Installing an Aftermarket Remote Entry System?
12-06-2005, 09:31 PM
#16
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Roger: Does the alarm switchoff whenyou just open the hatch, or do you have to unlock the car first before opening the hatch?
I'd be interested to see the diagram you have. Bill had suggested before that I could add a remote but remember he had some issues with the hatch and the alarm.
I'd be interested to see the diagram you have. Bill had suggested before that I could add a remote but remember he had some issues with the hatch and the alarm.
12-06-2005, 09:40 PM
#17
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Hi,
Id like to see that diagram as well after all the hours I have spent pulling my hair out over this
All the best Brett
928 S2 AUTO V8 4.7 LTR 1986 IRIS METALLIC BLUE WITH PROMAX CHIPS, RMB, KICKDOWN SWITCH.
Id like to see that diagram as well after all the hours I have spent pulling my hair out over this
All the best Brett
928 S2 AUTO V8 4.7 LTR 1986 IRIS METALLIC BLUE WITH PROMAX CHIPS, RMB, KICKDOWN SWITCH.
12-07-2005, 01:14 AM
#19
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You might want to check out the thread "remote door locks" from more than a year ago. Among other things, that thread (in post #11) included the schematic for the installation I did on my '90 S4. El cheapo unit and installation that's still working just fine today.
12-07-2005, 04:02 AM
#20
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Hey Randy,
I did mine with extensive help from Alan. Getting the hatch to open remotely does require the addition of a few new wires, a new relay for the hatch and the re-wire of the hatch release switches. Not hard, just time consuming.
The way mine is wired, unlocking the hatch, disarms the alarm and there is no need to open a door first.
Here is the diagram. Again, all the credit goes to Alan.
The Central Electric addresses are probably different for your MY
Paul
I did mine with extensive help from Alan. Getting the hatch to open remotely does require the addition of a few new wires, a new relay for the hatch and the re-wire of the hatch release switches. Not hard, just time consuming.
The way mine is wired, unlocking the hatch, disarms the alarm and there is no need to open a door first.
Here is the diagram. Again, all the credit goes to Alan.
The Central Electric addresses are probably different for your MY
Paul
Last edited by Champagne; 12-07-2005 at 05:21 AM.
12-07-2005, 09:04 AM
#21
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Randy,
Again, just FYI, your's is going to be a bit different from Paul's 88. Your alarm is under the pass seat (which needs to be removed), and I think a few of the wires are coded differently. There was a post for a 91GT schematic (I think). I'll see if I can find it.
Edit #1: Found it. Look at Post #11 from Ed Scherer
Remote Door Locks
Edit #2: Woops... wait a minute... that's not the one I was thinking about... But it's another diagram nonetheless. I'll see if I can find the one I was thinking of.
Edit #3: Well... I can't find it. I have the diagrams saved on my home PC (I think). I'll see if I can find them. But you should cantact Alan. He has a GTS and can probably give you EXACT instructions for everything your heart desires.
Again, just FYI, your's is going to be a bit different from Paul's 88. Your alarm is under the pass seat (which needs to be removed), and I think a few of the wires are coded differently. There was a post for a 91GT schematic (I think). I'll see if I can find it.
Edit #1: Found it. Look at Post #11 from Ed Scherer
Remote Door Locks
Edit #2: Woops... wait a minute... that's not the one I was thinking about... But it's another diagram nonetheless. I'll see if I can find the one I was thinking of.
Edit #3: Well... I can't find it. I have the diagrams saved on my home PC (I think). I'll see if I can find them. But you should cantact Alan. He has a GTS and can probably give you EXACT instructions for everything your heart desires.
Last edited by AO; 12-07-2005 at 09:37 AM.
12-07-2005, 11:58 AM
#22
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Hi Guys,
It is fairly easy once you understand whats going on.
A simple $50 keyless entry should work for you Randy. On your '94 the alarm is under the passenger seat and this make installation relatively easy (once the seat is out) since almost everyting you need is right there.
My factory amp is gone so the sill panel next to the passenger seat is a great location for the module (works well).
The hatch release door interlock works via a switched ground which is directly driven from the door pin switches. Easiest path is to simply switch this to a permanent ground at the motor. I decided to keep the door interlock for the pull switches - so I wired the buttons to use the existing switched ground and have them operate via the relay for the remote hatch opener. I was able to do this without any new wiring forward to the buttons. You will stil need to wire from the driver hatch pull across to the passenger side (quite easy). Forthe hatch release you also need 1 wire from the keyless running back to the release motor.
You of course have to connect the keyless entry hatch release signal via a relay to operate the motor and it must also go to the alarm hatch disarm (different from the doors). This operates the hatch alarm suspend mode - does not unlock the doors and auto resumes on closure (no all models have this...)
