Karl_W944

So if you have the turn the key many times to get the car to even crank, what could be the cause?

This started happening about 2-3 weeks ago. I just replaced my 7 year-old battery thinking that would solve that problem. It didn't.

Browar

If there is just click noise then You have to check solenoid at starter and/or wiring harness.

Karl_W944

I'll check after work, but if I turn the key to crank the engine, there is no sound. I have to try 5-10 times to get it to crank.

mazdaverx7

Check the ground cable and check the trigger wire on the starter for corrosion. The ignition switch is another possible cause of a no crank symptom.

thomasmryan

doors left open working on the handles + 7 year old battery = new battery. check your load capacity if you can

SloMo228

So nothing at all happens the first few times you try the key? Not even the starter solenoid clicking? And then when it finally does work, it starts up as if nothing was wrong? If that's the case, I'd be looking at the ignition switch. They're not expensive and not that hard to replace, either. They can get kind of flaky with age and use.

Karl_W944

So after breaking down upon arrival to a concours event this past weekend, I've ordered a new ignition switch to see if this solves my recent issues.



I'll be insalling it after work, but I'm preparing myself for all of the fun I'm gonna have removing everything forward of the gauges to take out the old switch.

Butters944

I replaced my ignition switch, IIRC you don't need to remove anything but the steering wheel and trim / turn signal stalk. Really easy, I did it 5 years ago. It's a common failure, mine had all kinds of broken plastic bits in it. My car's symptoms were the radio turning on and off with the slightest jiggle of the key. Hope it fixes your problems.

odonnell

Remove ground cable from battery, remove steering wheel and the trim around the stalks

Remove 3x screws and slide off the stalk assembly. If you're careful you don't need to unclip the wiring.

Remove the allen bolt that holds on the ignition lock around the steering shaft and slide off the black plastic sleeve (it has 3 notches around it for leverage)

Put key in the ignition and turn to run position and you should be able to slide off the lock assembly

There is one screw that holds in the ignition switch, replace and reassemble

Karl_W944

Finally got some time to put in my new ignition switch and low and behold, it fires right up!!

Amazing what a $5 part can do to affect this car.

Now, to fix my window switches.

BoulderGeek

That is some ++POSITIVE++ news!

I was suspecting starter solenoid, as well, after several motorcycles.

Good on ya for resolving it! Remember this situation for a great answer to job interview questions about methodical troubleshooting and following through to an under budget solution.

odonnell

Being serious, I can't stress how much owning an old Porsche makes you a stand out when older guys are interviewing you for an engineering position. It isn't enough any more to just be book smart.

Karl_W944

I'm trying to change out my Alternator belt and turnbuckle tensioner. I'm removing the turnbuckle tensioner because it snapped at the farthest driver side end and is apparently only being held in place with the tension on the belt.

I have a new one but I have no idea on how to take the old one out??

Please tell me if this sounds right:

1. Spray the crap out of the bolts holding it in place with PB Blaster
2. Use two 17mm wrenches and turn them which way to loosen the tensioner?? I don't know which way to turn it to loosen, towards the front or the rear of the car, and are they supposed to be turn opposite of each other??
3. Put new one in, and reverse 1 and 2.

thomasmryan

Pivot bolt first and last.

Karl_W944

I'm probably the least practical person on this forum...

Which and where is the pivot bolt?