Holbert car problem. Could be big. Advice regarding rear wheel bearing or CV joints
08-16-2005, 01:29 AM
#31
That thing should spin right off with enough impact from a good gun.
08-16-2005, 01:42 AM
#32
Heat it first mark(propane type torch is fine), and spray some good penetrating oil on and let it soak a while beforehand, but mine did come right off, as Brendon observed above(i used a Mac 1/2" impact gun)
08-16-2005, 03:23 AM
#33
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Mark, you need 3/4 inch equipment for this. Is there a Harbor Freight in your area? Maybe some 1/2 inch will survive but many will break. I got the nut off easily by jumping on a 2 foot bar.
You don't remove anything that affects alignment.
I'd come over, bring the right tools and help you, but I know you're too impatient to wait for the weekend.
You don't remove anything that affects alignment.
I'd come over, bring the right tools and help you, but I know you're too impatient to wait for the weekend.
08-16-2005, 02:21 PM
#34
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Mark;
You can loosen the axle nut with the wheel in place...at least with the stock wheel. This is probably the safest way to approach the job, given the breaking forces involved.
While I am sure that it is possible to remove the axle nut with a 1/2" impact wrench and suitable socket (apparently some Chrysler and Honda vehicles have 32mm front axle nuts and auto parts stores sell a special socket setup for impact wrenchs to remove these), I bent two 1/2" breaker bars and could not even budge the nut.
It will actually feel like you are going to shear the axle off or at least that was my experience. I ended up with a good soaking in penetrating oil, then a 3/4" breaker, 5" extender and a 32mm 6 pint socket. Add a 3ft iron pipe to this mix and a few well-placed hops on the end of the pipe and the nut breaks free. Be sure to have the car on the ground, wheels chocked and the park brake set for this.
Tony's jack method is both elegant and effective...just wish I had thought of it before picking up my 3/4" gear. Oh, well, it will come in handy for something lese, I'm sure.
BTW: You can do a reasonable job of tightening the axle nut to 332 ft-lbs. Just do the math based ono your weight to get the right spot to apply it to a lever arm. For the 200lbs person, that would be approx. 20" from the axle center. Don't jump on the lever at that distance, just apply the weight evenly until the turning stops. Then drop my the nearest truck tire repair depot and ask them to check the torque on the nuts for you. That's what I did anyway.
Regards,
SteveCo in St. John's
You can loosen the axle nut with the wheel in place...at least with the stock wheel. This is probably the safest way to approach the job, given the breaking forces involved.
While I am sure that it is possible to remove the axle nut with a 1/2" impact wrench and suitable socket (apparently some Chrysler and Honda vehicles have 32mm front axle nuts and auto parts stores sell a special socket setup for impact wrenchs to remove these), I bent two 1/2" breaker bars and could not even budge the nut.
It will actually feel like you are going to shear the axle off or at least that was my experience. I ended up with a good soaking in penetrating oil, then a 3/4" breaker, 5" extender and a 32mm 6 pint socket. Add a 3ft iron pipe to this mix and a few well-placed hops on the end of the pipe and the nut breaks free. Be sure to have the car on the ground, wheels chocked and the park brake set for this.
Tony's jack method is both elegant and effective...just wish I had thought of it before picking up my 3/4" gear. Oh, well, it will come in handy for something lese, I'm sure.
BTW: You can do a reasonable job of tightening the axle nut to 332 ft-lbs. Just do the math based ono your weight to get the right spot to apply it to a lever arm. For the 200lbs person, that would be approx. 20" from the axle center. Don't jump on the lever at that distance, just apply the weight evenly until the turning stops. Then drop my the nearest truck tire repair depot and ask them to check the torque on the nuts for you. That's what I did anyway.
Regards,
SteveCo in St. John's
08-16-2005, 05:26 PM
#35
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Great ideas. I think ill soak it with oil tonight and attack again with the big box end wrench tomorrow. (or maybe take Bill up on his offer this weekend! THANKS BILL!!)
anyway, it sure did a number on the 1/2" beaker bar. (broke) the air tool just didnt do it, but i didnt want to loose all my NOS on the job running the air tool.
so, Plan B.
Mk
anyway, it sure did a number on the 1/2" beaker bar. (broke) the air tool just didnt do it, but i didnt want to loose all my NOS on the job running the air tool.
so, Plan B.
Mk
Originally Posted by SteveCo
Mark;
You can loosen the axle nut with the wheel in place...at least with the stock wheel. This is probably the safest way to approach the job, given the breaking forces involved.
While I am sure that it is possible to remove the axle nut with a 1/2" impact wrench and suitable socket (apparently some Chrysler and Honda vehicles have 32mm front axle nuts and auto parts stores sell a special socket setup for impact wrenchs to remove these), I bent two 1/2" breaker bars and could not even budge the nut.
