largecar379

NO Sh**!!!!!

leave it to another MOPAR guy to input some thing (that we've worked on for decades) that could help greatly in the quest for better oiling.......

(wish I still had my '64 SS/DA car........)

6.0-928S

largecar379

you could just drop one of these in there.......

less weight
636 CI
1120 hp
930 torque

about the same cost as a 928 stroker...........and it will fit.

(Why didn't I think of this sooner...........?)

--Russ

BC

A 928 stroker is about 10k 15k if you want to do it Louie's way with ITB. How much is that motor? And I can't see where I plug in. People under 40 don't know what a float or Jet IS, let alone how to tune a car with a carb.

marton

Stan posted
I also heard it said that was only unheard of on pre-83 motors because they changed the sump design & oil pick up on 83 & later (to save cost?).

But there are contrary posts (like JimB) to say also 2/6 problems on early motors like 4.5. I assume Jim did check the oil level frequently

Marton

largecar379

I wasn't really serious about it.....but it is an alternative. the engine pictured runs on (at least) 116 octane race gas, has a CR of nearly 16:1, so it really isn't a street engine at all. the street version is a little more tame, with only 605 ci/10.5:1 CR, 830 hp and 780 torque......

or you can get a wedge engine for a little less money, but about the same performance specs.

plugging it in is probably no more difficult that the Renegade/SBC kits......

I've done the price comparisons back and forth for some time now, and it's just a matter of keeping "Porsche" or not.

--Russ

6.0-928S

That's OK Brendan, as you know, I don't know how to 'shark tune' my stroker w/ITBs either, but I could tune a carbureted (2 X 4 crossram) Race Hemi in my sleep.
Hammer

Charley B

Give me a full race Ford flathead V8 with twin Strombergs and I'll have it singing "Take me out to the ballgame" in short order.

6.0-928S

That's another sweeeet sound!
Of course that would also fit in a 928!

Hammer

Daniel Dudley

A lot of good info has come from you posting this thread. Sorry if I implied something that was not intended to be insulting.

Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net

Hi Daniel,

Sorry if you thought I was offended. No offense taken at all.

I appreciate yours, and others, comments. Often a different perspective will shed light on something.

Seriously though, if you saw my garage, you wouldn't suggest that I should get another project going. My problem is too many already. I could have worse habits, and I keep my car addiction costs separate from the household budget, so my wife tolerates my foolishness.

Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net

I know this is an offhand comment, but this is basically the cost of the parts for a stroker build. I know many here will do their own motor work, so your estimate is reasonable for many, but for anyone intending to pay labor costs, the number could easily double, right? Of course if you forgo 968 valved heads, the ITBs, drysump, you can save money.

Off the top of my head, (these are very round numbers):
$3k for a crank
$1.5k for rods
$1k for used 968 pistons then coated
$1k for block boring and lapping
$4k for head work with 968 valves (labor included here)
$1.5k for custom cams
$2k for exhaust

For a track car, some other upgrades:
$1.5k for clutch
$3k for ITB
$3.5k for a GT trans.
$3k for drysump
$3k for custom electronics (Motec, DTA, etc)
$1k fuel pump upgrades

Assembly labor for all not included, except the heads.

I better stop before I hurt myself

atb

I'll up you a pair of Arduns, sitting under a 371 Jimmy topped with a six pack of Strombergs singing "Play Misty for Me" and I'll even leave the Uni-syn on the bench.

Charley B

BC