ROG100

I am at the point of putting back the TB center cover and I positioned the tensioner dog leg bracket that effectivly holds the tensioner in place. It is held on the end of the tensioner pin with a small countersunk screw. This bracket also locates with two more bolts into the water pump. My water pump is missing the top hole.
I check and there are two different water pumps.
77-86 928-106-015 KX
87-95 928-105-015 MX
I checked my invoice and I was sold an MX for the 87 I am working on, however the water pump is a KX. The only way I can tell the difference is the missing top hole.
Does this make a difference?
Is the tensioner bracket OK with only two bolts?
Do I need to start again?

ROG100

Here is a picture with the bracket in place.
The locating screw is in the tensioner pin and the second bolt will locate correctly via the TB center cover.
There is no boss on the water pump to screw a third bolt into.

Garth S

Some pumps may not have that boss, but the one I just installed does ( and any previously) - and it is tapped for the center cover bolt, as can be seen in the pic: this bolt also secures the second hole of the cross brace. Note in Mark's pic of a pump in the previous thread - it appears as if the boss is present but untapped:
Why? - that is clearly the early generation of pump good to end of MY '86.5, for it has the large machined boss to accept the idler roller and the carrier arm pivot bolt. (The small boss in question is untapped, as this was pre- cross brace.)
Compare that to the tapped hole for the pivot stud in the S4 pump below: that is the fundamental difference in the two versions of the pump ( bolt vs. stud).
You must have a maverick, if it is missing that boss ....

FlyingDog

The mounting of the idler pulley and the tensioner arm is different between the early and late pumps which should throw off the allignment of all the parts. Looking at the diagram for an 87 in PET it indicates that the bracket is only used after 0660 (manual) and 6736 (slushbox). Maybe you have an early 87 waterpump.

borland

Don't reuse the counter sunk screw. It should not be overtightened, but set lightly with blue locktite.

The pivot pin should come with the pump which identifies the later model pump. If you transferred the pin, you should use a thread sealant when installing the pin on the pump.

I'd send the pump back and get the later, correct pump.

ROG100

Borland,
The pivot pin came off the old pump - direct swop.
The countersunk screw is the least of my problems, however I will take your advice and replace it.


Everything bolts up correctly and all holes line up apart from the top one which has no boss on the WP to screw a nut into.
It would appear that the purpose of the bracket is to stop the idler assy. slipping forward off the pin.
One bolt should hold it in place very well.
However I am going to replace the pump and will be taking it back to Zims tomorrow morning.
I am still at a reasonably easy position to replace the WP without a lot of grief.
Thanks for your help.
Roger

AO

Roger-
If you have any issues returning it, let me know. I'll be in the market for a WP for the GT soon. I also have a core from an '82 (working with metal impeller) that we could probably through into the mix. Anyway, PM if interested, or don't if you're not.

Garth S

I've always assumed that the cross bracket was intended to further stabilize the pivot bolt from deflection due to the bending mode induced by the applied belt tension: I like the idea so much that I had planned to fabricate one for my 16v car and tap it into the head of the pivot bolt ..... which we all know will bend from time to time .... with most unpleasant results on the early 32v cars.

ROG100

Andrew,
Thanks for the thought - however it is going back.
The invoice clearly states that it is an MX for 928-87-
"If the job is worth doing it is worth doing well"
I am sure this is an honest mistake as ZIMs are usually very good.
Roger

ROG100

Garth S,
Very well put.

I am not taking any chances.

Everyday I learn something new about these awesome car
Thanks,
Roger

docmirror

This sucks. I hate trusting others to do stuff. If Zims knew about the SN limitations, they whould have asked about the car when the order was taken. Now I have to go back and do that job again. Well, when you're at Zims get a new cam cover gasket, and I'll get that done too.

Doc

ROG100

Hi Doc,
In Zims defence they did ask me about the MY of the car. The invoice clearly states that the WP is for the correct year as well.
A genuion mistake maybe, however taking it off and doing the job again is a real PITA.
BTW you and Joe did an excellent job of installing the WP.
Roger

soontobered84

Roger,
Have you got Doc doing your dirty work for you now? Or do you just have blackmail material on him?

ROG100

John,
I just give him the easy jobs to do.
Roger

cfc928gt

When I just did the WP on my '89 the shop who had done it before I bought the car used one of those KX earlier model pumps. They only used the one bolt. I guess it worked okay but I feel much better knowing it's now more securely fastened. The plastic bushings in the pivot arm were worn and they allowed the arm to tilt a bit. Since it had only been 24k miles there was no damage done but I don't think I'd have wanted it to be any longer. They never replaced the bushings when they did the WP/TB at the shop. I also bought a ZIMS rebuilt WP and they sent me a new one instead of a rebuilt. Very pleased.