Louie928

Mike,
That's not 100% true. Those conditions can happen, but not always. There are many 928's using the SMT-6 with ignition advance that do run perfectly. Some don't and I've never been able to figure out why. The extended cranking period when using the crank trigger only happens with the engine warm, but normal cranking time with a cold engine. Some 928s have normal cranking period whether warm or cold, but the longer cranking time when warm is what usually happens. A GTS with stroker motor (not Devek built) at Devek's last spring was impossible to reliably start if using the ignition advance mode and that is the worst I've seen. It seemed to have very high compression. The battery was in poor shape and it turned over slowly when cranking. It worked fine in ignition retard mode. The problem was pinging at part throttle so ignition retard was the way to go anyway there. My own '87 S4 has both the sometimes longer cranking when hot using the crank trigger, and the miss with EZ-K trigger and seems to be worst case. I use the crank trigger and live with the longer cranking when hot issue. It's never failed to start. Funny thing, it seems worse in California. Maybe the gas is all I can think of. The slight miss when using the EZ-K/F trigger is rare to have happen, but sometimes does. A couple of cars that use the EZ -K/F trigger and work fine with no missing come to mind. Dennis Wilson's '88 auto stroker with GT+ cams, and Rick Carter's much modified, now TS'd, '85. I think Rick's has been running with a SMT-6 for a couple of years now.

mspiegle

dangit. I always get myself in trouble when I use the words "always" or "never". Whoops... .did it again

So if you're interested in the SMT6 for ignition tuning, Louie has the best explanation above of what could happen.

Cameron

Who knows the part number for the heat exchanger that Andy is using for the intercooler? I don't have it written down, but recall that it is a transmission oil cooler from a Ford Aerostar or Windstar. I would also need the year. Anyone have the details?

Edit: For clarity, I am not referring to the intercooler itself. The little radiator that is mounted in the front of the car where the cooling flaps are / would be.

Thanks,

Rick Carter

SC install is almost done and I drove it a few miles today. Boost seems to be 7 or 8 pounds but I'm taking it pretty easy until I'm sure the TB is staying put and it's tuned using the SMT-6. If all goes well, next weekend should be dyno time. How many times have I said that? A paper gasket with anaerobic sealer was used instead of the supplied rubber intake gasket. This lowered the intake and SC about 1/16" and a shorter SC belt was needed. The SC belt tensioner was moved from the driver's side (US) to the passenger's side.

Bill Ball

Sounds good, Rick. The lower the better, so the pulley doesn't contact the hoodliner like it did on my car (although I have a larger pulley). Keep us posted on the dyno and tuning!

Rick Carter

Bill,
This is why it was done, the pulley was rubbing up against the hoodliner so a small square was cut out above the pulley. This was a better solution but the cut out is still there. Moving the tensioner to the other side (opposite how it is in my Avatar) should maintain tension better over time.

Jim_H

http://www.radiatorexpress.com/
1998 Ford Winstar 3.0l V6 heater core, front replacement
7 3/8"x7 1/2"x2"
F5BH-18476-BA

Cameron

Jim,

Thanks!!

I want to add another in series. I will mount it right beside. This one with a puller fan. It gets mighty hot here in Florida in the summer.

Comments?

Jim_H

I considered doing that but for the short time I had it I didn't have heating problems.
I would like to find one about the same height but the same width as the radiator

Warren928

Anybody thought about making your own complete IC units to add 40-60 hp to the base kit?

I met a guy a few miles away that builds bar and plate intercoolers, I saw his work and its great. I am going to get a quote.

Q for the IC'd TS people: 1) What size is the intercooler bar and plate setup under the manifold for those IC'd units, 2) how is the unit mounted and 3) water run to the outside?

I figure that with the water pump off the typhoon, Aerostar heater core, hoses, a water tank, hose fittings, the bar and plate core (need correct sizing), a few metal brackets and alittle direction I will have a second intercooler setup that I need.
All the parts will cost less than $200 excluding the bar and plate core, so this is a reasonable upgrade worth 2 -3 psi more.
All we need is a quote on the core and modification to the manifold. Maybe just cutting the lower part of the manifold is all thats needed, not sure on that but comments are welcome. Is welding needed for the core to sit under the manifold correctly and some fittings added? Or is the IC core bolted underneath the manifold?

Thanks to all who have responded and have a good weekend.

Cameron

My power steering pump belt likes to walk out towards the lower rad hose. Anyone else have this problem? Obvious next questions, did you find a solution? I don't want to have the belt cut the rad hose again.

Thanks,

blau928

You could zip tie the hose closer to the rad, like say on to the oil cooler line.. not pretty, but functional insurance...

HTH

Cameron

I have the rad hose zip tied to the fan shroud, so it is somewhat out of the way. It the belt walks all the way out, it still may nick the rad hose, or at the very least it will fall off leaving me without power steering.

No one else has this problem?

Bill Ball

Cameron:

Install an early model radiator hose. Fits perfectly and eliminates the belt clearance issue.

I've had the belt walking issue too. First, this type of multi-rib belt must be tighter than a v-belt. In my case the power steering pulley Andy provided was set back too far. I had a spacer made that fit under it. It still walks a bit sometimes, but it used to walk 2-3 ribs. I'll measure the spacer for you.

mspiegle

Are you guys sure that your PS pullies are on the right way? I think there's 2 ways to put it on (backwards and not backwards)