Ken,

Do you have any good contacts that used the tool on their 32V?

I'm debating if I should zero out the left side to match the right or put both advanced 2 deg??

 

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/242625-porkens-cam-timing-tool-rocks.html
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Conservatively, with an auto, measured cold, I'd set it to L:2°, R:1.5°. (3°/2.5° is what I'd put on my own car. ) Then check the right one again when the engine is at running temp, to see if it's equal to the left.

You can always use the indicator to go back to zero.
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I can't figure out why the engines are numbered differently for manual, and M249 (auto). In the old days (pre-emissions?), engines mated to automatics would have had come from the factory with a little valve advance, 2° is common.
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Side note: hold the [Alt] key and type [0][1][7][6] for '°', Alt-0177 for '±'

 

I'm not a gearhead but... I would be careful advancing the timing on a SC'd motor. Very soon you will want to up the boost and you don't want to be worrying about detonation.

Jim H

 

Ken that was 360° in the direction of ± a great post

 

If I can put my mind around the concept properly, I think you may be one cam tooth retarded, and the cam is advanced to the farthest it can go in the slot. So you are actually 1.5° retarded on the left.

Your compression readings indicate retard on the left, not advance.
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If (turbo)supercharged, I'd reckon I might go 0°/-0.5°, or even retard some. Especially with 10:1 compression, and no knock sensors.

 

I wasn't really thinking about the "accuracy" of your indicator. I just thought you needed to have the cams done per the manual to get a "baseline" from which to use the indicator in the first place. Am I mistaken?
Glenn

 

this sounds like ROG100 cam degree clinic day in the making

 

Glen,
Yes, you are correct.
Jim H

 

Glenn,

I was covering my *** with the WSM thing. I can't say for sure that all the cams were ground precisely in relation to the keyway*, but it seems the cams are within ±1°**. And if you factor in worn chains/tensioners/gears/cam lobes, and the fact that the measurement is taken from the intake cam, but the exhaust cam has the cam gear on it... Anyway, I'm much more confident in my indicator, now.

Without a direct gear drive, the valve timing is never going to be exact. It's not science, mon, it's valve timing.

*Yours may have been made during Oktoberfest!
**I guess more like ±0.5°.

 

What is the function of the spacer in the kit?

Ok..walk us through the steps for setting 2.0 on the driver side and 2.0 on the passenger side. (they are currently as shown in the pics in teh first post)
I honestly cant figure out how this works..sorry
Darien and i are stumped by a few things..partly because we dont want to start loosening bolts that effect timing when we arent 100% of how the tool is to be used or works.

The circled area below is what we are having trouble understanding.
fro example... the driver side..currently at 6.0, we will be taking out timing to a total of 2.0

 

Do you have a receipt for that tool?

 

Ken, as the purchaser of said tool... I have a question (any I don't believe you sent me a receipt ), could you please explain the point that Tony has highlighted? I'm stumped!

 

Whatever.

 

First off, you're gonna have to restring the belt. I'm fairly certain the belt is off by a tooth on the left gear. IE the gear needs to be rotated clockwise one tooth (the right gear and crank are not moved), then adjusted.

Can you post a pic of the bare left gear without the indicator, clamp ring, or rotor, so the slots are visible?

I'll go into detail on the adjustment, and use of the spacer tommorrow.

Darien's car does not have a supercharger, correct?

 

Darien's car is supercharged.