Automatic transmission not engage
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Automatic transmission not engage
Hi all, and happy new year !!
Today I moved my GTS ‘95 without any problem. Few minutes later, my transmission will not engage the car when the shifter is put into any of the forward and reverse gear.
No reverse light when the front lights are off.
Reverse light when the front lights are on.
The cable between shifter and AT is ok.
I added 600 ml of ATF fluide DEXRON IID. At cold the level is on the MIN 20 C in the ATF tank, idle engine and shift on Neutral.
Thanks a lot for your help 😉
Fabien, 928 GTS 1995, New Caledonia (South Pacific)
Today I moved my GTS ‘95 without any problem. Few minutes later, my transmission will not engage the car when the shifter is put into any of the forward and reverse gear.
No reverse light when the front lights are off.
Reverse light when the front lights are on.
The cable between shifter and AT is ok.
I added 600 ml of ATF fluide DEXRON IID. At cold the level is on the MIN 20 C in the ATF tank, idle engine and shift on Neutral.
Thanks a lot for your help 😉
Fabien, 928 GTS 1995, New Caledonia (South Pacific)
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cre8iveskill (07-10-2021)
#2
Rennlist Member
The reverse light should function anytime reverse is engaged irrespective of the lights being on or off.
As to your problem with the drive I have no clue as to what the problem might be given the info you have provided - first impression it sounds rather worrisome- doubtless you will get some more meaningful insights once the chaps in the States wake up. Nothing wrong with Dexron 2D that I am aware of- did you top up because of "the problem" or did you top up and then experienced the problem?
The level in the reservoir is critical based on the temperature and the engine running. When the engine is switched off ATF runs into the sump and fills it. Once the motor is running oil is pumped out of the sump and then you see a level- the level changes with the temperature of the ATF- as it gets hotter the level rises due to thermal expansion. What you have written suggests you understand this. Kindly confirm that when the motor is switched off the reservoir indicates it is "fully flooded" and that when the motor is running the level drops to the 20C mark.
As to your problem with the drive I have no clue as to what the problem might be given the info you have provided - first impression it sounds rather worrisome- doubtless you will get some more meaningful insights once the chaps in the States wake up. Nothing wrong with Dexron 2D that I am aware of- did you top up because of "the problem" or did you top up and then experienced the problem?
The level in the reservoir is critical based on the temperature and the engine running. When the engine is switched off ATF runs into the sump and fills it. Once the motor is running oil is pumped out of the sump and then you see a level- the level changes with the temperature of the ATF- as it gets hotter the level rises due to thermal expansion. What you have written suggests you understand this. Kindly confirm that when the motor is switched off the reservoir indicates it is "fully flooded" and that when the motor is running the level drops to the 20C mark.
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cre8iveskill (07-10-2021)
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cre8iveskill (07-10-2021)
#4
Racer
Thread Starter
I confirm that when the motor is switched off the reservoir indicates it is "fully flooded" and that when the motor is running the level drops to the 20C mark.
I changed ATF fluid one month ago with Mobil ATF-220 DEXRON 2D. No problem since one month.
On yesterday I drived the car on few meters in R and D, no problem until I shifted to R again to finish to move on my parking. At this time any gear were engaged...
I changed ATF fluid one month ago with Mobil ATF-220 DEXRON 2D. No problem since one month.
On yesterday I drived the car on few meters in R and D, no problem until I shifted to R again to finish to move on my parking. At this time any gear were engaged...
Last edited by Fabien92; 01-01-2021 at 08:21 AM.
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
#6
Rennlist Member
So, we have established that the drive shaft has not sheared, the unit is picking up fluid OK and there is nothing to suggest that the problem is caused by lack of ATF. Total drive has been lost so my intuition says the next level of problem may be an issue with the valve body functionality and if that is the case then you need someone with more expertise on the auto box internals than me to help guide you further
Just for purposes of completeness when you changed the ATF did you change the oil filter?
Just for purposes of completeness when you changed the ATF did you change the oil filter?
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
By the way. The day before, a friend drived my car in the city (low MPH) for 20 minutes and with shifter on 2 for 300 meters. I hope he didn’t overload the transmission.
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#8
Team Owner
jack up the rear on jack stands,
get your helper to sit in the car,
and you go look at the shifter cable attachment while the helper moves the shifter full travel ,
do the wheels lock in park, are they free when out of park?,
SET the E Brake and use the foot brake all the time for these next tests
Start engine and cycle through gears at idle , any changes?
NOTE always go to Neutral and wait for a few seconds before selecting D 3 2 or R or going into P
This will prevent the selector being placed into park and having the wheels still spinning
please report what you see.
get your helper to sit in the car,
and you go look at the shifter cable attachment while the helper moves the shifter full travel ,
do the wheels lock in park, are they free when out of park?,
SET the E Brake and use the foot brake all the time for these next tests
Start engine and cycle through gears at idle , any changes?
NOTE always go to Neutral and wait for a few seconds before selecting D 3 2 or R or going into P
This will prevent the selector being placed into park and having the wheels still spinning
please report what you see.
#9
Rennlist Member
These transmissions are nigh on idiot proof. Unless he was doing close to 100 mph in second for a long time he would not have done any damage the transmission
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Fabien92 (01-01-2021)
#10
Rennlist Member
If you have a transmission pressure gauge that might give you some clues in addition to the above suggestions.
On the reverse lights situation, there's a 2 pin plug just under the ignition barrel if that’s fallen out it will cause the symptoms you’re seeing. Have you had the dash pod off recently, maybe it got knocked?
On the reverse lights situation, there's a 2 pin plug just under the ignition barrel if that’s fallen out it will cause the symptoms you’re seeing. Have you had the dash pod off recently, maybe it got knocked?
Last edited by gazfish; 01-01-2021 at 01:36 PM.
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Fabien92 (01-01-2021)
#11
Rennlist Member
Stupid question - are the CV joints attached to the differential?
Last edited by Kevin in Atlanta; 01-01-2021 at 12:03 PM.
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Fred111 (10-21-2021)
#13
Racer
Thread Starter
#14
Racer
Thread Starter
#15
Racer
Thread Starter
The wheels are locked in park, free when out of park.
This is my fluid level at cold, idle engine, neutral.
With the car jacked, the wheels spin slowly and always in the same direction (forward) in all shifter positions R N D 3 2 when I press the throttle
I looked at the shifter cable attachment while the helper moves the shifter full travel. All positions are good. The switch on the transmission moves.
This is my fluid level at cold, idle engine, neutral.
With the car jacked, the wheels spin slowly and always in the same direction (forward) in all shifter positions R N D 3 2 when I press the throttle
I looked at the shifter cable attachment while the helper moves the shifter full travel. All positions are good. The switch on the transmission moves.
Last edited by Fabien92; 01-01-2021 at 08:30 PM.