You probably want to flash the lights and/or honk the horn for confirmation/alarm - you will need built in or additional relays for these features. The turn signals and horn also go to the alarm - so its all right there...
As Roger says - there is a GTS diagram I developed for him... I can send it to you Randy, you are lucky - the GTS is probably the easiest of all to do... It varies for other years and can be a little more complex (e.g. Pauls) - but basically all the electric lock cars are quite feasible.
Once you have it you will wonder how you ever did without it (and why it wasn't standard - on a GTS at least).
Alan
It is fairly easy once you understand whats going on.
A simple $50 keyless entry should work for you Randy. On your '94 the alarm is under the passenger seat and this make installation relatively easy (once the seat is out) since almost everyting you need is right there.
My factory amp is gone so the sill panel next to the passenger seat is a great location for the module (works well).
The hatch release door interlock works via a switched ground which is directly driven from the door pin switches. Easiest path is to simply switch this to a permanent ground at the motor. I decided to keep the door interlock for the pull switches - so I wired the buttons to use the existing switched ground and have them operate via the relay for the remote hatch opener. I was able to do this without any new wiring forward to the buttons. You will stil need to wire from the driver hatch pull across to the passenger side (quite easy). Forthe hatch release you also need 1 wire from the keyless running back to the release motor.
You of course have to connect the keyless entry hatch release signal via a relay to operate the motor and it must also go to the alarm hatch disarm (different from the doors). This operates the hatch alarm suspend mode - does not unlock the doors and auto resumes on closure (no all models have this...)
You probably want to flash the lights and/or honk the horn for confirmation/alarm - you will need built in or additional relays for these features. The turn signals and horn also go to the alarm - so its all right there...
As Roger says - there is a GTS diagram I developed for him... I can send it to you Randy, you are lucky - the GTS is probably the easiest of all to do... It varies for other years and can be a little more complex (e.g. Pauls) - but basically all the electric lock cars are quite feasible.
Once you have it you will wonder how you ever did without it (and why it wasn't standard - on a GTS at least).
Alan
12-07-2005, 12:19 PM
#23
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Nicole,
On S4's+ the hatch key has 2 electrical positions as well as its physical unlock function. As you open the hatch the key sends a -ve pulse to a special alarm input. I like to think of this as the "hatch alarm suspend".
It does not unlock the doors - it temporarily turns off the alarm (if you disconnect it the alarm will sound when you open the hatch).
Once you close the hatch the alarm will automatically rearm itself if it was armed before you opened it. This is actually a very cool feature if you think of typical usage....
The anticlockwise turn of the hatch key (yes you can) arms the alarm and locks the doors. So again if you had not yet locked the doors but open & close the hatch you can lock the car & set the alarm from the rear hatch. You can also hold the key in the anticlockwise position and sequentially close the sunroof & windows just like with the door locks. It actually is wired to the exact same alarm inputs.
You can also set a keyless entry to do this - most will allow for a 15 second long lock activation pulse if you continue to press the button. I have mine wired like this. I also have my second stage unlock (press unlock twice in quick succession) set to unlock the doors on stage 1 and release the hatch on stage 2 (I'm a bit iffy on this feature since sometimes I get the hatch open when I didn't intend to).
Alan
On S4's+ the hatch key has 2 electrical positions as well as its physical unlock function. As you open the hatch the key sends a -ve pulse to a special alarm input. I like to think of this as the "hatch alarm suspend".
It does not unlock the doors - it temporarily turns off the alarm (if you disconnect it the alarm will sound when you open the hatch).
Once you close the hatch the alarm will automatically rearm itself if it was armed before you opened it. This is actually a very cool feature if you think of typical usage....
The anticlockwise turn of the hatch key (yes you can) arms the alarm and locks the doors. So again if you had not yet locked the doors but open & close the hatch you can lock the car & set the alarm from the rear hatch. You can also hold the key in the anticlockwise position and sequentially close the sunroof & windows just like with the door locks. It actually is wired to the exact same alarm inputs.
You can also set a keyless entry to do this - most will allow for a 15 second long lock activation pulse if you continue to press the button. I have mine wired like this. I also have my second stage unlock (press unlock twice in quick succession) set to unlock the doors on stage 1 and release the hatch on stage 2 (I'm a bit iffy on this feature since sometimes I get the hatch open when I didn't intend to).
Alan
12-07-2005, 12:48 PM
#24
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Nicole:
I have not done the hatch release as it requires some re-wiring, as you see, it varies from MY to MY, and I am concerned about preservng the door interlock, but allowing it to be bypassed as long as the engine is not running. I've collected all the wiring diagrams and discussions but haven't sorted it all out. It may be as simple as following one of the existing schemes but I'm real slow at electrics.
