Bill Ball

You really are going to need a hand, especially, I suspect (we haven't done it yet), putting this thing back together. As borland mentioned, there will be a lot of brute force involved to get the TT shaft back into the TC coupling. The TT weighs 60 lbs. Wrestling it back into place could be rather difficult. Doing this alone, you really should consider the standard technique, dropping the rear end. Tony Harkin has it so well documented, you can't go wrong that way.

RngTrtl

I guess what I said is not entirely accurate. I have help available, it is just not knowlegable help Believe you me, I am probably gonna have my fiance' under there w/me handing me tools and such and she'll get under there and get her hands dirty and help and stuff. Plus I got a few friends that I can bribe with beer to help too. I am just gonna have to be the ring leader and coordinate it. I really do not want to drop the tranny! I am glad to hear about the info about the TC bearings, I will have to make an appointment at a local shop to get the bearings pressed in and out. Many thanks again to yall posting the info about all this, I will be keeping a close eye on this project. Take care and best of luck.

Bill Ball

OK, then I think with just a few tips and tools, you will be fine. Once we get this done in the next weeks or so, Matt, Dave, Steve and I will get our photos and comments together on a permanent web page and make sure all the steps are clear. This is far simpler than the timing belt, just more cumbersome due to the large parts.

None of us had ever done this before, so you will be no worse off than us, as long as one of your party is as creative at improvising tools for any situation as Dave Anderson is. We will cover all that in the notes.

RngTrtl

That is really good to hear. I have done a TB before when I replaced all the intake gaskets, vacuum lines, etc. So that is good to hear that it is not more complicated than that. I will be looking forward to seeing y'alls progress. Take care.

lorenolson888

Hi Guys,

Maybe I can come by for the rebuild.

The pics kind of look like the point that it broke at had some imperfections in the middle of the shaft? like some bubbles? I guess it is hard to say because the think lookes pretyy twisted up...

I wonder how the shaft was made. Formed from a peice of rolled bar? Cast?

LO

SharkSkin

Thanks for the compliments, Bill... Having done so much with so little in the past, I now feel qualified to accomplish anything -- with nothing!

Steve, again the hand is fine. Under that much tension, I hardly felt the foot against it. I wanted to provide a good surface for the foot to push against, and with Bill's foot pushing against the wrench closer to the ratchet head it was too squirrely and I had to devote extra effort to keeping the ratchet head positioned. I already was putting full effort not only into pulling on the wrench, but into keeping the head of the ratchet in position to get a good twist on the bolt. Whatever, it worked.

Another thought in addition to the TC seal, Matt... I think you mentioned having 3/4" socket hardware.... do you have enough 3/4" extensions to get to those top bolts? If we could use 3/4" (even if adapted to a 1/2" torque wrench and socket) we can minimize the torque loss through the extensions.

SharkSkin

Oh, and Bill, in that one pic you look like a new father lighting up a cigar(O2 sensor) to celebrate the end result of a difficult delivery.

Here's to Bill Ball, TB-TT-Gyn

edco

lorenolson888

Your welcome to come on over for the rebuild my driveway never looked so good. A bunch of 928 is great! But what was really great was all the help! PM me for my address and directions. That offer goes out to anyone who would like to stop over and watch, help etc…

Dave, I will order a TQ seal, I do have a ¾ socket set but not a lot of extensions. I can get some cheep “Post Tool – Harbor Fright" ones this week. What will we need? A 36 inch or 2 18’s something in that order. I have an adaptor for the torque wrench from ½ to ¾ …

As Bill said we got creative with some tips from Sharkskin , lets just say yesterday when we finished I made a trip to Sears to add there BAPB “Big *** Pry Bar” set to my ever growing too selection. I think when we do the write up we can give you a good list of what will be needed tool wise to do the job.

Bill the good part is all the new replacement parts will be clean, look for a thread on the TQ later today. A BIG Thanks to Bill, Dave, Steve & Rob for there help and support. This could not have happened in my driveway without you guys

borland

Great job! This should inspire many to replace their TT and converter bearings that had been putting it off for later.

On the torque converter bearings using a shop press. This is pretty well detailed in the WSM. The bearing housing is small enough to fit in most kitchen ovens.

You guys didn't discuss moving the transmission back for the clutch/bell housing removal. It looks like you could make a cradle for the transmission out of plywood, and support it with a floor jack. That might allow moving it back into position more easily.

Matt, I think what Nicole was suggesting, was the transmission's main pump seal that's located behind the torque converter (TC). That's where some more commonly leak. Your TC shaft seal and pump seal looks to be in fine condition, so I'd leave them alone for now.

borland
90' S4, Slate Metallic

Bill Ball

borland:

The printouts I had from the WSM show a TC that has a MALE shaft rather than the FEMALE coupling we found. Pages dated 1982. Did not see any update. I didn't think there was a completely different arrangement at the TC for early cars. So, we did not feel we should improvise with that.

We did slide the tranny back. It only goes back 1" in the automatics before the pan hits the crossmember. I don't think there is enough room to lift it over the crossmember. Even if you could, that would put the rear TT even higher up in the tunnel and impede the tilt needed to access the upper TT bolts as well as the TC cover. The 1" is enough to get the bellhousing to clear in the front.

ew928

Harbor Freight shows:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=2689

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93779

Great group TT-Ectomy.
Love the twisted TT pictures. Can the short spline piece be saved to keep on your
own Cali shrine or send to Andrew Olson?

Hope the assembly goes smooth.
I'm get the feeling the TT splined end don't go into it's receiver easily.

Ernest (NYC) Sharks hunt better in packs.

borland

Yes, the cradle for moving it forward/back only 1".

The 4 speed automatic is in Volume 3. Look at:

WSM, Vol 3, page 37-130 thru 37-130c.

Where they show a bearing puller used to remove the bearing from the drive flange. I used the shown lower piece of a similar HFT puller to hold the bearing, but used a shop press to do the pushing.

Bill Ball

Borland -

Thanks for the WSM pages! Missed that.

Also, another reason not to move the tranny back any further - all the fluid lines would have to come off.

Bill Ball

Ern:

Interesting tools. Dave and Matt had a couple of REAL long 1/2" extensions. Yes, we should definitely send this one to Andrew!

Mrmerlin

Hi, a suggestion sine the torque converter bearings are being replaced it might be a good idea to replace the front pump O ring seal and the torque converter seal, this can be done with the trans in place, one note of caution, make shure that the inner bushing that the torque converter runs in has been lubed with grease so it wont seize on startup, another thought, put the new T converter bearings in the freezer prior to install they fit better into a warmed housing, and dont try to hammer the flex plate/torque converter drive . Stan