Greg, I noticed the PO had a piece of copper behind one of the mounting screws, so I added one to the other side and put a fresh one on the left side and I got this. I hope this helps. I'm just trying to give you as much info as I can.

 

Don’t want to disrupt the conversation, just following the saga. When you say Mounting Screws, are you referring to the two bolts securing the brown ground wires, above the panel? Thx

 

Excellent.

My mistake. Sorry. Ignore above. Start here.
Yes, there should be power at "86", like in your picture. You should also have power to "30', with your test light hooked up like in the picture above.
If you hook "30" to "87", with a jumper wire, that is the same as you forcing the relay shut with your razor blade....the car should run, the same as when you plug in the relay and shut the contacts.

What is apparently missing is the ground signal from the LH control unit, to close the relay. This comes from "85".
Hook your test light to the positive red wires at the top of the relay board. Poke the pointy end into "85". Crank the car. You should get a light, if "85" is grounding.

 

I did not get a light at 85 (top slot of LH relay) when cranking with clip hooked on red wires above CE panel.

 

This thread is glorious.
Keep going, man.

 

OK. No ground signal from LH. Relay will not close, allowing power to flow from 30 to 87.

 

That is correct, sir.

 

From where I'm sitting Ken, you're doing an amazing job. I can barely put gas in my car without help. In fact, at one point I literally could not (Totally serious). If you decide you want some laughs (or tears), take a look at my long threads about me taking far too long to do the simplest things, and breaking **** badly.

Keep up the good work, and we'll see you at Frenzy!

 

What should I do now that we know the LH relay is not grounded?

 

The next thing to do is to check all the power and grounds at the LH control unit to find out if the issue is a power supply issue, a ground issue, or a fault in the control unit.
I think you are going to want a volt/ohm meter to do this.

You will need to remove the black cover on the LH control unit plug, so you can "back probe" the appropriate wires.

I'll load a diagram of the "pin outs"....unless someone has one really handy and wants to post it.

 

I think the wires pop out of the plug very easily so you want to be careful there. Getting them back in is like herding cats. Sorry if I'm thinking of another plug.

 

Thanks Greg. I have the pinouts, I'm just not sure how to get to the back of the wires. I took out the screws and removed the back cover, just couldn't reach/see the back of the wires. I didnt want to force anything because I was afraid of breaking something. I did a quick online search of how to get into the harness, but couldn't find anything.

 

I had to run an errand with a friend, I will post a picture of where I'm at when I get back.

 

Just recently returned from an intervention. My friend pulled me away from the 928 for a 7 hour round trip for him to purchase a 1970 Cougar. On the trip, I had time to think about priorities...getting that 928 started.
Been thinking about where you have been leading me Greg. While I was struggling with the LH harness, I shined my light into the LH relay slot and noticed the (87) slot wasn't as shiny as the other slots. I decided to quickly take a look at the wires behind the CE panel going to the LH relay. There was a smaller red wire (86, I believe) than all the other red wires attached to the top of the panel and it seemed looser than the others.
​​​I hope I'm not getting side tracked, just trying to provide all relevant info I can. Pictures will be posted below. And if it will let me upload a two second clip of the looseness.

 

No shiny in 87 and bent 86