I have not done the hatch release as it requires some re-wiring, as you see, it varies from MY to MY, and I am concerned about preservng the door interlock, but allowing it to be bypassed as long as the engine is not running. I've collected all the wiring diagrams and discussions but haven't sorted it all out. It may be as simple as following one of the existing schemes but I'm real slow at electrics.
Last edited by Bill Ball; 12-07-2005 at 03:14 PM.
12-07-2005, 01:01 PM
#25
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Bill,
You can easily just about have it both ways - Door pulls with interlock & remote without is really quite easy. It is possible to create a lockout as you describe for ignition on... however is it really needed?
I always though the interlock was a bit of overkill anyway... if you did pop the hatch @ speed what would happen?
I'd speculate:
1) Nothing much except extra wind noise
2) If you are going fast enough the wing downforce will keep it closed anyway!
Anyway if you still want it - simply create a supply for the hatch motor relay from another relay with coil activated by the ignition bus 15. When not activated it should feeds battery bus 30 to normally closed terminal 87A for your power feed.
When you start the car the relay supply for the hatch motor is cut off.
Then simply wire the door pulls to activate via the relay also - voila.
Needless to say - I only went as far as the door pull interlock as in the above post. I have my limits.
Alan
You can easily just about have it both ways - Door pulls with interlock & remote without is really quite easy. It is possible to create a lockout as you describe for ignition on... however is it really needed?
I always though the interlock was a bit of overkill anyway... if you did pop the hatch @ speed what would happen?
I'd speculate:
1) Nothing much except extra wind noise
2) If you are going fast enough the wing downforce will keep it closed anyway!
Anyway if you still want it - simply create a supply for the hatch motor relay from another relay with coil activated by the ignition bus 15. When not activated it should feeds battery bus 30 to normally closed terminal 87A for your power feed.
When you start the car the relay supply for the hatch motor is cut off.
Then simply wire the door pulls to activate via the relay also - voila.
Needless to say - I only went as far as the door pull interlock as in the above post. I have my limits.
Alan
12-07-2005, 01:52 PM
#26
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Alan:
Thanks for the advice. I worry that I'm going to inadvertently hit one of the remote buttons accidentally and have all kinds of odd things happen, like the alarm arming and the car shutting down on the highway. It seems that can't happen, although I wouldn't be able to figure that out from the wiring diagrams despite your tutorial. So, that hatch thing was just along those lines. A little paranoia goes a long way, at least when it comes to me and electrical devices.
Thanks for the advice. I worry that I'm going to inadvertently hit one of the remote buttons accidentally and have all kinds of odd things happen, like the alarm arming and the car shutting down on the highway. It seems that can't happen, although I wouldn't be able to figure that out from the wiring diagrams despite your tutorial. So, that hatch thing was just along those lines. A little paranoia goes a long way, at least when it comes to me and electrical devices.
Last edited by Bill Ball; 12-07-2005 at 03:15 PM.
12-07-2005, 02:21 PM
#27
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Alan-
Your explanations assume we have a working knowledge of electronics and relays. My knowledge is very limited. but I'm starting to learn!
So I need to ask a silly question to flash the lights. 
I picked up the relay that I need from Radio Shack. Now, from the alarm module on my 91 GT, there is a right and left light (see pins 8&9 on Term I below). Can I simply bridge this? or do I need two separate relays?
Randy and others-
I found this in the Workshop manuals under "Instruments, Fuel Gauge, Alarm System." This is exactly how my GT is and I assume this is the same for GTS's. This chart is much easier to read than the wire diagrams - Only problem is there are no color codes.
Your explanations assume we have a working knowledge of electronics and relays. My knowledge is very limited. but I'm starting to learn!
So I need to ask a silly question to flash the lights. I picked up the relay that I need from Radio Shack. Now, from the alarm module on my 91 GT, there is a right and left light (see pins 8&9 on Term I below). Can I simply bridge this? or do I need two separate relays?
Randy and others-
I found this in the Workshop manuals under "Instruments, Fuel Gauge, Alarm System." This is exactly how my GT is and I assume this is the same for GTS's. This chart is much easier to read than the wire diagrams - Only problem is there are no color codes.
Last edited by AO; 12-07-2005 at 03:48 PM.
12-07-2005, 03:52 PM
#28
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Andrew,
If you just bridge them your lights (turn signals?) will always be on together (you just shorted them to each other!) bad thing.
So 2 options:
A) 2 relays one for each.
