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If the transmission pump were to suck air due to a low fluid level, is there anything special that needs to be done after filling to the correct level?
No.
The pump should draw fluid within seconds, if not damaged.
Although the pumps are very robust, I'd assume if one were to run it without fluid for extended periods of time, the pump could be damaged from lack of lubrication
No.
The pump should draw fluid within seconds, if not damaged.
Although the pumps are very robust, I'd assume if one were to run it without fluid for extended periods of time, the pump could be damaged from lack of lubrication
If the automatic is still not engaging after all the advice here, it's time to drain the ATF and check the condition of the fluid. It should be very clean with no burnt smell. Drop the pan and check the inside, same here it should be very clean after the recent ATF change.
Finally check the filter. See if the screws are tight. Remove the screws and the filter. Take a look if the two round cork seals are in place.
Take pictures and upload them here.
Getting a hose to the reservoir with the car sitting on level ground can be done but it's a chore. There's nothing to hang the hose on and it's tough to see either the level or how fast fluid can go in without spilling. I like using the factory fill port because of that. You can connect a hose there from a hand pump, with no risk of overflowing the reservoir and no need to figure out a way to secure the hose end in the reservoir mouth while you pump.
The level you show in the reservoir is still quite low. You can use a mirror and light to see the level in the front of the reservoir to confirm, but the full-hot mark on the front is just a about the same as the seam split at the top. Use that seam as a guide when looking from the rear.
Getting a hose to the reservoir with the car sitting on level ground can be done but it's a chore. There's nothing to hang the hose on and it's tough to see either the level or how fast fluid can go in without spilling. I like using the factory fill port because of that. You can connect a hose there from a hand pump, with no risk of overflowing the reservoir and no need to figure out a way to secure the hose end in the reservoir mouth while you pump.
The level you show in the reservoir is still quite low. You can use a mirror and light to see the level in the front of the reservoir to confirm, but the full-hot mark on the front is just a about the same as the seam split at the top. Use that seam as a guide when looking from the rear.
I am still a bit puzzled about how the OP assessed the level. The pics of the level gauge on the reservoir are obviously taken from in front looking backwards and the car is obviously jacked up but the pics also show the car jacked up at the rear but on its wheels at the front. Now if the pics were taken at that attitude then the rear side will show a false low and the front of the reservoir will show a false high. As to how low the level has to be before the pump cannot lift the fluid any more I know not.
As GB says in his post if there was a major failure going on there would be pre-emptive signs of failure- not a sudden total failure to pick up drive. If the pump had failed the level would not drop upon start up as we assume it does so logic suggests the pump is taking suction at start up but then for whatever reason, it presumably loses such. Perhaps the OP can advise whether he used any rags to clean the sump pan - a rag left in the pan might explain something like this but then if so, why did it run for a while with no issues?
The actual "fluid level" is distributed over the whole transmission sump. I think the fluid in the reservoir will indicate lower when the rear of the car is raised. The 'reservoir' is as much an indicating vessel as anything else in this application. Were it not for the rather harsh environment there (exhaust heat, debris, etc.) a small sight glass would do the job at least as well. The volume of fluid in the little reservoir itself is insignificant really.
The reservoir sits at the rear of the sump, connected by a steel tube that's brazed into the bottom level rear center of the sump, such that level in the sump is the same as the level in the reservoir. With the rear of the car raised, the front of the reservoir will show -slightly- higher than the rear of the same reservoir, but still will be display lower than actual sump level were the car on level ground.
It's imperative to check the fluid with the car level, either on a level surface or raised evenly.
I changed ATF 100 miles ago because I have my car since 7 years and 15000 miles. I did it because I don’t know when the ATF has been changed before.
To change ATF, we have followed the WSM step by step. The pan has been cleaned. Oil sump gasket and filter have been changed. New oil Mobil ATF-220 DEXRON 2D.
I also changed oil in differential 9 months ago by Motul fluid Motyl Gear 75W90.
And what about the starter lockout and reverse switch ?
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