A Puzzle for the Best 928 Specialist out there
#16
Yes. Unfortunately, it was repainted. The RR hatch and the engine grounds are the only grounds that I have not cleaned. There are no grounds in the V area of the engine. PO must have moved them. I continuity tested the grounds from the ECU's and they were good. Should I go ahead with the relay test or clean those grounds or fine the 2 missing grounds first?
#18
there should be 2 brown ground wires for the fuel injection bolted to the top of the passenger side cam tower do you see these?
one will be harder to see as its colocated with the EGR valve.
NOTE if these wires are not on the cam tower then they are usually attached to right rear Of the V under the fuel pressure regulator.
The main engine ground from block to chassis is NOT what I am asking about
NOTE please remove the intake tubes and post pictures of the right side cam tower
one will be harder to see as its colocated with the EGR valve.
NOTE if these wires are not on the cam tower then they are usually attached to right rear Of the V under the fuel pressure regulator.
The main engine ground from block to chassis is NOT what I am asking about
NOTE please remove the intake tubes and post pictures of the right side cam tower
#19
Very cute and dedicated kid! My kids would have done the same for about 30 minutes, maybe 45, then they would be “Out” if they couldn’t actually drive the car!
Research the Ignition Switch as it relates to the LH relay, or wait for others to chime in. I’ve read about people wiggling it while turning the key or pushing it in to try to see if it’s bad, but really I don’t know if any of that is realistic beyond just replacing it with a top quality new one, OEM.
Research the Ignition Switch as it relates to the LH relay, or wait for others to chime in. I’ve read about people wiggling it while turning the key or pushing it in to try to see if it’s bad, but really I don’t know if any of that is realistic beyond just replacing it with a top quality new one, OEM.
#25
The small ground terminals are in bad shape. One fell off while I was cleaning it. Looks like I will be replacing those tonight. I will let you guys know in the a.m. how things are going. Thanks for your replies.
#26
Only a month? I worked on my first 928 (Schwartz car '84 Euro) for 4 years before I was able to drive it. This was before I knew about Rennlist and before I met Roger@928sRus. I drove it twice before I discovered oil bubbling out of a head bolt. That's when I got the Stepson
#27
Soontobered, you have a lot of patience. Well, I have been cleaning grounds for about 5 hours. I didnt know these terminals were supposed to be a nice copper color. The first time around I cleaned the white and black off of them. When I saw copper, I stopped because I thought they were merely plated. Thanks to Mrmerlin, this time I realized they weren't supposed to be gray 😲. Anyway, I'm in the process of figuring out what I did with the mounting plates for the CE panel. Will update when I find them.
#28
Thanks Kenpro. My wife at the time did not have the same patience. The second 928 pissed her off, and the third one sent her packing. She asked me and I told her that I liked the cars better than I liked her. I am now married to a wonderful woman who likes me, likes the cars, and likes my 928 friends. Win-Win
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85euro928 (07-01-2020)
#30
OK.
Even though I'm not arrogant enough to think I'm the best specialist out there......I'm generally fairly adequate and more importantly, willing to play along......as long as we can be more specific about certain things.
Let's start with the basics and figure out what you have and what you do not have....instead of randomly poking into the dark.
'When you say you can jump the LH relay and the car starts and runs, I'm assuming that you are jumping "30" to "87", for this to occur. Please remove the LH relay, look at the numbers on the backside, make a jumper wire, connect "30" and "87" (leave the relay out) and confirm that this is the case.
Next step...Until you tell me different, I'm going to assume that you have a 12 volt test light. Hook the alligator end to your battery positive and poke the "86" wire, with the pointy end. This is the ground to the relay. You should get a bright light....all the time...key on, key off.
Now, remove your jumper and hook the alligator end of the test light to battery ground and poke the '85 wire, with the point end. Crank the car. You should get a bright light.
Report back with results.
Even though I'm not arrogant enough to think I'm the best specialist out there......I'm generally fairly adequate and more importantly, willing to play along......as long as we can be more specific about certain things.
Let's start with the basics and figure out what you have and what you do not have....instead of randomly poking into the dark.
'When you say you can jump the LH relay and the car starts and runs, I'm assuming that you are jumping "30" to "87", for this to occur. Please remove the LH relay, look at the numbers on the backside, make a jumper wire, connect "30" and "87" (leave the relay out) and confirm that this is the case.
Next step...Until you tell me different, I'm going to assume that you have a 12 volt test light. Hook the alligator end to your battery positive and poke the "86" wire, with the pointy end. This is the ground to the relay. You should get a bright light....all the time...key on, key off.
Now, remove your jumper and hook the alligator end of the test light to battery ground and poke the '85 wire, with the point end. Crank the car. You should get a bright light.
Report back with results.