Bowden cable adjustment and likely vacuum leaks (ones you know already, and ones you DONT back at the trans modulator..)are going to make debugging trans shifting -super- frustrating.

Fix the leaks, adjust the cable...then try again.

 

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...k-or-so-2.html

 

Cheers guys.
Great find Ken - I didn't find that thread when I googled for 928 shift points. I need to sharpen up on my search skills.
If I am reading Bill Ball's post correctly I am in range, but at the lower end. Might be adjustment required or as Speedtoys points out, and/or chasing vacuum leaks.

The car is running fine at the moment so no urgency, will add it in to the intake refresh job. Pondering a parts list from Roger at this very moment......

Thanks
Richard

 

Re-reading that earlier thread, I remember some bench discussion on limiting upshift RPM's/load for 1->2 upshifts, mostly to preserve the gearbox. I was researching for my 1989 US car, but IIRC the updated relay applies to '89+ S4 cars, with the 2.54 final drive. It works with EZK to retard timing as it shifts, and relaxes the downshift solenoid to support the lower RPM shift points. Full-throttle first-gear launches bring revs up in a bigger hurry than the 2.20 final drive cars, so the shift point and load are reduced some. I've done only a couple hard first launches in 20-plus years of driving it, and I was watching the freeway-speed traffic I was merging into rather than the tach. The 1->2 shift was brutal even with all the protection active. I drive the car pretty conservatively, and have the TV cable set a turn or two loose for 'touring'. In the standard adjustment, the transmission was a little too busy in Los Angeles traffic. The engine had plenty of low-end torque for the too-typical slow-and-go driving, without needing all the extra shifting. Now in the high desert of central Oregon, altitude affects available engine torque a bit. I took back about half a turn of cable adjustment, and might try another half at some point. Know that you can completely change the character of the car with some adjustment on that cable. From lead-butt dog to active sports driver is just a few turns away.

Ken -- Is there consideration for the '89+ upshift timing retard in your mapping?

 

Yes. (Note the kickdown relay only controls the shift point rpm.)

87-91 the EZK retards during shifts using its shift sensor input. Both upshift and downshift are controlled (downshift retard is very brief).

The GTS EZK is mapped by rpm. I incorporated the GTS code and map into all automatic versions of the chip.

 

A bit of super-geek trivia - I only found one factory error in the the EZK code. The same error is in all versions of the EZK with diagnostic (including SharkTuner files).

Someone made a typo in a function which clears the battery backed RAM after a battery disconnect reset. This error means position 00 never gets cleared. This isn't a problem for the factory code which mostly uses only the top 128 bytes of the 256 bytes available for long term diagnostic stuff. It drove me nuts though as I used every byte for the chip. (I couldn't figure out why one rpm on one cylinder kept getting a weird knock count.)

 

Nerd alert!!!

 

So have you been able to confirm that with the corrected code the cylinder in question gets no more knock counts than the others?

 

Yes. (The error was fixed in V2.0x)

That cell is for #1 at ~6300 rpm. Surprisingly only #8 on my S4 consistently records knocks up there even with extra advance over stock. (Rpm is referenced in reverse order.)

 

I can never take my car to work again or drive to a gathering....(just kidding)! Thank you for fixing it!

 

I finally got around to swapping out the eprom with the EZK-s . I had some issues with my shark tuned daughter board (unfortunately I tried to remove just the emprom and managed to break all the pins). Fortunately, after contacting Colin I learned that the entire daughter board has to be removed and it was a snap. I popped in the new EZK-s and went off to dial in the calibration.

I did about 50 km going on and off highway entery/exit ramp****ting red line many times and then slowing to 2,000 rpm. I don't have the knock sensor wired in so I can't speak to how often it was knocking but after about 30 minutes there is a very noticeable improvement in the motor's power.There is a much more immediate throttle response and I was breaking traction when shifting from 3rd to 4th! I also now have a nice sounding exhaust note snarl despite having replaced my rusted out RMB with the stock unit. The car is now more twitchy, for lack of a better word.

All I can say at this point is WOW! What an improvement! Many thanks Ken!


All the best,

Joe

 

"I don't have the knock sensor wired in "

So you have a wildly advanced timing curve with no knock protection then...right?

Not sure you wanna do that..

 

I think Joe would like to say that he did not wired the led that shows when the chip detect knock. My understanding is that the chip is supposed to detect if the knock sensor are not operatives...

looking forward going back to the us to bring one back!

raphael

 

Mine is working its way through the US Postal Service....currently in San Francisco....

 

What I meant was the led annunciation for knock detection isn't wired in.