John Struthers

Wheels are off, calipers are off.
How do I get the cap off to inspect/grease the bearings ?
What is that single machined notch/groove in the hub collar?
Tia

Lizard928

you have to pull off the cap on the end and you will see the lock bolt that holds the hub on the spindle undo and it all falls apart

Gretch

Tap a screwdriver in between the cap and the hub edge and twist a bit to start the cap.........

MikeN

I gently use a medium cold chisel to tap the cap off. Put the point between the hub and the ridge of the cap......work around in small amounts.

The slot in the hub collar is to access the allen head bolt that actually holds the wheel bearing(s) in place.

Wild Bill

Although I have not yet attempted this, I read a post about placing an appropriately sized (2.25"?) u-bolt muffler clamp in the dust cap groove to give you something more substantial to lever against. Sounds like a cheap solution that should work well.

Dozman

John I believe you must put on your magical red slipper's and tap them three times and say...

Just kidding, the exhaust clamp works well for me.

borland

John,

If you remove the rotor, removing the cap will be much easier. A block of wood against the lip and rubber mallet is all that is required.

The recess your refering to allow for inserting the cotter key.

Steve J.

I got this galvanized fence post clamp at Home Depot. It's just the right size to clamp around the grease cap and provides a lip to pry off the cap.

GlenL

Large channel locks will help get it off. (to each his own!)

There's a little divot on the hub that allows access to the cap screw in the clamp that holds the whole mess on.

UKKid35

I was used to cars with hex nuts and split pins, the allen key clamp bolt is just gorgeous in comparison, allowing very fine adjustment of the bearing.

John Struthers

Thanks to all,
I have everything on hand including the galvanized post clamp when I tore down the critter fence-thanks Steve.
Wild Bill and Doz,
Oddly, you guy's prompted me. Every now and again I help out the Highway sign crews and Invariably bring home hardware...like...2", 2 1/2". and 3" pipe clamps for hanging signs.
Mike and Gretch I'm all for the tapping but that pup did not budge. The caps look brand new and seal is so good I can't see a seam....
Glen,
If you see my son, Zack, tell him I'm looking for the telescoping magnets and the large channel locks
Borland,
Good Idea. Now about those rotors...
Everyone,
Yeah, I need those Pubs/Books/Manuals...maybe someday.
So, a heartfelt "thanks again"

Ed Scherer

Earlier thread on this topic (my related comments were the last one on that thread)

John Struthers

Ed,
Seeking forgiveness I must have missed a few days of the list over the holidays'
ALWAYS Check the archives!
Are those welders lock clamp pliers?

Ed Scherer

Hey, it wasn't a flame! It's not like I haven't asked a few questions that may have been in the archives before.

Yeah, I think they're welders clamps.

BTW, if you want to, you can always order the "real tool" (#9165) from Baum Tools.



They quoted me $48.75. I passed.

Actually, Baum does carry a lot of the specialized tools mentioned in the FSM that I thought would be pretty hard to come by, like the #9135 "headlight washer adjuster" ($32.20).



I've always wondered whether that tool would really budge my headlight washers, which are frozen in a direction that would probably propel the washer fluid into an adjacent lane. Of course I've never even tried to use them before (where's the switch?), but one can get kind of **** about these things...

John Struthers

Ed,
Didn't take it as a flame.
Point of fact, I'm almost like Randy on some days refering folks to the archives and the Greg Nichols site. So it was more of what's good for the Goose is good for the Gander sort of thing.
But hey, that $48.00 cap type, three screw design, Baum tool got me thinking.
The sign crew has been replacing all city and county adjacent stop and street signs.
Guess what? All the sign supports(poles) are 2 1/2 - 3 inches in diameter and are held to the pole with three tapered 1/4 - 3/8 inch screws, on top of the cap is a slotted -for the street sign- rail. Kind of a 'T' handle, whole thing is heavy cast and milled. I'll see how many they have thrown away. If it works ... I'll mail you one, gratis of course. For a net savings of? Serendipity strikes again.