Or
B) Since lots of keyless entry systems have an internal lighting relay (and you'd still need 2 more relays)...
Use the internal relay and 2 diodes to feed each turn signal light circuit. You can get diodes at radio shack etc - ask for 5A rectifier diodes.
They look a lot like resistors (cylindrical body with a wire exiting each end). They are polarized devices and only conduct in one direction. You need the positive ends to go to your relay + output (both of them) and the negative ends to go to each of the turn signal lines. See Pauls post for examples of diodes in the circuit - we needed a bunch for his '88 as well as the physical representation. I prefer diodes over relays - but you havve to figure out how to mount them securely - I recommend to at least solder to wires & encapsulate with shrink wrap.
Randy - Here is a diagram for a GTS install - See Andrews post for connection points on the alarm module...
Adding here the translation key back to the Porsche connector names Andrew posted....
Connector II pin 1 Activate/Closed = Arm/Lock
Connector II pin 2 Deactivate/Open = Disarm/Unlock
Connector II pin 4 Tailgate Lock(eh!) = Hatch Disarm
Connector I Pin 8 Turn Signal Left = Left Turn Signal
Connector I Pin 9 Turn Signal Right = Right Turn Signal
Connector I Pin 10 Horn = Horn
Connector I Pin 1 Term. 30 = +12v battery power (30)
Connector I Pin 2 Term. 31 = Ground (Gnd)
[Connector I Pin 6 Term. 15 = Ignition]
Note that Porsche is very confused calling the Hatch Disable the "Tailgate Lock" - (tailgate UNLOCK) maybe...
Also if your amp is removed you should have a red 30 & Brown 31 wire for the amp still there - may be easier than wiring power from the alarm unit....
Alan
If you just bridge them your lights (turn signals?) will always be on together (you just shorted them to each other!) bad thing.
So 2 options:
A) 2 relays one for each.
Or
B) Since lots of keyless entry systems have an internal lighting relay (and you'd still need 2 more relays)...
Use the internal relay and 2 diodes to feed each turn signal light circuit. You can get diodes at radio shack etc - ask for 5A rectifier diodes.
They look a lot like resistors (cylindrical body with a wire exiting each end). They are polarized devices and only conduct in one direction. You need the positive ends to go to your relay + output (both of them) and the negative ends to go to each of the turn signal lines. See Pauls post for examples of diodes in the circuit - we needed a bunch for his '88 as well as the physical representation. I prefer diodes over relays - but you havve to figure out how to mount them securely - I recommend to at least solder to wires & encapsulate with shrink wrap.
Randy - Here is a diagram for a GTS install - See Andrews post for connection points on the alarm module...
Adding here the translation key back to the Porsche connector names Andrew posted....
Connector II pin 1 Activate/Closed = Arm/Lock
Connector II pin 2 Deactivate/Open = Disarm/Unlock
Connector II pin 4 Tailgate Lock(eh!) = Hatch Disarm
Connector I Pin 8 Turn Signal Left = Left Turn Signal
Connector I Pin 9 Turn Signal Right = Right Turn Signal
Connector I Pin 10 Horn = Horn
Connector I Pin 1 Term. 30 = +12v battery power (30)
Connector I Pin 2 Term. 31 = Ground (Gnd)
[Connector I Pin 6 Term. 15 = Ignition]
Note that Porsche is very confused calling the Hatch Disable the "Tailgate Lock" - (tailgate UNLOCK) maybe...
Also if your amp is removed you should have a red 30 & Brown 31 wire for the amp still there - may be easier than wiring power from the alarm unit....
Alan
Last edited by Alan; 12-07-2005 at 05:13 PM. Reason: Added terminal ID's vs the alarm module
12-07-2005, 03:58 PM
#29
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Alan-
Thank you. I didn't know what the diode was for/function. I'll swing by RS tonight on the way home. I think I can handle this now!
Thank you. I didn't know what the diode was for/function. I'll swing by RS tonight on the way home. I think I can handle this now!
12-07-2005, 04:10 PM
#30
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Bill,
Although you could make the hatch open with the remote & the car running you could not cause any other mayhem. Once the alarm is disarmed & the ignition turned on - all the alarm funtions are disabled - this is a feature of the factory alarm.
So you cannot arm the alarm with the ignition on and the alarm can't disable the ignition once the car is started... a good thing I agree.
Alan
Although you could make the hatch open with the remote & the car running you could not cause any other mayhem. Once the alarm is disarmed & the ignition turned on - all the alarm funtions are disabled - this is a feature of the factory alarm.
So you cannot arm the alarm with the ignition on and the alarm can't disable the ignition once the car is started... a good thing I agree.
Alan