It will actually feel like you are going to shear the axle off or at least that was my experience. I ended up with a good soaking in penetrating oil, then a 3/4" breaker, 5" extender and a 32mm 6 pint socket. Add a 3ft iron pipe to this mix and a few well-placed hops on the end of the pipe and the nut breaks free. Be sure to have the car on the ground, wheels chocked and the park brake set for this.
Tony's jack method is both elegant and effective...just wish I had thought of it before picking up my 3/4" gear. Oh, well, it will come in handy for something lese, I'm sure.
BTW: You can do a reasonable job of tightening the axle nut to 332 ft-lbs. Just do the math based ono your weight to get the right spot to apply it to a lever arm. For the 200lbs person, that would be approx. 20" from the axle center. Don't jump on the lever at that distance, just apply the weight evenly until the turning stops. Then drop my the nearest truck tire repair depot and ask them to check the torque on the nuts for you. That's what I did anyway.
Regards,
SteveCo in St. John's
You can loosen the axle nut with the wheel in place...at least with the stock wheel. This is probably the safest way to approach the job, given the breaking forces involved.
While I am sure that it is possible to remove the axle nut with a 1/2" impact wrench and suitable socket (apparently some Chrysler and Honda vehicles have 32mm front axle nuts and auto parts stores sell a special socket setup for impact wrenchs to remove these), I bent two 1/2" breaker bars and could not even budge the nut.
It will actually feel like you are going to shear the axle off or at least that was my experience. I ended up with a good soaking in penetrating oil, then a 3/4" breaker, 5" extender and a 32mm 6 pint socket. Add a 3ft iron pipe to this mix and a few well-placed hops on the end of the pipe and the nut breaks free. Be sure to have the car on the ground, wheels chocked and the park brake set for this.
Tony's jack method is both elegant and effective...just wish I had thought of it before picking up my 3/4" gear. Oh, well, it will come in handy for something lese, I'm sure.
BTW: You can do a reasonable job of tightening the axle nut to 332 ft-lbs. Just do the math based ono your weight to get the right spot to apply it to a lever arm. For the 200lbs person, that would be approx. 20" from the axle center. Don't jump on the lever at that distance, just apply the weight evenly until the turning stops. Then drop my the nearest truck tire repair depot and ask them to check the torque on the nuts for you. That's what I did anyway.
Regards,
SteveCo in St. John's
08-16-2005, 06:29 PM
#36
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Mark,
How long did you have the rattle wrench on it? I had to hold the wrench (1/2" impact @ 100psi) on it for probably about three minutes straight. It didn't look like it was doing anything at all, then it finally started turning.
If the breaker bar doesn't work after soaking it, grab a stool, make yourself comfortable, and let the airwrench crank on it for awhile.
How long did you have the rattle wrench on it? I had to hold the wrench (1/2" impact @ 100psi) on it for probably about three minutes straight. It didn't look like it was doing anything at all, then it finally started turning.
If the breaker bar doesn't work after soaking it, grab a stool, make yourself comfortable, and let the airwrench crank on it for awhile.
08-16-2005, 06:58 PM
#37
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that sounds like what mine will need. I cant do the 3 min on the air tools, as i have only a bottle of NOS (10lb bottle) i use for filling tires all season. its ok for cracking engine crank bolts, but just for a few seconds to break things like that free. may have to show up at the shop and break it free there tomorrow am.
MK
MK
Originally Posted by atb
Mark,
How long did you have the rattle wrench on it? I had to hold the wrench (1/2" impact @ 100psi) on it for probably about three minutes straight. It didn't look like it was doing anything at all, then it finally started turning.
If the breaker bar doesn't work after soaking it, grab a stool, make yourself comfortable, and let the airwrench crank on it for awhile.
How long did you have the rattle wrench on it? I had to hold the wrench (1/2" impact @ 100psi) on it for probably about three minutes straight. It didn't look like it was doing anything at all, then it finally started turning.
If the breaker bar doesn't work after soaking it, grab a stool, make yourself comfortable, and let the airwrench crank on it for awhile.
08-16-2005, 07:39 PM
#38
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IRRC the threads are a slight interference fit. meaning once loose, your fingers wont take it off. Mine need a wrench until it was OFF ..period.
08-16-2005, 07:45 PM
#39
"IRRC the threads are a slight interference fit. meaning once loose, your fingers wont take it off. Mine need a wrench until it was OFF ..period."
Mine too.
On the air gun, as was mentioned above let it run for a while. The air gun has a hammering effect, the longer it's on, the more apt it is to break the bolt loose.
Mine too.
On the air gun, as was mentioned above let it run for a while. The air gun has a hammering effect, the longer it's on, the more apt it is to break the bolt loose.
