Fabien92

I agree with you Fred. But I try to remember all events to find any correlation.

Now, I have to see how to save time, my tranny, and money.

What to do ?

- Check PSD ? We have seen that the link between tranny and differential is good since park pawl locks the wheels (see last Greg's post).
- Check TC by opening drain plug just after the engine is stopped ?
- Check valve body again ?

- Change TC (réf. 722 250 09 02) ? Any good shop to buy it at the best price ?

All ideas are welcome !!!
Thank you again for you very good support, you're the best !

GregBBRD

Let's look at it another way....if it's not the converter, what else can it possibly be?

The torque tube/torque tube shaft is apparently good.
The valve body has been rebuilt.
The axles are apparently good.
The transmission has been rebuilt.
The car will not roll in park, which indicates the differential/ring and pinion are good.

System pressure is???

Fabien92

Good question Greg ...

We can take working pressure.
Before to remove the transmission we had 8 bars instead of 16 bars. The front pump has been changed when we rebuilt the transmission.

Kevin in Atlanta

Has anybody inspected the drive shaft splines?

Fabien92

Hi Kevin,

All drive shafts splines are good. We have checked them when we have rebuilt the transmission. And no noise.

Schocki

As I mentioned before check the pressure again after the rebuilt. This was the only fault that was never positively corrected AFAIR.

Fabien92

We wil do it as soon as possible. We have a pressure tester with up to 25 bars pressure range.
Regarding WSM, we have to measure a pressure of 15.8 bars +/- 1.

Lizard928

One thing that I have not seen having been done is to do an aircheck on the transmission.
This is a common procedure for other transmissions to ensure that a seal didn't get damaged on install (it happens to the best people every now and then).
I also see from the pictures that the pressure modulator was not removed for overhaul. Remove it and check the plunger that typically stays inside the transmission.
When you had the converter out, did you happen to take a picture of the inside with all the fluid removed. I see the splines for the fixed shaft are ok. But is there any spline damage in the turbine portion?
I also really think that you have an issue with the valve body and that the valve body should be swapped to a known good unit (after completing an air check and ensuring that you don't have any major seal leaks.

Fabien92

Hi Lizard,

We have changed all seals and o-rings in the transmission.

Are you sure about the pressure modulator ? If I remember, the transmission housing was empty of all parts. See picture.

We have not checked the splines in the turbine portion .. no picture inside TC. Oups ...

Schocki

Yep, get this checked 1st. No sufficient pressure, no propulsion.

Fabien92

About working pressure. Where is it taken ? At the output of TC or at the output of valve body ?

gazfish

Ports are next to the modulator, there’s a working pressure and modulator pressure port. I thought you checked these before tearing into it?

Fabien92

I agree. Working pressure port is number C in the WSM.

But where the working pressure is it sampled in the ATF flow via this port ? I mean, if it’s just at the output of the TC, we can have a failed TC or front pump, and a good valve body.

About working pressure itself. The car can it drive with only 8 bars ?

Schocki

I thought you guys have checked it before???

Schocki

Honestly, I don't know if the car would drive with only 50 % of working pressure available. But there is a reason for 16 bars IMHO.

I don't think you would like to drive your car with 50 % fuel or oil pressure present either. Bottom line: check the pressure and then we'll know more.