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I pulled a third vacuum to 25 and it also held so I stuck the other end of the hose into 3 gallons of fresh Dexcool and Distilled water in a 50/50 mix and filled the cooling system. Pulled another vacuum to about 15 and it took a little more.
Then reassembled everything.
It's ready for a trial start, but I haven't done that yet as don't want to stink up the garage with company arriving for the weekend. Probably Monday afternoon when they depart. I also swapped my windshield washer / intercooler fluid to a green version so it's easier to tell if I have a coolant leak (orange) or intercooler (green).
And here's a shot of the completed Verus AOS install too.
Just tested it. No leaks so far, but haven't really put it through full paces yet.
Started it up and looked for leaks while sitting in the garage and didn't see any.
Drove it around the neighborhood in 1sf and 2nd gear - looked for leaks and didn't see any.
Took it out onto the rural highway in front of the neighborhood and did some longer and stronger pulls.
Cruising along AFR numbers are in the mid 13s to 14s. Under full boost they richen into the mid 12s and at idle closer to 17.
Returned and still don't see any coolant leaks.
I'm also not seeing or feeling the continuous stream of exhaust gas out the new AOS atmosphere vent line under the car and also no oil droplets on it. I'm hoping the AOS it's working properly and at some point, may pull the hose that drains from the AOS back to the oil pan to make sure it has some oil residue in it, which means it's being effective.
When I got back, I checked the timing as the engine didn't seem completely smooth at it had dropped to 20 degrees BTDC at idle with all the vacuum lines connected. I moved it up into the 25-28 range, but without a helper, can't check it at 3,000 rpm so will try that later today. Once I adjusted the timing, I had to adjust the idle screw a little to lower the rpm.
One question I have is with the cylinder miss I had before,, would that effect the timing setting if that was now corrected or is correct timing, correct timing and that's unrelated. I'm sure it would effect my idle RPM as would the timing change I made but still don't know if I'm firing on all 8. Going to drive it a bit and then pull the 5-8 plugs to see how they look.
But it looks like the coolant / water bridge issue may now be fixed.
as far i know, correct timing is correct timing and has nothing to do with misfires of a cilinder. The spark comes in at the right time ( if dizzy and ignition module are good ) and than you have the rotor,cap , wires,plugs etc…
Don't know if you have headers ?... always interesting to check temperature of each primary…
I have ceramic coated SS round tube headers installed.
That's a good idea to shoot the input branches with an infrared thermometer to see if there are temperature differences on the ones that were previously fouled.
Since the last time I pulled plugs, I've changed all the plug wires and the fuel injectors on those 2 cylinders (#s 5 & 7)
Pete, you do beautiful work. I'm more of the "good enough" type worker. Your are a real perfectionist.
Keep up the great work.
Thanks,
Dave
Thanks Dave. I do that type of work for me, personally, but like that others, like you, appreciate it.
Now the car is trapped for 3 days as I get a new roof put on the house, with trash trailers and work trucks all in the driveway, so I won't have any new info until the weekend. I did look under the car tonight and the floor is still clean so that's a good sign.
i ended with painting the fenders protection with anti gravel paint that hardens a bit.
Tried a carbon look sticker but didn't work as i have there a overlapping from the extensions and rivet heads exposed. ( 928Motorsports parts )
We do not fill that smooth… to much work that can be damaged in a second …. it is a rally car , so function above looks.... but we want it to look good from 10 feet away
Got a chance to drive it pretty hard this morning for combined time of about a half hour. Didn't seem as smooth as it could be on the first half of the drive and at 4k rpm under full boost on one pull my Knocklink light flashed once so I brought it back and timing looked a bit too far advanced (low 30s). I pulled it back about 4 degrees and drove it again and it seemed quite a bit smoother with no knock detected under the same conditions. It pulls very strong under boost and my supercharger belt isn't slipping now until 5 psi on the boost gauge. I have one of Carl's grip pulleys that I'm now going to install. With the original pulley I was getting slip around 3 psi so I removed the pulley and sandblasted the running surface to rough it up a bit and that's what got me to 5 psi. With Carl's grip pulley, it ought to keep rising up to 6 or slightly past.
Before blasting - smooth running surface
After blasting original pulley for more surface grip
928MS Grip Pulley
The great news is no oil is coming out the vent line with the new AOS and no signs of coolant anywhere - the valley is DRY.
My AFR is pretty lean at idle, like 16-17. Under regular driving it's 13.5-14, and under full boost it's at 12-12.5. How important is the AFR at idle where there's no load on the engine. I could make it richer, but then it will be richer everywhere and the #s when driving and when under boost seem good so I'm hesitant to do that.