08-16-2005, 08:04 PM
#40
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To gain more power from the air gun squirt some compressor oil into where the air hose attaches. Re-attach the hose and spin the gun a few times............then try loosening the nut.
08-16-2005, 09:58 PM
#41
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Mark:
I can come by Friday afternoon/evening or Saturday, if you are still huffing and puffing on this. These things often require 500 ft lbs to break lose. I have 3/4 inch tools. I understand you can replace the bearing yourself, but I have not done it. I just removed the hub carrier and took it to the shop and let them do it. You like destroying things, so we could give that a go. Order the new bearing in the meantime.
I can come by Friday afternoon/evening or Saturday, if you are still huffing and puffing on this. These things often require 500 ft lbs to break lose. I have 3/4 inch tools. I understand you can replace the bearing yourself, but I have not done it. I just removed the hub carrier and took it to the shop and let them do it. You like destroying things, so we could give that a go. Order the new bearing in the meantime.
08-17-2005, 03:40 PM
#42
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thanks Bill. youre the greatest! Hey, this morning i had to visit a customer near my house and near CTautomotive, so i drove the 928 to CT and it was like a nascar pitstop. Chris had the air gun and 32mm socket on the nut before i could even get out of the car! 5 seconds it was spinning and spun back on loosely to get me home!!!
so, thats done. Now, i have to get the hub off by the top control arm release, and the long bottom shock stud/bolt removal. (and all the ebrake mumbo jumbo) hopefully there are no gotchas. then, back to CT tomorrow hopefully where they will pull off the part that holes the wheels studs and presses into the bearing, and pull the bearing out of the hub.
I just got the bearing! NOW THATS A BEARIING!! wow, its huge!
Mk
still howling!
so, thats done. Now, i have to get the hub off by the top control arm release, and the long bottom shock stud/bolt removal. (and all the ebrake mumbo jumbo) hopefully there are no gotchas. then, back to CT tomorrow hopefully where they will pull off the part that holes the wheels studs and presses into the bearing, and pull the bearing out of the hub.
I just got the bearing! NOW THATS A BEARIING!! wow, its huge!
Mk
still howling!
Originally Posted by Bill Ball
Mark:
I can come by Friday afternoon/evening or Saturday, if you are still huffing and puffing on this. These things often require 500 ft lbs to break lose. I have 3/4 inch tools. I understand you can replace the bearing yourself, but I have not done it. I just removed the hub carrier and took it to the shop and let them do it. You like destroying things, so we could give that a go. Order the new bearing in the meantime.
I can come by Friday afternoon/evening or Saturday, if you are still huffing and puffing on this. These things often require 500 ft lbs to break lose. I have 3/4 inch tools. I understand you can replace the bearing yourself, but I have not done it. I just removed the hub carrier and took it to the shop and let them do it. You like destroying things, so we could give that a go. Order the new bearing in the meantime.
08-17-2005, 03:50 PM
#43
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Yes that big bearing is a dual angular contact type with two sets of ball bearings in a common outer race with a split inner race. The inner races bottom out on each other so there is no preloading. It is possible to remove the bearing with the wheel carrier/upright still bolted to the car by using a large slidehammer to pull the old bearing and a length of threaded rod to pull the new bearing into place far enough that the stub axle and nut can be used to fully seat the bearing. freezing the bearing heating the alloy carrier facilitates installation as do air tools to pull the bearing into place.
08-17-2005, 03:54 PM
#44
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I wondered why the split, but didnt want to ask. thanks.
however the below technique requries having to pull the CV joint of the trans. wonder if those 8 bolts on the CV are easier to remove than removing the upper control arm and lower shock bolt?
Mk
however the below technique requries having to pull the CV joint of the trans. wonder if those 8 bolts on the CV are easier to remove than removing the upper control arm and lower shock bolt?
Mk
Originally Posted by Jim bailey - 928 International
Yes that big bearing is a dual angular contact type with two sets of ball bearings in a common outer race with a split inner race. The inner races bottom out on each other so there is no preloading. It is possible to remove the bearing with the wheel carrier/upright still bolted to the car by using a large slidehammer to pull the old bearing and a length of threaded rod to pull the new bearing into place far enough that the stub axle and nut can be used to fully seat the bearing. freezing the bearing heating the alloy carrier facilitates installation as do air tools to pull the bearing into place.
08-17-2005, 05:38 PM
#45
"wonder if those 8 bolts on the CV are easier to remove than removing the upper control arm and lower shock bolt? "
IMO, yeah. That big long bolt going through the shock and control arm is a pita to get out(just pulled mine today, as i'm currently doing my rear shocks).
IMO, yeah. That big long bolt going through the shock and control arm is a pita to get out(just pulled mine today, as i'm currently doing my rear shocks).