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I think I have plastic covers somewhere. If you want them, and then if I can find them, they are yours for shipping.
The cam towers always leak. There is oil on them on this engine, however, because they were covered when I turned the engine over after I put oil in the spark plug holes. Mistake.
So they were dry before that. That said, its good insurance.
Plus, as I mentioned, I think you should use your 78/79 cams.
I think I have plastic covers somewhere. If you want them, and then if I can find them, they are yours for shipping.
The cam towers always leak. There is oil on them on this engine, however, because they were covered when I turned the engine over after I put oil in the spark plug holes. Mistake.
So they were dry before that. That said, its good insurance.
Plus, as I mentioned, I think you should use your 78/79 cams.
Brendan,
Yes, if you have unbroken plastic cam timing covers, I'll take them. The only good one I have is outer top left. I need and all the other ones, including inner left and right. Can you email me pictures of the ones you have?
Why do you say to reuse my cams? My plan was to pull the cam towers but not to remove the heads. Do you think there's an issue with the cams?
Yes, if you have unbroken plastic cam timing covers, I'll take them. The only good one I have is outer top left. I need and all the other ones, including inner left and right. Can you email me pictures of the ones you have?
Why do you say to reuse my cams? My plan was to pull the cam towers but not to remove the heads. Do you think there's an issue with the cams?
You don't remove the heads. You don't have to change anything except if you wanted to the cams have higher lift or more duration on the 78/79 cams. And they just are in the cam boxes.
You don't remove the heads. You don't have to change anything except if you wanted to the cams have higher lift or more duration on the 78/79 cams. And they just are in the cam boxes.
Interesting. I didn't know the regular 78/79 cams had higher lift and duration. I knew the Euros were different, but not the ROW versions. If that's the case, that might be worth doing now that you mention it. Do you happen to know the specs for the cams on both versions?
Pulled the Clutch Pack today and washed more parts. Once I get the car back together and drive it with the OEM friction discs, I'll probably put this pair of SPEC friction discs up for sale so someone who needs more aggressive clutch grip can get a deal on them.
You don't remove the heads. You don't have to change anything except if you wanted to the cams have higher lift or more duration on the 78/79 cams. And they just are in the cam boxes.
Found this very interesting thread on that exact subject, with all the cam specifications, so that's a great tip and what I'll plan to do.
I'm guessing this setup is going to make a significant difference. I'll be moving the compression ratio from 8.5:1 to 9.3:1, increasing the displacement slightly from 4.5L to 4.7L and then if I use my '79 cams, combining those changes with increased lift and duration, this might turn out to be a decent HP & torque bump, especially with the supercharger, which I also recently upgraded. I'm getting kind of excited about this whole thing now, though I'm most excited about not having oil and power steering fluid all over my motor and the garage floor.
Semi-retired, as of Feb 1, 2023.
The days of free technical advice are over.
Free consultations will no longer be available.
Will still be in the shop, isolated and exclusively working on project cars, developmental work and products, engines and transmissions.
Have fun with your 928's people!
I have instructions that have me dropping the steering rack to access the motor mount bolts, but those bolts look like they're just securing this bracket that is then secured to the motor by 4 bolts - 2 on each side.
Can I just undo these 4 bolts to free the motor and not mess with the sway bar or steering rack?
To pull the engine, yes. That's how I removed and installed my S4 engine. Not sure on the 16 valve engines, but on the 32 valve after you remove the bell housing to engine bolts, you loosen the 2 transaxle mount bolts and slide it back about 1/2" or so and it gives you more room to get the engine loose from the bell housing and remove the engine.
I have instructions that have me dropping the steering rack to access the motor mount bolts, but those bolts look like they're just securing this bracket that is then secured to the motor by 4 bolts - 2 on each side.
Can I just undo these 4 bolts to free the motor and not mess with the sway bar or steering rack?
Aren't there 4 bolts(2 long and 2 short)for each motor mount on each side? 8 total bolts. Or is that later model motors mounts only?
Last edited by soontobered84; 04-16-2019 at 12:06 AM.
Reason: remove pic
04-12-2019, 03:31 PM
