Built me some one jack lift and jackstand bars
#16
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To make better use of my new jack-em-ups*, I bought a big lift/quick pump aluminum jack from Costco last night! 21.5" lift + 2.75" bar = ~2 feet clearance.
How tall is the engine?
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Dave,
Is the hole 'up-in-thar' squashed, or is it only the bell shaped ring deal which is squashed?
My front jack points are beat up, and no longer flat, so I used the round spacers to contact the flat portion inside the bell.
* Don't put any spacers between the jack and the bar on the initial lift!
How tall is the engine?
...
Dave,
Is the hole 'up-in-thar' squashed, or is it only the bell shaped ring deal which is squashed?
My front jack points are beat up, and no longer flat, so I used the round spacers to contact the flat portion inside the bell.
* Don't put any spacers between the jack and the bar on the initial lift!
Last edited by PorKen; 01-15-2006 at 10:41 PM.
#17
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The jacking point on the front pass. side is squashed. If I put a straight edge on the round, flat load-bearing surface, the straight edge will intersect with the ground about 6" away from the outside edge of the rocker panel. So the hole in the jacking point is pointing inward, toward the center of the car. There is no other damage that I can see under there, so it must have been done while lifting.
#18
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Everyone loves a slideshow!
I had to switch the jack side to side...
I managed to get 21" clearance. I didn't get under the car, because the pavement is uneven, and I want BIG stands at full height.
The engine without the intake manifold is about 21" tall to the thermostat bridge, so I need to go to a little higher, on a decent concrete pad.
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Dave,
If you were to have one of these bars*, then that mount could be specially angled to fit.
*This is not a offer to buy, or a solicitation to sell.
#20
Porken - that slideshow is mesmerizing - maybe because I have spent so much time jacking up my 928s I wish I knew how to weld - I would definitely make a couple of these up...
#21
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I think that what I really need to do is have that fixed. I think that's a "Great Idea"® that a lot of folks could use.*
*this is not an endorsement of any vendor or non-vendor's products or non-products.
*this is not an endorsement of any vendor or non-vendor's products or non-products.
#22
Three Wheelin'
Geez, SOMEONE solicit me into buying a pair...I'd love to have those!!
Porken, what a great idea! Do you think you'll be producing or looking for someone else to produce them? You can sign me up for the first batch, that's for sure. Jacking the car is one of the major PITAs for me, so this is a great thing.
Although I don't have access to a metalworking shop, I'd also be interested to get/buy the plans, so that I could take them to a local fabricator for construction.
Anyway, I'm sure you've thought about these things, so please keep us all in the loop as to what you decide to do.
Thanks!
Porken, what a great idea! Do you think you'll be producing or looking for someone else to produce them? You can sign me up for the first batch, that's for sure. Jacking the car is one of the major PITAs for me, so this is a great thing.
Although I don't have access to a metalworking shop, I'd also be interested to get/buy the plans, so that I could take them to a local fabricator for construction.
Anyway, I'm sure you've thought about these things, so please keep us all in the loop as to what you decide to do.
Thanks!
#23
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Andrew,
It was about $60 for the steel*. I'm not sure how much sandblasting/powder coating will cost.
Mad design skillz...priceless**.
__________________
*I bought the steel from a steel yard, in 10' lengths, so I have a lot of angle iron left over.
**But I expect that some beyotch will copy the design and sell it on eBay for <$200.
It was about $60 for the steel*. I'm not sure how much sandblasting/powder coating will cost.
Mad design skillz...priceless**.
__________________
*I bought the steel from a steel yard, in 10' lengths, so I have a lot of angle iron left over.
**But I expect that some beyotch will copy the design and sell it on eBay for <$200.
#24
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I was looking online at stands and I think some big axle-stands would be best. The screw adjustable kind would be slick.
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My metalworker friend, back from vacation, guesstimates that his powder-coater might charge about $100 for a single pair, but for 10, it might only be $250. They do it all, blast and coat.
If I'm lucky, and don't mind the color, I might be able to throw mine in with some of his stair railings or whatever he's doing.
...
Another tip, if you are making one yourself; each side had slightly different spacing between the jack holes*. I haven't figured out how yet, but I'm going to make the rear mount adjustable on mine.
I need to go over to Jim or Joe's house and see if it fits on S4-up bodies. I think the hole spacing is going to be the same, but I don't know yet if the frame channel is unobstructed in the middle, like my OB.
____________________
*about 1/8" or so on my car
...
My metalworker friend, back from vacation, guesstimates that his powder-coater might charge about $100 for a single pair, but for 10, it might only be $250. They do it all, blast and coat.
If I'm lucky, and don't mind the color, I might be able to throw mine in with some of his stair railings or whatever he's doing.
...
Another tip, if you are making one yourself; each side had slightly different spacing between the jack holes*. I haven't figured out how yet, but I'm going to make the rear mount adjustable on mine.
I need to go over to Jim or Joe's house and see if it fits on S4-up bodies. I think the hole spacing is going to be the same, but I don't know yet if the frame channel is unobstructed in the middle, like my OB.
____________________
*about 1/8" or so on my car
#27
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Anyone near their S4->up, with a measuring tape or ruler?
I'm going to the shop in about 1/2 hour, and I'd like to know the approximate depth of the REAR jack hole.
I'm going to the shop in about 1/2 hour, and I'd like to know the approximate depth of the REAR jack hole.
#29
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Heinrich,
And this tells me - what? (Lazy bostich. )
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On an S4-> body, the front is quite shallow, about 1/2", the rear is at least 3/4", but I think it may be 1" or more. (I've been told, deeper is better.)
And this tells me - what? (Lazy bostich. )
...
On an S4-> body, the front is quite shallow, about 1/2", the rear is at least 3/4", but I think it may be 1" or more. (I've been told, deeper is better.)