6 degrees! That does not seem so slight to me.
I would really like to see what the measured difference is on a 32V freshly dialed in as per the FSM...
#15
Fausto,
The right side is set retarded slightly per the WSM to compensate for an estimated expansion of the engine at temp, which will advance the valve timing.
I would prefer to adjust the timing of both banks to the left side WSM spec, when the engine is warm instead.
...
Glenn,
If you want to be absolutely positutely perfect, yes. My indicator appears to get it within a cam degree or so. Certainly more accurate than a cam gear change with a Sharpie®.
The right side is set retarded slightly per the WSM to compensate for an estimated expansion of the engine at temp, which will advance the valve timing.
I would prefer to adjust the timing of both banks to the left side WSM spec, when the engine is warm instead.
...
Glenn,
If you want to be absolutely positutely perfect, yes. My indicator appears to get it within a cam degree or so. Certainly more accurate than a cam gear change with a Sharpie®.