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Thank you guys, I will have to re-read your comments so I can get a better understanding of what you mean.
V2, I don't agree that cycling back crankcase gases back to the intake is the best place for them power-wise, particularly in high rpm/low vacuum situations. It is preferably to always have a true vacuum, and so I would like to experiment with exhaust siphoning or an electric pump.
What I am concerned about is if this addition would be negative for the function of the MAP sensor, and if so, should I then choose MAF instead?
Thank you guys, I will have to re-read your comments so I can get a better understanding of what you mean.
V2, I don't agree that cycling back crankcase gases back to the intake is the best place for them power-wise, particularly in high rpm/low vacuum situations. It is preferably to always have a true vacuum, and so I would like to experiment with exhaust siphoning or an electric pump.
What I am concerned about is if this addition would be negative for the function of the MAP sensor, and if so, should I then choose MAF instead?
Thank you.
I've heard that the biggest problem with crankcase gasses is that the effective octane of the intake charge is lowered, so you have to run less timing. That's why people install catch cans. People with a stock tuned or even a chipped 944 won't have to worry unless there's a PCV malfunction and it's pissing oil in there.
Re: cc gasses and MAP... not sure, I can tell you that my setup has the PCV functioning, goes into the J-tube before the MAP sensor. In reality as long as you have good resolution from your MAP sensor across the rev range (use a GM 1 bar sensor), you will zero problems because it's just tuning the VE table after that regardless. With the right VE table, which you can change, the car will run as good as a MAF tune or better. MAF is great but only if you have the transfer function for the MAF. Plus, the MAF generally measures before the PCV.
Also (not from the oily engine on the bench) are 4 16v piston in desperate need for help.
They must have all sat in a pail of water for 5 years. The rings are seized with rust terribly. 1 Piston is broken.
As an experimental challenge to "EVAPO-RUST" I will let these pistons sit for several days. Will keep you posted.
I think it will remove the rust well I've seen it done to car sheet metal that was way worse looking than those pistons. Like Spender said I'd find a different set of pistons still though, but that's me.
Yesturday ***** Freaky Freestyles got him self some BRAND NEW RUBBER. Its the first time he hasn't been using old rubber. It snowed here yesturday. I pulled the trigger.
And bigger news: He got a BATH!
Costco tire guys are like "You're going to drive that in the winter?"
I actually was considering studded but they don't sell studded for some reason.
Crappy camera strikes again. HOLY SMOKES... I was shocked to find both rear outer brake pads are 1/3rd thickness of the inner rear pads. I will repair before driving anymore. IS THIS NORMAL?
The old 2.4 that was in the long hoods came in T, E and S states of tune with different volume stacks and butterflies to match the cam profile of each motor...the ram effect at resonance frequency if you will.
If you do go mega or micro, it would be cool to leave the injector at the intake/head flange and then add another injector boss the cylinder volume up the runner for high rpm....then both with a shorter duty cycle at WOT.
If you do go mega or micro, it would be cool to leave the injector at the intake/head flange and then add another injector boss the cylinder volume up the runner for high rpm....then both with a shorter duty cycle at WOT.
^ Staged injectors are good, if you have a boosted car. Sometimes you need big injectors for high boost/high RPM but at idle, they suck because of pulse width resolution. You can get around that by having staged injectors... 4 injectors (bike injectors maybe?) idle the car and when you transition into higher load, the big injectors take over. MS can do it, but there's no reason to on an NA car.
10-03-2015, 10:48 AM
