Notices
928 Forum 1978-1995
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: 928 Specialists

Holbert car problem. Could be big. Advice regarding rear wheel bearing or CV joints

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 08-15-2005, 01:18 PM
  #16  
mark kibort
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
mark kibort's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: saratoga, ca
Posts: 29,952
Received 165 Likes on 64 Posts
Default

2:33.2 with the bad bearings?? thats fast. kind of scarry to think of the rear wheel lock up if they got worse!!! you pressed them out yourself with a press and a torch??

i think joe did right around this in the more powerful Ron GT racer and i was about a second behind that with my 2-3 second slower crummy hoosiers. didnt really know how bad they were until i waisted two more races at laguna wondering if my engine was having issues. (denial !!) turned out to be mostly tires and a little engine (flappy was disconnected). So, crummy hoosiers cost me a better time at a HUGE trip and effort to Road america, and two chances to get in the record books with SCCA at laguna. (just running within a second of my best time with the old hooseirs was not possible, over 3 races!) NEVER AGAIN! Now, its Speed World Challenge used Toyos from now on. good to the cords!!

WE have to have a rematch. I hope the east coasters are planning to come out West this next season!! ITS ONLY FAIR!!

Good luck for the remainder of this season!

MK



Originally Posted by Jean-Louis
Mark, I had the same problem two weeks ago on the Euro. Both rear bearings were dead (dry and some play on the driver side). You need a press and a torch to remove and assemble the bearings. Took me 30mn for the bearings assembly. Did a 2:33.2 at RA with those bearings..........
Jean-Louis
91GT, 87S4, 84 Euro S (GT2s)
Old 08-15-2005, 01:23 PM
  #17  
mark kibort
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
mark kibort's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: saratoga, ca
Posts: 29,952
Received 165 Likes on 64 Posts
Default

so, i wiggle the wheel and it is absolutely tight as a drum. you can kind of hear it faintly when you spin the wheel as fast as you can by hand, but no comparison to when the wheels are spun up with the engine to 100mph.

hard to imagine the CV joints making that kind of noise,as they are not really spinning, its just the ***** rotating to keep motion at the different angles. dont really fully understand the design, but intuitively, it doesnt seem like those ***** are at any kind of real speed, especially if the wheel , shaft and diff are parallel inline, right?

going to attack the wheel bearing

MK


Originally Posted by SharkSkin
In my case, there was grit in the joint which caused abnormal wear and the wear surfaces were spalled. So, the rough wear surfaces caused the growling. Usually when these things wear, they do so over an extended time period and they stay smooth. So the first symptom is excessive play, which manifests as clicking. Any sort of CV, bearing, etc. can howl or growl if there are rough surfaces in contact with one another.
Old 08-15-2005, 01:43 PM
  #18  
SharkSkin
Rennlist Member
 
SharkSkin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Boulder Creek, CA
Posts: 12,620
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by mark kibort
so, i wiggle the wheel and it is absolutely tight as a drum. you can kind of hear it faintly when you spin the wheel as fast as you can by hand, but no comparison to when the wheels are spun up with the engine to 100mph.

hard to imagine the CV joints making that kind of noise,as they are not really spinning, its just the ***** rotating to keep motion at the different angles. dont really fully understand the design, but intuitively, it doesnt seem like those ***** are at any kind of real speed, especially if the wheel , shaft and diff are parallel inline, right?

going to attack the wheel bearing

MK
CV joints are intended to run at somewhat of an angle, and under these conditions the ***** are constantly moving back and forth in the races, spreading the wear over a small area perhaps 10-15mm along the race. If the halfshafts are straight, then the ***** are not moving around much, not exposing new surfaces to the contact points... so the wear is concentrated in a much smaller area. I still think it's worth checking for play, but if there is any significant play it will likely be in one specific position, with the halfshaft at one specific point along it's lateral range of motion. You might find abnormal play in one position, but 1 or 2 mm to either side it feels fine... Conversely, a quick check may indicate all is well if you don't happen to check it in its position of maximum wear.

I still think it's worth checking, with the car on ramps and suspension in normal operating position... even though the symptoms tend to point to the bearing. You said you have a short timeframe, so IMHO it is important to inspect everything that COULD be a problem so you have time to address whatever you find.
Old 08-15-2005, 01:53 PM
  #19  
Adam C
Racer
 
Adam C's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Dana Point, CA
Posts: 388
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

It's a bearing, trust me. I did my passenger rear in a little over a day. No machine shops here - I just used my oven and heated and pounded. It's an easy but tedious job - you can do it. By bearing was trashed, BTW.
Old 08-15-2005, 07:49 PM
  #20  
mark kibort
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
mark kibort's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: saratoga, ca
Posts: 29,952
Received 165 Likes on 64 Posts
Default

great words of encouragement. ill try it.

tell me, how did you pound the thing out

i may have access to a shop with a press. sure would make things a lot easier it sounds.

any alignment bolts to remove, or just the shock at the bottom and the upper link remove on the inside and the hub pulls off??

whats that big nut tightened too (32mm) was it 260ftlbs? wait, wasnt that the crank bolt? do i hear 600ftlbs???? can i jump up and down on an 18" breaker bar?

maybe i can use my NOS system with regulator and use my air impact driver. (good for quick removal of bolts, before the gun freezes!)