I also found a diesel performance shop that is going to pop and pattern test the injector set that got contaminated with rubber so I can see if those are any good. If so, I'm probably going to put all of those back in or at least 2 of them in 5 and 7 where I currently have 2 of my old injectors installed. If I replace them all, I'll have them test the other 16 I have so I know which are good and which should be tossed. At what psi should these Bosch CIS injectors pop open and spray fuel.
Seems like I'm pretty close to being able to drive it around with some level of confidence.
The great news is no oil is coming out the vent line with the new AOS and no signs of coolant anywhere - the valley is DRY.
My AFR is pretty lean at idle, like 16-17. Under regular driving it's 13.5-14, and under full boost it's at 12-12.5. How important is the AFR at idle where there's no load on the engine.
This really is great news! If you got that much better pulley bite by just sandblasting your old pulley, the Sur-Grip pulley will do you much better. The sand-blasted pulley shows that improvements are there too be had, but the belt slip will polish that pulley in no time and you will return to your previous supercharger performance. The Sur-Grip process is a tungsten-alloy granular coating that is applied into the vees of the pulleys with a process called Electrofusion. This process creates a true metallurgical bond with very high strength. In addition to increasing the surface friction for the belts, it also increases the surface hardness of the material up to 72Rc, making the pulley itself last longer also.
I'm delighted to hear you have your crankcase breathers running dry again.
The AFR at idle with no load on the engine is not terribly important, but I wouldn't want it to run too much leaner than you are now. As long as it idles well, and the coolant temp remains good, you should be fine. I know some boost users even set their cars up to run a little lean at idle just to clean the plugs because everywhere else it runs rich. No worries.
I could make it richer, but then it will be richer everywhere and the #s when driving and when under boost seem good so I'm hesitant to do that.
Yes, exactly. Tune for proper AFR under boost and load, and idle is what it is. If its smooth, count yourself DONE. I like the 12 to 12.5 under boost, I'm not sure I'd mess with that. If you want to, you could try for 11.6 to 12.1 under boost, and that would help your idle AFR, but that's a pretty adjustment from where you are at on a K-Jet.
One more thing: don't bother adjusting the AFR until after you have swapped in our Sur-Grip pulley. Sounds like you will see some more boost with it - in other words - you do not really know what your AFR is under boost and load just yet.
Put on the pulley, THEN go see what your AFR is....
This really is great news! If you got that much better pulley bite by just sandblasting your old pulley, the Sur-Grip pulley will do you much better. The sand-blasted pulley shows that improvements are there too be had, but the belt slip will polish that pulley in no time and you will return to your previous supercharger performance. The Sur-Grip process is a tungsten-alloy granular coating that is applied into the vees of the pulleys with a process called Electrofusion. This process creates a true metallurgical bond with very high strength. In addition to increasing the surface friction for the belts, it also increases the surface hardness of the material up to 72Rc, making the pulley itself last longer also.
I'm delighted to hear you have your crankcase breathers running dry again.
The AFR at idle with no load on the engine is not terribly important, but I wouldn't want it to run too much leaner than you are now. As long as it idles well, and the coolant temp remains good, you should be fine. I know some boost users even set their cars up to run a little lean at idle just to clean the plugs because everywhere else it runs rich. No worries.
Yes, exactly. Tune for proper AFR under boost and load, and idle is what it is. If its smooth, count yourself DONE. I like the 12 to 12.5 under boost, I'm not sure I'd mess with that. If you want to, you could try for 11.6 to 12.1 under boost, and that would help your idle AFR, but that's a pretty adjustment from where you are at on a K-Jet.
Thanks Carl. I'm going to drive it the way it is for a bit until I can get it on the lift as I need to remove that extra vent line I had running from the front of the car to the rear and I also want to be able to shoot the input branches of the headers with an IR thermometer to see what temps they are. It's also easier to do the SC belt tensioning from underneath than from above so that's when I'll also install the Sur-Grip pulley.
Can you tell me what length the supercharger belt you provide is. With the replacement I'm using from Napa, I'm just about at the end of the tensioning adjustment. The next size shorter they sell is too short to be able to get it onto the crank and supercharger pulleys. The one I'm currently using is this one
There are three holes in your mounting plate for the belt tensioner. Each one represents a different range of adjustment. So, if you are at the end of adjustment, but in the center hole, move the bolt to the third hole to get a new range.
08-29-2019, 05:45 PM
