Ken,

1st pic is the crank timing mark
2nd is the Lt (driver side)
3rd Rt side (notice how it's not dead centered)

White-out marks the notch

 

Darien... I think Ken is asking for a picture of the keyed slot so he can see if the key is in the middle of the keyway or to one side.

If it is in or near the middle then (I'm guessing here) that would indicate that the gear is one tooth off on the belt, such that you will have to re-string the belt.

But if the gear has been rotated such that the key is to one side (not sure which) of the keyway, then you cam timing may be able to be corrected by rotating it back (without re-stringing the belt).

[edit]For clarification, the keyed slot is where the cam shaft comes through to meet the gear - Not the timing belt indicator marks.[/edit]

Did I get it Ken?

 

I couldn't get a great shot of the front. Not sure if this is what's need, I may need a picture illustration.

 

Andrew was close, but reversed.

I can't say for sure since I'm 'offsite', but the left cam gear looks to be one tooth retarded. The compression numbers (ignoring #8) back up the theory, with the lower numbers 5-8. If they were advanced, they ought to be higher that 1-4.

#1-150 #5-140
#2-155 #6-135
#3-147 #7-130
#4-155 #8-163

For the intial setup of a new cam gear, for example, the gear is installed with the hub bolt holes centered in the slots. This lines up the cam key with the small indent on the back of the gear. When the belt is put on, the mark should then roughly line up with the /\ on the cover.

As you can see below, the cam gear mark is retarded (CCW) from the /\, but the hub bolt holes are at end of their slots advanced (CW). This means the timing is actually (-7.5) + 6 = (-1.5), or 1.5° cam retard.

I'm guessing a previous mechanic tried to set the valve timing using the dial indicator, but ran out of adjustment, because the belt was on wrong, and just said f*ck it.



Not only is the compression unequal, but the ignition timing is retarded 3° on cyls 5-8, because the distributor rotor is attached the hub. This might explain the high speed dyno problems.

 

Hey guys,

You both are welcome to come over here and reference the tool on the Koenig motor if you want. I'm still playing with the dail indicator on the cams, and can show you exactly what happens when you loosen the bolts. It's much easier to look at when its on the stand. Give me a call.

 

Since Darien's engine is supercharged, you might want to dial in some retard instead of advance. This will lower the compression, and give some ignition retard, too! It also means that you shouldn't have to adjust the belt!

For a 2° retard, set 5.5° CCW on 5-8, and 2° CW on 1-4.

When the engine is warm, recheck 1-4 for 2° CW, as it may have advanced a little due to engine expansion. You may even want to set it 2.5° CW initially.

Looking again at the pic, it looks like 5-8 may actually be 5.5°, not 6°, anyway. It's not centered in the /\, right?

Clear as mud!?

 

Having said that, if you have the time, it would be best to reset the belt to the correct tooth and then adjust to 0° or 1-2° retard from there.

The spacer allows the cam gear to move independently of the cam, so you can turn the cam CW, or turn the crank, and hold the cam still for CCW.

In english: slide the tool onto the three allen bolt heads, then stick the needle through the holes for the amount of advance (......°), or retard (°......), then adjust until the needle is centered in the /\.

 

Thanks Ken

Will retarding the timing help the low end as well?

 

Synchronizing the cams should make it run better low and high. Generally, retarding the valve timing will take away some of the low end, but with a supercharger that shouldn't be a problem.

With retarded valve and ignition timing, you ought to be able to stand more boost, safely?

 

Sounds good Ken, although 10 psi is enough for me

Thanks again

 

Forgot to ask, even though the left side is off 5.5 deg off, the timing mark is dead on. When I correct the belt, the timing mark will be off center. Does the tool allow re-alignment of the marks?

I hope to get back under the hood in the AM

Thanks again

 

Are you are talking about the small indent on the back of the gear? If it is currently lined up with the /\, then my theory may be all wet. In fact, without benefit of having finished my coffee, and ignoring the compression numbers, it seems that you could just adjust the cam CCW, back to 0°.

Can you take a pic of the small mark, when the balancer is at T|0?

The small mark doesn't necessarily line up perfectly, the cam position is what matters. The big mark on the front was added to give a range, and to be able to see the mark through the breather hole.

 

Andele ... OLE!!

 

Awe man, I was affraid you'd say that The small indent is marked with white-out to show where it is. Even though it is lined up, it's still 6 deg off on the tool.

This is the left side with the balancer at TIO.




[QUOTE=PorKen]Are you are talking about the small indent on the back of the gear? If it is currently lined up with the /\, then my theory may be all wet. In fact, without benefit of having finished my coffee, and ignoring the compression numbers, it seems that you could just adjust the cam CCW, back to 0°.

Can you take a pic of the small mark, when the balancer is at T|0?

The small mark doesn't necessarily line up perfectly, the cam position is what matters. The big mark on the front was added to give a range, and to be able to see the mark through the breather hole.

 

ok... I am thoroughly confused now.