MK

Originally Posted by Adam C
It's a bearing, trust me. I did my passenger rear in a little over a day. No machine shops here - I just used my oven and heated and pounded. It's an easy but tedious job - you can do it. By bearing was trashed, BTW.
Old 08-15-2005, 07:51 PM
  #21  
mark kibort
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
mark kibort's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: saratoga, ca
Posts: 29,952
Received 165 Likes on 64 Posts
Default

can you remove the nut with the wheel and tire attached? (i have a big hole in the kenisis that will fit a big socket) this seems like it could be easier to hold the wheel against the torque this way. (ie e-brake, in gear and piece of wood in front of the tire)

mk
Old 08-15-2005, 07:51 PM
  #22  
m21sniper
Banned
 
m21sniper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Philly
Posts: 2,066
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

The big bolt is torqued to 322ft-lbs IIRC.

You'll need a 3/4" torque wrench to re-torque it properly.
Old 08-15-2005, 07:59 PM
  #23  
Jim bailey - 928 International
Addict
Rennlist Member

Rennlist
Site Sponsor

 
Jim bailey - 928 International's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Anaheim California
Posts: 11,542
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

or simply have me stand on the end of a 12 in breaker bar...
Old 08-15-2005, 08:08 PM
  #24  
mark kibort
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
mark kibort's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: saratoga, ca
Posts: 29,952
Received 165 Likes on 64 Posts
Default

I think Jim rents himself out for less than the torque wrench cost. question is, does he charge more for having to jump off a step stool to break the darn thing free? ( i bet its more than 400ftlbs to break it free, dont you think?)
Old 08-15-2005, 08:20 PM
  #25  
Tony
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
 
Tony's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 14,676
Received 584 Likes on 305 Posts
Default

I broke it free with three fingers


Your the physics man Mark...this was easy!
Old 08-15-2005, 08:23 PM
  #26  
Jim bailey - 928 International
Addict
Rennlist Member

Rennlist
Site Sponsor

 
Jim bailey - 928 International's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Anaheim California
Posts: 11,542
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

Mark that is what the 24 inch bar is used for actually several have used the floor jack method and literally start jacking up that axle with a breaker bar with the jack lifting on the end.
Old 08-15-2005, 08:35 PM
  #27  
mark kibort
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
mark kibort's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: saratoga, ca
Posts: 29,952
Received 165 Likes on 64 Posts
Default

wow. i forgot thats what the nut looks like without the rotors attached. (didnt know you could fit a box end on it) so, what costs more 32mm box, or 32mm 1/2 socket. Kind of want to try NOS again!

an ole box end and a jack. You guys got this stuff down.

Hey, since i know my corner weights of 661lbs on each of my rear corners, can i just put the jack on at the .5 foot mark and get 330ftlbs?
mk
Old 08-15-2005, 08:38 PM
  #28  
Tony
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
 
Tony's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 14,676
Received 584 Likes on 305 Posts
Default

Notice the tag still attached to my wrench Mark
Keep the receipt.

I kept my wrench in the end anyway.

Old 08-15-2005, 08:38 PM
  #29  
m21sniper
Banned
 
m21sniper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Philly
Posts: 2,066
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

A good 1/2" impact gun will break the bolt loose easily, but you're gonna need a 3/4" torque wrench to put it all back together regardless. Most mechanics don't lend those out(the few that actually own one that is) because they cost so much friggin money.

I think snap-on gets like $3000+ for a 3/4" drive torque wrench.
Old 08-16-2005, 01:02 AM
  #30  
mark kibort
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
mark kibort's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: saratoga, ca
Posts: 29,952
Received 165 Likes on 64 Posts
Default

Tried the breaker bar with the 32mm socket. didnt budge. then, used the jack to jack up the 18" breaker bar 1/2" type. all it did was bend like a pole vault pole. (actually not that much , but you get the idea) Then, i pullled out NOS and regulator. set pressure to 200 psi and used my impact gun. sounded like the ones at the porsche shop. nothing. turned the pressure up to 250 to 275 (lines are only rated to 200psi) and still, no budge. i have a feeling that this is going to break the axle shaft when it comes loose.

I guess ill have to go to the shop and see if they can break it loose with all the pro tools.

MK


Quick Reply: Holbert car problem. Could be big. Advice regarding rear wheel bearing or CV joints



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 05:51 PM.